Ogajiga

If you'd answered my very first question "what size(s)?" I could have mentioned that Hagen's might have those sizes inventoried at about the same price as Shorty's. Hagen's Fishing Tackle | Lure Manufacturer

The VMCs are the only(?) choice for a black nickel finish heavy 60* hook in sizes #6 thru #1 and fortunately the quality is superb, IMO. I don't know why the Barlows bronze 7161s are so pricey, VMC quoted 7161 BNs starting at $75 or so per thou. I don't think 7161 BN is inventoried in the USA because I had to wait a coupla months for the #6 & #4 I ordered thru Shorty's. Pic of 1/16 #6 and 1/8 #4.

Haven't turned my eyes yet, but IMO a small edge cut abrasive wheel if such a thing exists would make for a relatively uncomplicated mod with a Dremel. If you're considering the G flateye due to a lack of size diversity in the G 291 & 2034, the V 7161BN is available full range down to #6. Contact VMC directly for samples if interested - I'm not aware of any retail sources.

What size(s)? Most 60* heavy wire jig hooks choices are listed here: Heavy duty jig hooks with a 60

Well, that explains why a tiny zinc wheel weight or two I might have missed can result in the formation of such a largely disproportionate amount of terminal slag. Also explains why a previous batch of soft appearing ballast lead tended to continually form surface slag and exhibit poor pouring characteristics.

Because HI has a history of toxic chemicals showing up in municipal water supplies and massive marine fish kills from storm drain runoff, the state gov offers an annual "hazardous materials" collection for my skim waste. Prior to this program, with no better choice, my annual gallon or two of dross powder ended up in our trash landfill. edit: I was wondering why the zinc(?) sludge won't remelt since the WWs apparently melted rather easily along with the lead first time around?

UG, not counting the ones I missed which might have got melted in with the lead WW, there appear to be at least 3 different types of zinc/Zamak weights that I sorted out. One type is clearly marked "MC-Zn" on the metal, but the others are unmarked & only sortable because they float on top of the melted lead along with the steel clips - for awhile. The "sparkly" appearance is shiny bits of lead stuck to the ones that were pulled from the melt. As "sagacious" pointed out tho, its not hard to lose smaller zinc WWs in the floating clips and in the short time it takes to flux (if one fluxes clips & melt together) the melt temp could easily increase sufficient to melt the zinc especially if Zamak. So you don't have to look it up, Zamak is an alloy of zinc + aluminum & maybe copper which melts at a much lower temp than pure zinc. edit: In other words many zinc WWs are very hard to distinguish from lead by appearance, unlike steel WWs with obvious rivet holes. You'll notice an absence of small zinc WW in my pic so I assume I missed sorting them out. Pre-melt, the only way I can sort the ones that are pretty much identical in appearance to lead is by testing the hardness (zinc is much harder than lead) by scratching the surface. With sensitive hands one might be able to distinguish the lighter weight of zinc approx 2/3 that of lead. I prefer to have the clips cleaned of lead as much as possible by fluxing them in the melt, but with more zinc WWs showing up may have to skim off the clips before fluxing, or at least, more closely examine the contents of the floating clip pile.

Looks like a Gami hook upgrade? Seen mylar cord jigs before, but the flair extending over the head is a new one. How did the jigs work?

Since the big revelation by "sagacious" re: lighting the flux smoke all is well. Still like using a lighted bit of paper towel soaked in used paint thinner as an igniter. Only minor change is now prefer adding wax flux in 2 or 3 smaller bits consecutively rather than a single application of a larger piece.

"aggressively-forming frothy dross scum" being an accurate description I guess some zinc wheel weights crashed my melt party. Did some research, & zinc alloy Zamak actually melts at a much lower temp than pure zinc. 718*F considerably lowers the comfort gap between lead MP and its indeed possible that some smaller non-lead WW missed the sort and got lost in the clip pile floating on the melt. The pic shows how similar in appearance to lead some zinc WWs are making a pre-melt sort difficult. I'm pretty satisfied with bismuth-tin alloys so the Zamaks & steelies go into the metal recycling bins. With the foundry price of zinc below even lead and the lead bans I suspect more & more Zamaks will be party crashing in the future.

