hillbilly1

And if you read the post know one ran acetone in an iwata it was a HF airbrush with cheap I have no clue rubber seals and yes xylene is the best but DA works and some times I need a thin coat instead of a thick brush on that adds more weight than I need on a bait and yes research and research some more and Im happy your iwata has ran for five years and I hope mine dose the same thats why I dont and wont use acetone to shoot out of it or clean it

Ok I pondered on the thought of the .5 tip and did some diggin and checked out a friends Master S68 and what do you know its the same air brush but it has a .35 so I just ordered a .35 Needle, Nozzle, Cap Kit for Master S68 so may be I can get the spread down a little finer for 9 bucks + s&h to me its worth a shot I get paranoid about trashing my eclipse if its a no go then my friend got some new parts in the mail

The walls are 3/32 of a inch were as the high end builders use polystyrene or I think its poly-sumthin and they can get the wall much thinner. So far most of them have held up but every now and then I get a batch that for some reason the walls stay flexible and spongy I think that is just a short between the keyboard and the seat. Ill start with the simplest first. The bill mold was done with a master model I had a friend do in CAD then shape on a CNC or you could just pull the bill out of a DT-10 or some other bait from there I just made a single bill 2 peace mold and poured 5 bills then made a 2 peace mold of a set of 5. Then I put a 1/32" x 1/2" 18-8 Stainless Steel Cotter Pin (for the line tie) in the mold held in by through pins from one side of the mold to the other the cotter pins need a 45 degree bend at the eye to keep the eye out of the polyester. Its a lot of trial and error for the most of it. As for the 8 hangers, Now I use the same size cotter pin as the bill just bend in the shape of a T and trim to fit. I can get cotter pins (half way made 8 hangers) a hole lot cheaper than a roll of brass wire (sometimes). Or you could use the Zinc cotter pins which are cheap cheap but strong. My source for C Pins

The mold will make you or break you I think it took me almost six weeks to get the first multi mold fixed the way I wanted it and boy it was a pain. I did the test molds in several different ways trying to figure out which is the best way. The only one I found that I could get the seems almost perfect was to lay a bed of silly-cone about 1/4 inch deep let cure.Then I made a little wire harness for the bait half to stick in the silly-cone bed after leveling all the bait haves I poured more silicone in till it was just about to run back in the the bait haves then let cure. Then I just trimmed as little as I could get away with. The top half is a breeze just leave everything the way it is and pour. The wire helps hold the haves down so I could keep the seems even and so the bait wouldnt float up. Like I said it was a pain if I had to do it over again I think I would take up knittin

I use alumilight or you could use Feather Lite. To me the feather lite seems kind of soft but will work sorry about that I generalize when it comes to 2 parts to me every thing that has a A or B is epoxy For the bills I use a Clear Polyester Casting Resin if you use the polyester resin follow the safety precautions and then some the stufff is nasty and will cause all kinds of heath problems.

In the words of my idol Dr. McCoy aka bones "D@# it man Im a bait builder not a photographer" I cant take a pic but I can build a bait

The PTB wont let me attach a pic so its in the hard bait gallery as banjo file

Sorry

50,80120 and 400 is purdy much the norm I purfur 3m and a little tool I made It uses 1/2 inch Bandfile Belts I use it for shaping purdy simple to make and it take less material off than a rotary tool plus it'll help keep the round in the bait plus plus its easy on the fingers

Dave that is awesome, as for the forming bar would a 7 shaped or a crescent shape bend in the bar get you above the pins for the belly hook bend. Just throwing it out there

Back in the day I would swipe some of my dads lead shot to put in spooks. I would drill a 1/8 inch hole in the top the seal it off with a peace of scotch tape then put what ever I had over it to seal it off. It didnt look good from the top but you could cast it a mile.

I painted some real flames on a friends evinrude 225 cowling in 08 used Acrylic Lacquer Clearcoat still holding strong. I guess he wanted real flames to go with the real smoke

On my swimbaits (I dont make many) I use a ballast line from the nose to the center of the tail and make the bait thinner at the bottom than the top and giving the bait a kind of a "V" profile. The way Iv have it figured is the less buoyant the bottom the less ballast I need to help it float strait and the ballast line works like a fulcrum instead of the bottom trying to pull the bait down the top is trying to pull the bait up, Getting the center of gravity in the right spot is the hardest thing Iv learned, As for your bait I love it and the weighting for a floater is going to be tricky to much it will sink not enough and it will sit with a lean to one side.

No but, you sure did improve on the hub that it spins on Note to self "get out your router table and give this a shot" Thats why I love this site

Sorry guys, yes it is 30min epoxy but not D2T (gettin kind of hard to find on the shelf) its the 30min epoxy from Hobby Town USA. for all I know it my be made by Devcon. I thin it just a little. I dont use 5min on anything but Im starting to use 15min epoxy from the same place to do a quicker set if if need be.

I use a syringe that came with one of those ink cartridge refill kits it has a large gauge needle I just fill the hole from the bottom up with no bubbles. I just draw it up through the needle as best as I can, some times depending on the temp I thin it down with DA. When Im done I just flush it with acetone to clean it out Iv used the same one for over a year and still holding.

The new rotisserie motor I got had a square out put drive so I found a peace of square aluminum tubing the same dimensions as the drive. Then drilled the center out to the diameter of a peace of threaded rod. I flattened one side of the rod and drilled and threaded a hole in the side of the square tubing for a set screw. Still holding strong. For my old motor was a round out put drive I just flattened both drive and rod about an inch on one side then used a peace of round hollow aluminum tubing with drilled and threaded holes for set screws on both ends. Either way worked fine for me. If the motor gives out I dont have to break it down I just remove the drive shaft screw and thats it.