Jump to content

Fatman

TU Member
  • Posts

    740
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Fatman

  1. At least they did something, but not near enough Should of kicked the ******* off of welfare!!! and banned him from fishing and hunting for life! Should of confiscated the boat too!
  2. Overtying a treble is easy to do - if you cut your own zonker strips and make them thinner you can do them on trebles. I've got some soft tanned squirrel skins that I'm going to cut and put on trebles. Eagle Claw 959 G laser 3x strength, Platinum Black Eagle Claw EL374BP lazer 2X strong, Platinum Black and I still like the old Eagle Claw 3551 round bend and I've never lost a fish on any of them. Like Limp said check the sales at Capt hooks
  3. Ryan - since my previous posting I tried a new method! This started at 930am in the morning. I got a buddy on one of my fly tying boards who used to do commercial dyeing and he told me dyeing pieces of the pelt and keeping them soft depends A LOT on how they were tanned (chrome tanned is the best). So I pulled out the dye and did a cold dye (temp of the dye only 80 degrees) on a piece of it and a piece of the tail. 9 hours later and I've got the dye jobs done. Did a piece of the body hair and a chunk of the tail - I did find that it's easier to dye with the tail IN but it still worked just have to be careful when you comb it out. Tail drying and initial brushing Tail all dried and brushed Body piece drying and I'm stretching it as it drys, been doing it every 15 mins and so far its still flexible and the holes were there when I started. Hair all combed out nice and it's dry, just waiting for next round of stretching So far so good but till the hide is completely dry is the last step and that it stays soft! More to follow when it's done either way! Conclusion: Well the hide is still flexible but it's not as soft as it was when I started and I found I missed a step by not putting hair conditioner through it and re-rinsing after the dye job. Both Pieces all totally dried Cut up into cross-cut Zonker strips and what was left cut into straight cut zonkers All bagged and tagged
  4. Told my nephew to hold onto all the jigs painted and unpainted I gave him and I get them the next time we went to visit. I've got to start pulling out all my docs and graphs that I've collected over the years on this because it's just plain BS what the so-called biologists have published. I've actually started to wonder if the real culprits behind the Lead Ban is the Tackle Manufacturers - everyone gives up our so called "cottage industry tackle makers" (that's in the original report by the way) and they start really raking in money!!!
  5. If you're planning on dyeing them so that you can cut zonker strips DON"T as the hide part will harden up. Feathers, bucktail, hackle and some polar bear and fox I dyed came out great, but to cut rabbit hide into zonkers it hasn't worked yet!! I've gone from easter egg dye, to kool-aid, then RIT then Veniards and Also fly Dye from Anglers Workshop. They all work great. If you're looking for flourescent dye's look at the Veniards or the Fly Dye from Anglers. They work great!!!!
  6. This is a PearlEx mica powder - Solar Gold that you mix with clear powder paint in Gold, cures just like other powder paint.
  7. As the site above only posted certain colors these were the only ones I could comment on: 1. Blue Chartruse 2. Lemon-Lime (Top Half/Bottom Half) yellow chartreuse base with green chartreuse top 3. Pink Watermelon hot fl. pink base with cover coat of ruby red slipper 4. Purple Antifreeze Junebug base with tapped on clear with green glitter 5. Purple Ice pearl pepper base coat with purple tapped on top 6. Glow Dirty Snow 7. Atomic Monkey Puke 8. New Orleans satin black with tapped on silver irridescent and green glitter
  8. You talking just poured?? LOL the way the last couple of months have gone probably not!!
  9. Earlier posts I finally got the old Silver Buddy copy mold and Erie Dearie style molds back!! (I know I was DUMB!!! for ever letting them go) but had some extra cash and bought a 1000 wires for the Erie's (Mustang Wire had an overrun and I got a good deal) and 400 of the blade blanks for the Silver Buddy copy. I ran costs through 5 places and Barlows came up the best. Now I just got to get off my butt and get pouring!!!!!!!!!!
  10. That looks like a walking sinker on that hook!!!
  11. Tungsten worm weights?? Up to 1 1/2oz. http://www.conquistadortackle.com/ConquestTungstenPages/TungstenBullets.html or x2 with Toad - Never seen any brass ones that big.
  12. Never had that problem - wondering if you got the white too hot and maybe scorched it a little. This is some I've done and no orange color on it. No undercoat, base coated the whole jig in chartreuse and then tapped the pink over the top. Then switched around with chartreuse on bottom and pink tapped on top Chartreuse is from Janns and the hot pink is from Rosy's.
  13. For me the first pic there's way to much powder in the cup. Course I don't know what size beds you're using. Powder that high and getting it to roil you lose some out the top if it's too high. But if it's working for you go with it.
  14. I'd say mustang wire but sounds like you're only buying 100 every now and then. In the catalouge Cad posted you could get the #976-014, you could cut them to length and just put the top eye on them and still have extra wire to make more.
  15. The mustad 32833 hooks are heavy wire - the regular sickle or 570's are lightwire hooks. This difference in wire diameter can cause lead to get in the eye socket.
  16. email Mustang wire - I wanted preformed wires for my old style Erie Dearie Mold and by emailing them they had an overstock and I got a 1000 preformed for $30 plus a few other charges but still WAY less than I could get them from any of the mail orders. Mustangwire@hotmail.com New phone #: 405-556-0112 and ask for Mark
  17. Would love one but like SJ said I only pour once every few months so it's not cost effective for me. Right now I have enough painted heads to last me maybe 6 months and another box with enough poured heads that I could paint and tie for even longer. Usually when I get to 100 of each size I'll pour and with 10K plus hooks I'm not going to run out anytime soon.
  18. US comanies would have heart failure if NAFTA got overturned, as they would have to pay big bucks to keep those factories overseas!! But I hear ya I bought a pair of Texas Tackle split ring pliers a few years ago and when I opened them!!! "Made in Pakistan"!!! and the really scary thought is that 80% of all surgical instruments are made in Pakistan!!! Thanks NAFTA!!!
  19. When I was first looking up floating jig heads this was a link I kept from my searchs, he says he has it! http://www.captboboutdoors.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4669794 Contact: Captain Bob Saum phone: 419-487-0826
  20. I use a regular oven and I use aluminum bread pans with the corners cut, then holes punched with an old paper hole punch and put the hook in the hole after you powder it.
  21. As you can see with fshng2 the hairs in the tails are square cut - when you cut a clump of hair off use a mustach comb to take the underfur out, hold the clump near the jig to determine tail length and if it's too long just cut some above where you're holding it. Once you get used to tying with it you won't have the loose hairs sticking out. Badger hair is a bit slippery like calftail (Kip) - but it ties up nice
  22. wiggle the sprue, and then when it starts to loosen twist it like you're opening a bottle cap and it should come off a lot cleaner. I use an old pocket knife to smooth the sprue cut. Even with the gate cutters you can make a real ugly spot if you cut them off wrong - it takes practice
  23. Not bad for your first ones, you'll get better with practice. Trust me we've all been there. I'd be a bit more careful cutting the sprues off.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top