captsully18
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Everything posted by captsully18
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Hey Dave, I have not tried PVC as yet. I shall try it in the future. A lot of guys here use it and report a lot of success. I have two of JRHopkins baits and they are done from PVC. They look fantastic. Haven't used them yet. Leaving for Mexico again on 16th and will use them there. Can't wait. David
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You're welcome. David
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Gary, I drill my holes, screw the eyes in, remove them, mix my D2T and fill holes (time consuming, but worth it), coat the lower half of screw eye, reinsert the screw eyes, clean off excess epoxy. David
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Game sucked!!! But, hey, Rick glad to see ya post again. Lots of good eating there. I'm jealous. Used to eat those things regularly while stationed in Cuba. Hmmmmmm. David
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Wannabee, both products will hold screw eyes. I use either screw eyes, or twisted ss wire. I set both of them in with D2T for insurance. Sure would hate to loose Mr. Big 'cause a screw eye pulled out. Had a screw eye come out once on a comercially made bait but didn't have a fish on, thank goodness. Just sent it back and they replaced it. Took all the screw eyes out and reset them with D2T. Sorry for rambling. David
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Thanks again, guys. Mark, all holes are drilled after casting. Dino, could never have made it as far as I have without the help of some guy called the "lure advisor" David -
Good work, Mark. Like the crappies. David -
What a wonderful job. Can tell you have been making baits for a while. David -
Mark, neither of the resins can compare to poplar or any other hard wook in density. Comparing resins to hardwoods is pretty much the same as comparing balsa to hardwoods. The resins have plenty of holding power for screw eyes, however I do seat all hardware with D2T for insurance. In my opinion, the true advantage of resins is the bouyancy (sp?). Wannabe, if your primary bait making is floating baits then Featherlite is the way to go. David
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Good looking bait, man. How does swim? David -
Thanks for all the kind words, guys. Riverman, the tail was colored with Sharpie markers, then cleared with DN. David
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A-Mac is right-on. I use both Alumilite and Featherlite. Over the past year my preference has turned toward the Featherlite. With the Featherlite you mix only two compounds, then pour into your molds. With the Alumilite you have to measure out part A and part B, then add microballoons to each, mix well, mix the two parts together, then pour. To get consistent baits your measurements must be exact. Yes, the Featherlite must be weighted. It is very easy to sand and/or carve right out of the mold. It does become more durable the longer it sits. I usually demold, wait about an hour, clean up any imperfections (mold lines, etc.) and then put the piece aside for about week to ten days to let it reach full hardness. At this time it is ready for ballast, hook hangers, line tie, any further sanding (at this point it is still easier to work with than a hardwood) or carving. When ready to paint I wipe it down with denatured alcohol and paint. The clear coat I use is Dick Nites and 4 coats makes each bait almost as durable as steel. Let me add that if you are looking for a bait that will sink quickly the Alumilite without microballoons will give you what you are looking for. No need to add any ballast. The bait is brittle until you clear coat it for protection. Both products are very good, and each has it's place in my arsenal. David
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This is a 6-7" swimbait that I make from Featherlite. The tail is Lexan. A close friend described the pattern from memory of a bait that he has long since lost and wanted to see on one of my baits. He was excited with the result. Please give some honest opinions. Thanks for looking. David
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Here is a photo of the handle that I have been looking for. I appologize for being so computer illiterate that it has taken me so long to learn how to post this photo. David
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Yet another wonder crafted by the master. Great! David -
Yes, cedar will work well. Red cedar works easier than white cedar. I mainly use poplar for swimbaits, and balsa for crankbaits. There are many suppliers out there....Jan's Netcraft, Barlow's, Stamina, McMaster-Carr (for hardware, lexan for lips, stainless steel hardware), your local fabric shop, or Wal-Mart can supply material for scale patterns, not sure what it is called. Minnow nets can also be used for scale patterns. Hope this helps get you started. David
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J, I use DN and when I clear one of my swimbaits I have it on the same holder I use to paint (a hacksaw frame) and I carefully use a small brush to get into the joints without getting any on the metal. I then transfer bait to the turner with enough pull pressure on ends of bait to keep it straight so that the joints do not close. This sounds tedious and somewhat complicated, but it really isn't. I manage it so it can't be that tough . Hope this helps you out. David PS nice paint job. -
More fine work! I also notice the mesh-over-mesh design. Cool. And thanks for the mention. David -
Mark, very, very nice. Looks as good as anything out there, maybe better than most. There certainly should be a market place for your work. Good luck with it. David -
Well bud, it has all paid off. CONGRATULATIONS! Now I can tell my grandchildren, and great grandchildren that I once knew you. You keep up all your long hours and hard work, and we will see your fantastic work in all the top tackle outlets. So happy for you. David
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Yet another beautiful example of your work! Thanks for the inspiration. David -
Mark, this has been a great thread. You have reported your results as well as I have read anywhere. Thanks for all your info. Good luck on your business venture. David
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Good idea KC. Another thing you may try is applying Bondo putty, comes in tubes and can be purchased at Wal-Mart, to the holes or craters and then sand. The Bondo sands extremely easy. David
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Vasilene makes a very good release agent for two part molds. As far as paint and clear coat, I use same paint as I do for all other baits. Createx acrylic paint, Dick Nite clear coat. David
