Why not just Incorporate the lures in to the wires them selves. Have the hooks actually be part of the bait and not an attachment that can be swapped. Whether someone just twists 5 hooks on 5 lines or pour 5 resin baits on 5 lines or what. With the connections being terminal then with my reasoning it should be one bait and not 5 attached with swivels. One bait 5 hooks still less than most crank baits.
The Doc said mine was purdy constant.
Sorry
I use mainly alumilite with micro balloons and i have noticed little difference in any of the pours. I used featherlite once so im not real familure with it. Just a couple questions do the molds have a ridged back or thick enough to prevent swelling. Sometimes with resins the pour hole and vents will have cured resin and block the expansion of excess resin out of the mold and cause the mold to swell kind of like putting 10lbs of tatters 5lb sack.
I made this a year ago I was trying to show my savvy PC skill and put it in the raised scale thread but I think there was a short between the keyboard and the seat.
I made a small scale press tool out of a used shop brush handle just spread it apart and fold the ears back and tape the upper end and press one at a time [/img]
I thought there was a size limit you might want to let it go before the DNR catches you.
Oh its a lure never mind carry on. All fun aside that is SWEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!
Your close on your calculations but you left out a couple of factors. The hardware and hooks and paint and top coat will make the calc. a little off. The easiest way that I found is make a dummy lure with full hardware and hooks plus paint and top coat then float the bait and add the ballast a little at a time to the belly area by using CA glue till i get it the way i need it then just snap the ballast off and weight that way i can come relatively close the next time I do another bait.
Try heating the bait with a heat gun then drop it in cold water worked for me. The trick is heating the air inside and geting it to expand and pushing the dents out then cool the hot pliable plastic and make it ridged before the air inside cools and condenses and creating a vacuum and suck the dent back in.
Have you tried Janns barlows stamina or lure parts on line. I build my own I take 2 1x4 maple (any wood will do) boards aand screw them together and drill 1/4 inch or larger holes about 3/4 inch down then unscrew and you have a mold for ballast. I use cotter pins for the hanger just fold some ears and pour.
Iv use veil, fish tank nets, butter fly nets but the one that got me in deep was my wife's bath thingy boy the kids got an era full about cutting a big square out of it
I use them just as sonny said press or cut some slots in them. I do this with a pair of side cutters just press a few slots in and epoxy. P.S. clamp the end of the shank with vise grips before you do i that way the pin wont twist or deform the shank.
My buddy made a deck level dump table out of a few hinges and a peace of 4x8 plywood bolted to the deck. just stack the brush on the table remove the side safety rail lift handles and dump like a wheel barrel. Its not electric but it dose take some man power Iv seen him dump 20 at one time with blocks to make it easy stack the brush with the blocks or weight closest to the edge.
Im glad every thing is all right. Reminds me the time my dad blew the hog off the still and set the woods on fire the sheriff asked my dad if the fire started at the still my dad replied what still.
I would use a 3/0 wide gap for a surface bite and for a deeper bite I would use a weighted wide gap in the same size. For a surface bite just jerk it a few times and let it fall. let the fish tell you how they want it if they are active just continues jerks from start to finish if they are kind of slow just jerk and pause jerk and pause.
For a deeper bite just let it fall till your in the zone then just jerk up and let fall and repeat. The bait will fall level and the tail will wag.