Fatman

What exactly are you trying to glue???

Yeah the older ones are better - I have the older blue ones, and some of the orange handle ones. Traded my red handled molds and really wish I hadn't. I watch ebay and one's I'm looking for are in my wishlist. Wish I could find a place to blade inserts cheaper!!!!!!! When the ICAST video came out on the new molds I was really interested in the Bat Jig mold and then because tournament anglers wanted a small lead collar plus the wire keeper they changed it, plus it has a hook that only they make for it, so I'll just trade for some of the heads from a few guys I know who make them.

Good to know

Those look great - but really surprised that the hot lead didn't melt the skirts!!!!!!!

Great how to!! Thanks for the info on the silicone - might have to give that a try

Can you tell us exactly what mold it is?? I know when I poured split shots (we have to use non-lead split in Vermont now) I never got perfect pours with them, they were always hard to pour. Any inserts involved??

I'd go with a whiting 100 pack for your ants then, will definetly save you some money.

Just based on what you said you were going to tie ants, you didn't say what size. That will make a huge difference in what you want to buy. The capes from Jann's Netcraft are india capes and while you may find some of the smaller ones there may not be many. While the Strung Saddles from Spirit River are excellent, for bluegill size they may be too big for ants. Again we don't know size hook you'll be tying, so you're best bet on those is to call and see what size hook size they'll work with. For ants I use dry fly saddle hackle - one feather will do a bunch of ants. If you're tying a bunch of different sizes, and other types of flies a cape might be better. I know prices are still up there after the hair feather craze, but a little more info could help us give you a better idea of what to buy. If ants are all you'll be tying the whiting 100 packs would save you money, but make sure to get ones that will match the size of your hook. http://www.jsflyfishing.com/whiting-farms-100s-saddle-pack

guy on jigcraft.com posted a video on making a vise - make the metal pieces bigger and it should work for what you're looking for.

Very Cool!!!!!!!!

If you're using Google Chrome as your browser it could be that - Chrome is no longer supporting Java or Adobe FlashPlayer plug-in's and some sites won't work. They're recommending using FireFox or IE9 or above. It really sucks.

This what you're talking about http://www.northlandtackle.com/Sites/north/Include/thumperjig.tml X2 on Smalljaw moding his mold to do it, he's posted some really great jigs and paintjobs with it.

Cad will get you going!! I learned A LOT about brush tapping and multi colors from him. I've gotten away from Pro-Tec, and use stuff from Columbia Coatings, Rosy's, Powder by the Pound, and it all works just fine. I've mixed them for custom colors and done glitters in them. Cad's tag line on Practice is ABSOLUTELY TRUE!!!!!!!!! Just keep working on it and don't give up. I've got cheap brush's from WalMart and also makeup brush's.

Have been fighting this since it originally started - wrote letters to Congressmen and Senators, Fish and Wildlife and also loon groups. The original report says that using alternative materials would only cost $40 more a year!!! NOT!! The Environmental groups here in Vermont complain about the water quality and run-off - but DIDN"T want to see or hear the fisherman's complaints and photo evidence of the farmers cow's standing in the rivers crapping and pissing in the water!! Run-off is more dangerous than the few jigs we lose per year and even showing them jigs that are powder painted and won't leach if lost doesn't change their minds. Just have to keep fighting it!!!!!!!!! Maybe New Hampshire will learn when it starts losing tourist dollars.

Mookie No base needed just mix it up and keep it stirred up good.

You can buy less than minimum with Hagens - example 1000 blades are $17.60 a 1000, cost per 100 would be $1.76 plus $1.00 fee for being under minimum order (this fee is per item). I've bought lots of blades this way, and have saved a bunch of money

guy on crappie.com has started trying the embossing powders and they're coming out but he doesn't know how the paint jobs are going to hold up under fishing conditions. Besides regular powder paint I've started using PearlEx mica powder that gets mixed in with clear powder paint and they hold up GREAT under fishing. I use an 1/8th of a teaspoon of the PearlEx with 2 tablespoons of clear powder. You cure them just the same, and one package contains 12 colors colors. I have the System 1 and System II packs - at Michaels on a 50% off sale you're looking at $11 a pack. Here's a few of the cured colors Violet Brass Blue russett Solar Gold

Love craft fur - use the Hairline and I also use the Darice but you always end up having to order anything beyond black,brown and white - once in a while you can get red also. Gave up the Punisher stuff once I finished up what I had, it seems to have way to much underfur in it. If I could find a bunch of the Targus craft fur I'd get it, I love the stuff. Smalljaw is spot on about the Fish Hair and cutting the taper on the stuff is tough to learn so you get it every time, and with the craft fur and natural furs I don't worry about using it anymore.

The filter material I got from Ledhed works very well. With white and black I've always had to add clear powder paint to it, just don't add too much you don't want to turn it to a candy/transparent color just enough to make it flow well.

In order to deal with heavier wire I made a little tool from an old screwdriver handle. On the edge of the Worth hand forming tool are the two pins that help with wire shaping Using it as an example I made this You have to get the first nail in, put your wire against it then cut the nail even with the top of the wire. Put your piece of wire against the nail again then mark for the next nail, you have to leave just a tiny hair bigger than the wire your going to be bending, then put the nail in and hammer it into the handle. I left my second nail longer but do need to cut it down. I can do up to .041 wire with it. You can get the nice round eyelet look then use the visegrips to hold the wire for wrapping the final wraps. If I had the tools to do it I'd make the handle out of metal round stock and drill the holes and tap metal pins into it.

Got the color chart today from Lumaflex She didn't send any pricing so I sent her another email asking about prices and if any minimum quantities. The colors are the actual lumaflex material not a picture.

No problem - glad to help.

emailed them for bulk prices and they're sending me a color chart and pricing - If anyone wants to contact them here's the email address jhawkins@supremecorporation.com

Not showing any under that seller now. Does anyone have pics of this stuff???

I'm another one who has to have a clean sprue area - I use an old knife and scrape it smooth. I'm a dipper also but as I also do two color I brush tap a lot of jigs also