Fatman

This is the Conranch Gold Badger http://www.conranch.com/viewin/c_gb_cp.jpg This is the Conranch Silver Badger http://www.conranch.com/viewin/c_sb_cp.jpg Like I said before send him the link of the fly you listed above and ask him if he has the same, make sure to tell him what size range you're looking for but it's probably going to be a cape. Fatman

MT beat me too it. check out the Conranch site and if you don't see exactly what you're looking for email Denny or Liz and have him send you some photo's of what he has. He's great to deal with and has very fair prices for some great hackle. I've been dealing with him for about 3 years now and haven't been disappointed yet. Fatman

Hawn, Yeah I've already checked with Lee Precision Pots as I have 2 of the Production Pot IV's. There answer to me was. "The Pots should not be used for zinc,copper, silver, gold , aluminum, pewter or brass." and to the mix ration for bismuth tin they answered: "The ratio of Bismuth to Tin would be better if it were closer to 50-50 or slightly more Tin than Bismuth." but I'm looking at that ration as being WAY lighter than the 60 bis/40 tin. I'm gonna give the stuff a try as I'm really only using it for split shot/small sinkers and to try on a few jigs. I don't powder paint alot anymore as I still use the old testor's paint then a clear coat of epoxy. Couple pounds can't hurt (well maybe) but I'd really like to only carry one box everywhere I go. Fatman

Hawnjigs, Not doing anything yet with R92!! Trying to find the best replacement for my lead, and not liking the cost. I like the idea of the 60 bis/40 tin but I don't like the fact that it doesn't weigh the same as the lead. I've read on here where someone was using lead free pewter, but according to Lee (Production Pot) they recommend that you don't use that in their pot. Right now I can use lead jigs, sinkers 1/2 oz and over. Split shot, small sinkers have to be non-lead. I'd like to go green so that no matter where I go I can carry one box of tackle and not worry about it. Fatman

This is a reply I got back from a company that does Bismuth/Tin and has since switched from that. Hope it helps explain a few things. Bismuth /tin alloys if made from a powder-contain both lead and cadmium (toxic) materials in the binding processes. The companies will list them as "lead-free" but it is in there, and if you obtain the formulas they use to create the alloys, you'll see it for yourself. Your clue will always be an odd ingot size: e.g. 1.24 lb ingot (not 1.0lb, nor 1.25lb but 1.24lb)- whicjh makes it very difficult to identify the toxic metals used. You'll want to stick with companies that use ingots, not powdered metals, to produce the alloy you desire (lessons learned). You would want to use the 58/42 ratio for a better casting. However over the past five years the use of Bismuth has now become a "buzz" (Iremember when you had to explain this for over an hour to people) and the price has gone through the roof; and is still on a weekly, sometimes daily, increase. We've been a non-lead alternative caster for over five years now- and I don't even want to mess with Bismuth anymore. The only "good" thing left about it - do to pricing-is that it has 95% of lead's density. We have been using an excellent casting alloy called R-92; 92% tin and 8% antimony. It has excellent casting fluidity, a low melting point (466 degrees); however it has approx. a 65-70% density of lead. So you have to specify the SIZE of the mold, not the WEIGHT. R-92 has about 1/3 the price of bismuth/tin alloys (10.00lb compared to 30.00 plus lb) If you want a bit of "hammer-ability to your molds, use A/C (90%tin,8%antimony,2% copper) this has malabilty. The plus to a weight conscious angler is you can produce a larger head size (presentation) at the weight of a smaller one. But, just like bismuth years ago, people are slow to respond. Habits are hard to change (which is why they say you should make good ones in the first place); and people associate size with weight. You'll even find this with bismuth, but at a lessor scale. We make a 1/24th ballhead with sunken side eye holes, that once its painted you'd swear it is a 1/8 or better; but it's not! I had to start putting a picture of the head on the packaging to demonstrate. There are a lot of American Alloy companies that you can "play" off each other to knock off a few pennies a pound; but we recommend contacting ROTOMETALS, Inc out of San Francisco. Very reputable, nice folks, good prices and they'll custom-make your alloy. Meaning you can decide if you want 58 bismuth/42 tin OR 62 tin/38 bismuth or whatever. They'll make the ingots the size of your melter/furnace (no extra charge) and they can usually ship within 24-48 hours. They are on the web or try 1.866.768.6638. They are good people in a cut-throat business (but what isn't anymore?). Hope this was of some help to you. We wish you the best in your endeavours and feel free to stay in touch anytime. Fatman

check at J Stockard JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building Supplies, Fly Tying Materials great service and good prices. If you don't see what your looking for call them. Another place you can try is Hook and Hackle Company Hook & Hackle Fly Fishing Tackle, Fly Fishing Supplies, Fly Tying Supplies and Fly Rod Building Supplies Fatman

Do any of you guys make them for sale???? Fatman

Instead of the barrel swivel I think i'd use the regular crane swivel and instead of a split ring get a small Duo Lock snap size 0 or 1 and attach the blade to that. There's an ebay store by the name of Maul Sales that sells the duo lock snaps by the thousand at a reasonable price. The only real problem I see is that in order to use a salt water style hook (O'shanessy spelling I know) you'd have to alter the mold to allow it to accept the larger wire of the larger wire hook. Other than that it looks really good. Fatman

