Ogajiga

The VMC double looks like a classic heavy wire chisel point. I've got some similar classic Mustad 7825 #4 doubles that should be compatible with a 1/4 oz size blade? Is the front hook necessary? Did Mr. Banks design the Silver Buddy for smallies or wallys? Did he have a scientific or engineering background? Based on appearance I would never guess it would vibrate. Absolute Genius!

Eventually I'll mod the mold to fit the available blanks. The snap jiggers do occasionally foul the double trebles on each other or the line, so good advice on the lift slow drop to avoid that. I never use treble hooks, would a single double hook on the tail be sufficient?

Looked it up, & I was wondering if the original Silver Buddy popularized by the late Billy Westmoreland was fished as is unpainted and unembellished? I have a vintage Do-it Pro mold but currently available blanks don't quite fit. I've never fished a blade bait but notice that the local walleye cast & retrieve experts use them very effectively both straight reeling and snap jigging. They appear to prefer the modern versions with fancy colors and holographic flash. And, are the chatter jigs used for other species besides bass? Cast & retrieve or trolled?

Looks like a modified knock off of my Nail Head designed 15 yrs ago. Without the weight of a head to stabilize a hook point upright position, a pinned bait could roll or even spin. Very responsive to angler imparted twitch darts. http://leadfreejigheads.com/images/nails.JPG

Since the OP already has other molds, I don't understand the advantage of having a single mold for tying and pinning plastics? Since Smalljaw ties bucktail on a no collar head, perhaps the best solution would be a wire keeper head which can be cast with or without the keeper. Do-it conveniently offers many jig head styles utilizing both eye sockets and wire keepers to suit both aesthetic and functional preferences.

VMC 7247 ? Gamakatsu 114 has a slightly longer shank relative to point gap ie: a 2/0 Gami has a 1/0 gap, so its comparable to a longer shank standard 1/0. Eye legs might be undersize compared to 32831. I use 114 up to size 2/0, dunno about bigger sizes.

Off the rack soft plastics have been satisfactory for all sizes of walleye, so I have no need for ties. I prefer a custom designed forward eye flat bottom down weighted head for mounting plastics or a downsized version for tying trout jigs. Not sure which production molds include these features.

I have no use for top heavy walleye jig heads, but the local top dawg shoreline walleye experts here use them exclusively for both tying doll flies and pinning plastics. Most are satisfied with the original forward of center hook eye version.

Outstanding innovation and attention to quality detail. But did they have exceptional fish catching ability? For just bass or other species like walleye?

I use Hagen's salmon red premium plastic beads for propeller spin bearings super gllued on hook shanks. Stacked beads stay in place better than singles. There are reasons why the suggested beads are source, type, & color specific.

How about weightless T-rig Gamakatsu EWG worm hooks? Available in sizes #4 - 5/0. Can be weighted with an inline worm weight or split shot.

Thank you for the sharing. I don't know what kind of powder paint my guy uses, assumed Component Systems as the trusted original developer. I think he mentioned oven curing at 325* due to the lower melting point of bismuth-tin alloy est 350-390*. From the posted comments sounds like 350* might be necessary for proper hard cure? I will try a clear liquid top coat to hopefully mitigate the chipping problem.

I don't paint, but have an expert provide me with that service - base color coat + clear glitter top coat - oven cured. Altho the even smooth finish looks perfect, the paint seems to chip easily. No bouncing off hard surfaces on casts, maybe an occasional bottom bump on slow retrieves. Is this normal? Would another top coat provide more durability?

What weights heads? What sizes hooks? What sizes & types tails? What presentation tekneeks? What target species? What aquatic environments?

I started with cheapest possible flush cutters & worked my way up to middle of the pack. Main difference was paying more for harder steel lengthened the time before re-sharpening was necessary. Also purchasing made in USA was a good way to express patriotic support for American mfg.

Filing lead can create hazardous dust. With practice and a proper quality tool flush cutters can be used to shave off the sprue break or cut scar high spots.

I refurbish my Swanstrom cutters with flat EZE Lap diamond sharpeners, the cheap plastic handle ones work OK but the extra fine grit can wear out quickly, so best to start with a coarser grit(s). My cutters have an adjustable gap to prevent blade clash dulling. Its important to flat sharpen the cutting edges of flush cutters like the original and avoid creating bevels.

What's wrong with the Victory hooks ?

Or just get a custom mold made - serveral providers post on this website. Yah, the up front cost might be a jolt but the mold will last a lifetime and more benefitting not only oneself but buds & family. Might even sell a few castings & the mold will eventually pay for itself. Fishing ones own custom design successfully is incomparably satisfying.

Really impressed with the design - thin sharp edge body to slice thru weeds with wedge shape head to deflect. Wide body for level plane and wire angle adjustable retrieve lift.

As an alternative to spinners, a 1/16 #6 ball head tied with short fur has caught running water bobos from dinks to big as they get here, with the occasional big tug diversion of carp up to 30#. The finished jig is about 1" long with a full bodied tie resembling a fur ball.

Brittle pure bismuth 85% lead weight 520* melt expands 3.32% melt - solid. Soft pliable pure tin 64% lead weight 450* melt shrinks 2.51% melt - solid In an alloy of the 2 metals a higher tin component will lessen the cooling expansion slightly and the alloy melt temp will decrease as low as 283* for the eutectic alloy of 63% bismuth - 37% tin. So Tiderunner's 7-1 alloy might be an ideal compromise of powder paintable adequate weight (82% of lead) casting release mitigation. Smooth cavity face machined molds release castings best and Do-ts especially current mfg will tend to be sticky. Simple ball or tube head designs release easier than more complicated feature castings. Thru casting pins in worm weights are near impossible to remove, while partial insert pins in weedless jig heads can be removed with pliers twisting and pulling.

For "non-toxic" wouldn't melt casting bismuth be EZr ? 85% lead weight. https://www.rotometals.com/bismuth-ingot-chunk-99-99-pure-1-pound/

Sponge is a good idea, thank you.