captsully18

Kris, butt caps are relatively easy to replace. Check out Mud Hole's assortment of butt caps. Measure the diameter of remaining cork and choose one that has that inside diameter. David

I would add a reply, but Dino and BobP have said it all. Eventhough Dino and I brush, and Bob dips his baits, and others spray, to each his own. I think the basic solution to the problem of wrinkling is to keep each coat of paint as thin as possible, allow to air dry for a short time, heat set well, and try to keep the DN as thin and workable as possible. Good luck to you. David

Sorry to chime in so late, but just flew in from Mexico and my arms were so tired that I had to rest for a bit. Dino, aka "Lure Prof" is without a doubt the master when it comes to mixing epoxy. I have watched him several times and have never seen a bubble in the final product. He is right about getting better the more you do this. I can now mix epoxy bubble free faster than I used to mix and then try to remove bubbles. He da man. David

Chris, if you replace the screw with a cork I think you will find that it won't seal as well as the screw. As for pouring left over DN back into can you will contaminate what is in can. Since what you had out has begun to set while exposed to air that reaction will continue in the can and you will probably loose entire contents. Mark, the syringe idea sounds good. I would be leary of it though. I don't think the syringe will seal as well as the screw, and you would have to turn can on it's side while dispensing from the syringe. As the hole for tip or syringe will be larger than for the screw a lot of air can enter while you dispense. The syringes for Flexcoat work very well since no chemical action occurs until both parts are put together so it makes no difference if air gets into the bottles. Just my two cents. David

Yep, "tapping the keg" works very well. I have been using the same can for over two years, and still have a little left. Also have a new can ready to "tap". After a few uses there will be a build up of material on outside of can at screw site. This is good. It helps seal can when screw is in place. Got the idea from rodbuilding friends several years ago. We use a product to apply finish to rod blanks that is very similar to DN. The "tap a keg" process REALLY saves money here. This stuff cures 5 times faster than DN and without this process I have had to throw away several 4 oz. bottles that were more than half full. No more! David

John, I would love to talk to you about a trade. I build rods and have been doing so for about 30 years. I have build several swimbait rods from a St. Croix musky blank and the guys that have had me build them really like them. I really like your baits, so lets talk trade, if you are interested. Will pm #. David

Tom, I use a stainless wire (19 ga) that I get from Ace hardware. It can also be purchased in 1 lb. containers at Harbor Freight. The containers at Ace are small and not expensive. Easily worked, have had no problems holding fish. David