hillbilly1

Actually it can be done just orient the mold nose up hill or down hill the strait resin will just settle to the lowest part. I did a cast of a spook type bait with a tail down stance just by tilting the mold to a nose up angle.

I have done some castings of solid baits with just strait resin on the bottom and resin with micro balloons on top. The resin I use will sink like a rock with out balloons. But it was a pain getting the first one to do what I wanted it to do after that it was all gravy. I would do one bait after wrighting down the weight of the 2 part and the micro balloons then run the bait, 4 baits was all it took. I use the numbers from that bait as a primer and I always mix the resin with balloons the same. If I want more weight just use more strait and less mixed or if I want a floater more mixed an less strait

Trinitrotoluene (TNT) the worlds fastest fishing lure Good enough to get you a boat load of fish and if not you still get to go to jail

It keeps me out of my wife's way Other than that I like to challenge my self and build the perfect bait (IMHO) The constant formulations of weight vs displacement to get the desired effect or my constant struggle in understanding vorticity and the way they spin and turn on a given point of a bait is just mind boggling. The fun of it all E=mc2 is cool but C7H5N3O6 is the bomb

The back of my boat looks like radio shack exploded I have 4 bats. wired 2 in series and 2 in parallel I pull 24v to the bow mount and 12v to 2 minns. on the back . In a rule of thumb the further away the draw is away from the power source use bigger gauge wire. The ones closest to the bats. I use the stock I think 10ga. but with the bow mount I have 8 ga. with a 60amp breaker on the + lead and never had any issues. Like the other post check around the shaft for line or something restricting the rotation. I had one minn. the internal magnet came loose and was rubbing on the rotor it would blow a fuse every time I would run it and get real hot on the housing. Spin the prop with your finger (unplugged ) and see if it spins freely or is dragging. I re read your post if the 12ga is running from the bat. to the in line fuse then to a larger ga. wire that may be the problem. IMHO run 8ga from stem to stern both +/- with a breaker that way you wont run out of fuses As for the other most terminals used for hand tightening are just thin copper if you are pulling 24v on 8 to 10 ga from transom to bow at full speed for X amount of time the flow of electrons will get compressed and have to fight for through put at the gauge drop point thats why I over size with 8 ga. and normal big ole honkin lead terminals from the N A P A

Me, I use ancient chine's magic 印刷模板;油印蜡纸 Sorry couldn't help myself , I very rarely free hand. Nearly all my baits are done with stemcells I mean stencils just search for stencils on here or on google and it will be worth it and do a few of the you tube vids on air brushing. Other than that its all trial and error for me.

If its a soft sub strait (wood or PVC) for larger scales I use a acid brush handle that I formed to the profile of a scale just press to do one at a time and for smaller scales the twist end of a Exacto knife works well or the quick connect for a air compressor sometimes all tree work for a plastic bait if you foil it good. The one scale press

I did the same with the #2" till I got one balanced then drop the a size till It was all most dead on at the end 5 bb's a 4 in the front and a 6 under the seat. As for the squair bill sometimes a SB will deflect more off of cover (so I was told) to me if it catches fish I dont care if it has moles or the surface of a fire break as long as it catches fish. Speakin of moles and fire breaks I need to give my wife a call

That"s affirmative I played with them a little in a test tank I wanted to see if I could get them to suspend I just added some ballast (5 bb's) IMHO I think its a water displacement issue across the forehead of the bait I just added some ballast to get the nose down a little more and boom it was a go.I just like to tinker with baits

X3 on that I get 10 here or 10 there and the service I got was by far the best I sent jim a TY email on my first order and what do you know he mailed me back the other place I was getting my eyes from never Emailed me back AS for the floating lips I got a few and with very little tweaking they were good to

Nearly all of the loctites cure to a med amber to a translucent amber. For just a couple $$ more you could get Famowood Quart Clear Coat Epoxy Kit from lowes I had a gift card for them and got a quart kit it sets just like Etex and just as clear. A little easier to find. and a little cheaper

Im with Matt and rayburn just drill it but hold it with pliers or vise-grips because if the bit binds it wont be wack a mole it'll be wack a nub thats why Im known as 3 finger freedy any who Iv use SS wire for drill bits in balsa but that another injury for another thread

I think bloxygen is to rid air from coatings such as Dick nights moisture cure polyurethane and such I dont think it will work for 2 part mixes such as D2T or ETech lite they use self generating heat to cure and to prolong the pot life of 2 parts I put my 2 part in the fridge to cool them down but that wont stop the curing it just slows it down..

In all my years Iv only seen 1 set of factory run crankbait molds out side the factory. It was at a recycling center. They were a nice 20 peace aluminum injection mold and the center was paying by the pound more than I could afford so off they went I all most cried. Its a long shot you could try contacting a bait company and see if they have any discontinued models that they have the mold for but like I said its a long shot. Or do as I do make your own with RTV start out slow 1 bait 1 mold till you get it right then do a multi bait mold the most I do is 4 or 5 at a time.

Is it the deluxe airbrush? I have 2 of their deluxe made by Master airbrushes now and mine didnt have any plastic peaces but the caps for the jars. Is there any way you could up load a pic?

Thanks again dave that is about the easiest way to get the guessing out of how to neutra a bait. I was going to use a Archimedes death ray to dispose of my bad baits but that I cant seem to get working

Have you tried Emailing Airbrush City to see if they have any parts. I scanned through and I didnt see any parts list but I would miss a elephant if I didnt step in its crap