Jwags

UV doesn't cure epoxy, heat does. The shorter drying time you noticed was due to heat. Most epoxy drying times are listed for 70 degrees. As a general rule of thumb, for every 20 degrees above 70 that you raise the temp, you cut the drying time in half. So if your lures take 8 hours to dry at 70 degrees, they will dry in 4 hours at 90 degrees. jeremy

Two things. 1. Invest in an automatic epoxy mixer. They are about $25 and are worth their weight in gold. Hardly any bubbles! Pretty sure Acid Rod has them. 2. Be careful in applying heat to pop bubbles in Etex. It works well if you apply thin coats. Beware if you've applied a heavy coat (not recommended anyway) because you will end up with a runny mess. Blowing through a straw will also pop bubbles well. jeremy

I think it's a combination of things that is making the lure run more shallow. Two different size lures with the same lip size and angle probably won't run the same depth- I'm not an expert but that's been my experience so far. jeremy

I'm thinking the same thing. jeremy

There are several different spiral wraps. My personal favorite is the simple spiral. Set your rod up like you normally would with the guides all on top. Leave the butt guide in place and switch the rest of the guides 180 degrees to the bottom of the blank like a spinning rod. Next, place your bumper guide (usually a small single foot guide like a size 6) at 90 degrees halfway between the butt guide and the second guide. Your end result is the butt guide at 0, the bumper at 90, and the 2nd guide at 180. Tape the guides on the blank and mount your reel and do some testing to make sure the line doesn't touch the blank during the transition to the bottom. You'll also want to make sure that your line doesn't stack to one side of your spool so take several practice casts. If it does, offset your butt guide slightly to make sure the line is coming onto the spool from 0 degrees, not 4 or 5 degrees. I think you'll find that your casting distance won't be affected by a spiral wrap. jeremy

Mattman, I agree. I don't use spacing charts either. You can't beat doing your own static test to make sure guide spacing is correct. Leeshelton, if you use a spiral wrap, you'll need fewer guides which will result in less weight and greater sensitivity in the rod tip. I did a simple spiral on my LGM102XH and I love it. I use it to throw 4oz crankbaits to muskies and it casts like a dream. Spirals are a tough sell to most people but if you can get one in their hands, most guys are sold. jeremy

Dude, that's alot of info to digest! LOL I've been using a rotissarie motor for a couple of years and it does well for me. It turns at 2rpm with a 14" wheel. I can load 8 large muskie cranks on it at once. I'd like to get a dc motor set up with a rheostat (spelling?) so that I can adjust the speed. I'm also building a drying box this weekend with a light on a dimmer to control temp. jeremy

Could you give some more info? What type of rod are you building and what guides are you using? Not all micros are the same. Depending on what size and brand you have they can be very different. If you are building a spinning rod, you won't need to change your spacing. If you're building a casting rod, you'll most likely need more guides unless you use a spiral wrap. The best way to find out is to do a static test. Let the blank tell you how many and where to put them. jeremy

Are you using the CCS? jeremy

No, Bullard Int. doesn't do business with Mudhole. I get mine from Karen at Bingham Enterprises-(913) 897-6657. Her prices are usually the best on all rod building components. jeremy

I stand corrected, Loomis rods are still built in WA. When Shimano bought them there were rumors of them moving to China and I got my wires crossed. jeremy

Which is better, Ford or Chevy? LOL My best advice is for you to get your hands on one of each and test them for yourself. I doubt that you'll be able to tell the difference. My personal preference is for St Croix. They are less expensive than the Loomis and they are made in the US- Loomis is overseas. jeremy

I used to use FC but I recently switched to Diamond II from Bullard International. It is the bomb! It levels better than anything I've seen and it has superior clarity. Order a small batch and give it a try. jeremy

Fishwhittler, You can eliminate bubbles in your epoxy by using an automatic mixer. Acidrod carries them. Also, be careful heating epoxy, you will rapidly decrease the cure time which will make it harder to get your bubbles out when you apply it to your lures. I just switched to Diamond II from Bullard International and I love it. (I had been using Etex) It is also a guide wrap epoxy for rod building. It gets super hard, is very clear, and doesn't yellow as much or as quickly as the other epoxies. It is considered a medium build. jeremy

I would stick with a measuring syringe instead of weighing epoxy. The two parts do not weight the same! That is why epoxy manufacturers measure by volume, not weight. jeremy

Mark, I definitely think that trying the syringes is a good idea. You could use just a small amount to test it out. If it doesn't work, no big loss. If it does work then you have a great idea! jeremy

If you like using finish epoxy for rod wraps, try Diamond 2 by Bullard Int. It stays super clear and is very hard! I'm using it on some of my muskie lures and I've been very pleased so far. It does take 6 days to fully cure, but it's worth the wait! jeremy

I know I saw unpainted Wake Shad bodies somewhere but now I can't find them. Can someone help me please?!? thanks, jeremy

Vince Flexcoat sells syringes with 3ml or 12ml volumes. The have graduated marks and make accurate measuring a piece of cake. I use Etex and I just drilled holes in the caps and leave the syringes in the caps when not in use. Its very easy to do and makes for a great way to not lose your syringes! There is also a company that makes special caps that hold syringes (for rodbuilding) and they fit the Etex bottles. I'm not sure what size the bottles of Devcon are but they may work for you. I think the company is Backlash Tools. jeremy