As was stated go to Fly Anglers OnLine, Your Complete Internet Flyfishing Resource. on the left hand side of the screen click on fly tying and take the online tying course for beginners. Everything is step by step and they all catch fish. Fatman

Mylar tubing looking that small you're looking at either 6/0 or 8/0 Uni thread in what ever color you're tying with. with the size of your jighead I'm guessing 1/16 or 1/32nd I'd use the 8/0. Keeps the bulkiness down. Fatman

You can use J. Stockard JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building Supplies, Fly Tying Materials their pretty good. Living in Iowa with all that hunting check with your buddies and get all the tail feathers you can and a few skins, and use a few for trading material. Don't know if you have partridge or similar type bird out there but these skins ain't cheap to buy. Learn how to scrape the fat and guts and clean and wash the skins and borax them till dry and you'd have more material for use and trading. For other furs and feathers you can try Moscow Hide and Fur hideandfur.com - Moscow Hide and Fur Coffin Creek Fur Fly Tying Furs, Home of Coffins Creek Furs - We Buy, Sell, and Process Fly Tying Furs and Feathers There's lots of places but hang out at a few tying boards and you'll pick up lot's of them. When you get to buying hackle and are shocked at the price of Whiting try Conranch Hackle Conranch Fly Tying Hackle and if you're not sure what hackle you need call Denny the owner and tell him what you're tying and he'll tell you what you need. Fatman

Does anyone know what gauge wire Mepps uses on their spinners??? I use .026 and it still doesn't seem as stiff as the Mepss spinners. Mine work fine but I have bent a few wires on larger fish. Fatman

Dutchman, Save yourself the time and money of having to replace materials and get the Punisher pack for around $30. You won't be disappointed. Fatman

Try either Moscow Hide and Fur hideandfur.com - Moscow Hide and Fur or Coffin Creek Fur Fly Tying Furs, Home of Coffins Creek Furs - We Buy, Sell, and Process Fly Tying Furs and Feathers If you don't see it email and ask they don't always have the sites updated daily. Fatman

I got plenty of invites to give away for anyone who wants Gmail. Fatman

It's a great little tool for starting out. I've had mine for about 10 years and it works great. It DOES take practice to get the eyes perfectly round but it's just a practice thing. Make SURE you have it attached tightly to your bench, or you'll be in a world of hurt when a piece of wire smacks your hand. Theres a heavy piece of wire that looks like a eyelet with a long shaft PAINT IT RED OR WHATEVER COLOR YOU WANT, DON"T LOSE IT!!!!!! This is called the winding mandrel and you use it to make wire springs for spinners you want to open and close. When making these and you start winding use heavy duty pliers to hold the wire and DON'T Let Go it does hurt. Use the book that comes with the tool and follow the directions, it will help you move from one task to another. Master each step and the tool will really help you out. It's nice to not have to worry about losing a spinner when all you have to do is reach in the box and get another one. Initial cost of body parts will set you back a bit as they aren't cheap. Hope this helps. Fatman

Well several folks asked about tutorials on tying bucktail jigs and I knew I'd seen it on a site I visit. Well I found it, it's ok but not great but gives alot more than I've found elsewhere. How to Tie a Smallmouth Bass Jig, Video - Fly Fish Ohio Enjoy, Fatman

Try to find a book by Ken Oberect (spelling???) titled Anglers guide to jigs and jigging. He has a few chapters on tying jigs. FAOL is a great course by the late Al Campbell. Any fly you can tie you can tie on a jig head. If it don't look good because of the collar cut the collar off it or buy jigs without. Fatman

I've got the Do-It Pony head mold ass't sizes and I had the same problem. I mainly use tire weight lead and I found that I had to make a bunch of pours without the hooks and swivels to really get the mold heated up. I agree with the others that you do need to have a tilt to the mold when pouring so the lead doesn't clog the sprue opening. Fatman

Well I can give you three tries. Look in your local phone book for taxidermy shops and call them and explain what your looking for you'd be surprised at what they have for trim pieces. Second try Moscow Hide and fur http://www.hideandfur.com/ if you don't find what you're looking for on the site call them and tell them what you're looking for. Third you can try Coffin Creek Furs http://www.flytyingfurs.com/ I don't see it on the site but you can call and ask. Other than that check out some of the bulletin boards and ask on them if anyone has some. Hope this helps. Fatman

Do a search on ebay with your thread title and you'll get about 10 auctions. Fatman

Welcome aboard. Just wait till the obsession hits then you're in trouble LOL. Fatman

I got sick of the tin foil so I'm still painting mine by brush and then epoxy coating. I'm all ears for something better. Fatman

Viper, Thanks, I'll have to pull out my mold box and make a list. Fatman

I read that tip about holding them out the window of your car in Bass Master magazine and yes be very carefull as you can wear them out quickly in the wind.