Jwags
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Everything posted by Jwags
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Mark, The Rookie is right. Most guys are building stuff that is way overkill. (LOL Matt, I'm still picturing you doing figure 8's in roller skates holding on for dear life to a fishing rod!!!!) I use .092" by 1.5" stainless eye screws. I mainly fish rivers and I can tell you that when I get snagged, I can drag the 14' flatbottom around the river to whereever I'm snagged- gear, coolers, and fishing buddy included. My lures are made of poplar and maple. If those eye screws were going to pull out, they would have done it by now! jeremy
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BassChamp, Follow Vodkaman's advice and you'll have no problems. jeremy
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You're not alone. It took me a bunch of coats of propionate to get a smooth coating on my oaklanks. A better way is to use E-tex. Get it at Michael's with a 50% off coupon at @ $16. jeremy
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Here's some pics of my first two muskie lures. They are both shallow divers and have a nice wide wobble to them. The 6" (2.25oz) has some great action as a wake bait when reeled at a slower pace but it dives to about 2-3 feet on a normal retrieve. The 8" (2.75oz) dives to about 4-5 feet on a normal retrieve. They are poplar with a propionate sealer, createx paints, and 3 coats of e-tex (I'm thinking of adding two more coats of e-tex). They have irridescent white sides (fine scale pattern on the 6" if you look closely), silver metallic scale on the back and a blue/green/black pearl head. I know it's a strange color combo, but I have had alot of success on white lately with the trout and bass. I painted a 2" Pin's Minnow in this exact pattern and the trout had been killing it...until I lost it. I was test casting them in my pond on Saturday and I caught two nice chain pickerel on the 6"- one was 30" and the other was 25". Hopefully the river muskies around here will like them just as much! They run true at high speed and show no signs of blowing out. Thanks to everyone on TU for all of their advice and willingness to share their wisdom with me.
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Here's some pics of my first two muskie lures. They are both shallow divers and have a nice wide wobble to them. The 6" (2.25oz) has some great action as a wake bait when reeled at a slower pace but it dives to about 2-3 feet on a normal retrieve. The 8" (2.75oz) dives to about 4-5 feet on a normal retrieve. They are poplar with a propionate sealer, createx paints, and 3 coats of e-tex (I'm thinking of adding two more coats of e-tex). They have irridescent white sides (fine scale pattern on the 6" if you look closely), silver metallic scale on the back and a blue/green/black pearl head. I know it's a strange color combo, but I have had alot of success on white lately with the trout and bass. I painted a 2" Pin's Minnow in this exact pattern and the trout had been killing it...until I lost it. I was test casting them in my pond on Saturday and I caught two nice chain pickerel on the 6"- one was 30" and the other was 25". Hopefully the river muskies around here will like them just as much! They run true at high speed and show no signs of blowing out. Thanks to everyone on TU for all of their advice and willingness to share their wisdom with me.
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Here's some pics of my first two muskie lures. They are both shallow divers and have a nice wide wobble to them. The 6" (2.25oz) has some great action as a wake bait when reeled at a slower pace but it dives to about 2-3 feet on a normal retrieve. The 8" (2.75oz) dives to about 4-5 feet on a normal retrieve. They are poplar with a propionate sealer, createx paints, and 3 coats of e-tex (I'm thinking of adding two more coats of e-tex). They have irridescent white sides (fine scale pattern on the 6" if you look closely), silver metallic scale on the back and a blue/green/black pearl head. I know it's a strange color combo, but I have had alot of success on white lately with the trout and bass. I painted a 2" Pin's Minnow in this exact pattern and the trout had been killing it...until I lost it. I was test casting them in my pond on Saturday and I caught two nice chain pickerel on the 6"- one was 30" and the other was 25". Hopefully the river muskies around here will like them just as much! They run true at high speed and show no signs of blowing out. Thanks to everyone on TU for all of their advice and willingness to share their wisdom with me.
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JC, Give etex a try. I have just started using it and it has been easy and problem free for me. It's much easier to brush on than D2T and it gives a nice deep, glossy finish. You will need a lure turner, but they are easily made from a grill rotisserie motor. Do a search and you will find plans on here. If you have a Michael's nearby, you can use their 50% off coupon to buy it. There are some much more experienced lure builders on here than me, see what some others recommend. If you do try etex, I would recomment buying some of the measuring syringes that Flex-Coat makes. They make measuring exact amounts very easy. Hope I was of some help, jeremy
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I know that many of you have a personal preference about when to glue in the diving lip during the building process. My question is for those who glue the lip in towards the end of the process after painting the lure. Do you glue it in before or after clearing the bait? If before, what is a good method to keep the clear from running all over the bill? If you tape it off, do you wait for the clear to set a bit before removing the tape? (sorry for so many questions) I currently have two muskie cranks on the dryer right now. I glued in the lips before I sealed them so the lips have been on during the painting and clearing process. I'm new to this so I've managed to get some clear on the bills and it just doesn't look right. These lures are for me so I don't mind so much, but I'm going to make some for friends in the future and I need to make sure I get this right. thanks, jeremy
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@bbduc, Wow, that thing swims like a- well, a fish! Awesome looking bait. I've been kicking around the idea of a swimbait for awhile and I'm gonna give it a try soon. Thanks for sharing your trials and successes with this bait, I'm sure you have helped many of us to grasp a better understanding of what is needed it get a swimbait to swim. Also, I loved your song choice for the video, it took me back... jeremy
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I'm going to go with a couple of natural patterns: a carp and ottawa sucker (came from woodieb8:yay:). However, I also have a special place in my heart for bright colors so I'll probably do a firetiger or orange tiger as well. Pearl copper and yellow sounds good. I've done several bass baits in those colors and the bass obsolutely hammer them! Thanks again for all of the help guys, jeremy
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Thanks for the help guys. Time to go mix some paint! jeremy
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I'm painting up some lures for a buddy of mine who fishes for muskies on the Wisconsin River. What colors are best for up there? thanks jeremy
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Milia, I also started out with a scroll saw and progressed to a band saw. A scroll saw can give you great practice but there is nothing like a band saw. The band saw I use is junk and problematic, but it is still much better than the scroll saw! If you started out and had no problems, you would think that this is too easy. I'm new to lure building myself and I have tons of things go wrong. I was routering some lures this week and two of them cracked because I clamped them too tight. Now I just have shorter lures! You will learn the most from your failures, not successes. As long as you have problems, you are learning. jeremy
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@PAVABill Well said. I appreciate you taking the time to put everyone's focus back where it should be- helping our fellow lure builders to build better lures and catch more fish! @Mr. Poulson I second your nomination. jeremy
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I just laughed so hard I almost pooped my pants!!
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Mudhole (mudhole.com) and Janns (jannsnetcraft.com) both have what you need. Stamina Inc also has hardware and a new website. you can find them at Products Lure Parts Online jeremy
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diemai, Those are some sweet videos, I always find it fascinating to watch others lure makers at work. Does anyone know what kind of tool he is using to cut the slot in for the through-wire? I'm going to be building some through wire baits soon and that looks like a good idea to me! I guess I could use a thin hacksaw blade or a skill saw blade. Anyone have any other ideas? diemai, thanks again for the inspiring videos. jeremy
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Thanks, good to know. I was wondering if I should wrap the female end just to make sure I don't get a split. I think I will. jeremy