Can zinc be substituted for antimony as a lead hardener? Zinc is way cheaper than antimony (currently $.70 versus $2.17 per lb.) & maybe some WW mfgs are economizing? Seems to be more & more zinc & steel weights lately in WW batches. The sludge mass pictured was the remainder after reheating & fluxing skimmed dross to recover useable lead. Increasing heat some failed to melt sludge, not that I wanted to melt out any zinc since I have no use for it.

Serving the same function as wire coil keepers either molded in or clip on does anyone know where to get some? Perhaps a mfg. who can make them? Thinking that a plastic spike keeper would be quicker to poke into a bait than a screw in coil.

Since learning proper fluxing courtesy of "sagacious", the only waste is a fine dark powder strained out of the fluxed skim. The chunkier remainder I save and re-heat & flux in a separate open pot to separate any remaining useable metal. But, heres a pic of some sludge skim from a portion of my last batch of wheel weights that refuses to reduce further with the additional heat & flux process. Also pictured are the zinc weights that I was careful to separate from the last WW melt, keeping the melt temp just high enuf to melt lead(622*F) but not zinc(787*F). Does anyone know whats up?

Looking at my Do-it CB-4-AB I think a vertical press of some sort would be a better tool than a hand held Dremel for cutting additional eyelet cavities. Without the center post designed into a Do-it to prevent it, there could be possible pour leakage into the eyelet unless the new eyelet cavities were cut with precision depth & shape control.

Heres a pic. Finish is black nickel but light reflection on forged area looks bronze. Most hard tempered hooks snap at the leg angle so I'm not gonna try any bending. Be glad to send samples. Probably not a good stock fit in an Arkie due to compromising the weedguard depth, Grass Jig maybe. Hey "cadman", which mold did you use these in?

The Gamis were custom mfg. for Gary Yamamoto, & are similar to the 291 except the eye leg angle is 35* instead of 60*.

Most molds & reels gone, still some quality stuff available at good prices.

I'm pretty steady browsing "molds" in the "Fishing" section of eBay Sporting Goods, & often see the "Erie Rig" mold offered. In fact, one might be listed right now. I'd post a link but its against the forum rules.

T.J., just letting you know you're not alone. I got a very bad batch of 32729 recently and Mustad denied there was anything wrong with them! Well, I'll never buy another 32729 from them and am also phasing out 32746. In fact, also discontinued 34184 & 91715 a few years ago due to deteriorating quality. Only Mustads I use now are 3 sizes of 32786 & if that slips I'll switch entirely to VMC 7161. I don't used turned eye hooks, but VMC makes a 32798 equivelant.

This from a pure jig man with no blade experience - what if you reversed the business & attractor components? The floating wood above & metal blades below?

Adding to my fellow heavy metal fans good advice I would suggest adding tin in the amounts: 1. To hardened lead like 50-50 or 70-30 soft lead-wheel weight alloy: 2% by weight 2. To soft lead: 4% by weight Tin added to hardened lead improves pourability & the oxidation resistance already afforded by the antimony content of the hard lead. Soft lead IMO requires more tin added for significant oxidation resistance & toughness. Too much tin tho, for example 10% tin added to soft, actually degrades pourability.

If you want to store pure/soft lead unpainted jig heads the addition of tin to the lead in the range of 30-1 to 20-1 (lead-tin ratio by weight) will keep the surface shiny clean much longer. I get my tin by scrounging surplus remnant solder or junk pewter from garge sales etc, but strongly advise against alloying with flux cored solder.

INT-345B In-Line Sinker mold. Lightly used - $15 Gamakatsu 5/0 35* blk nkl heavy wire round bend flipping jig hooks - 1,000 box - $120 Asian mfg. 90* chem sharp light wire jig hooks - bronze & red - #6 thru 1/0 - 1,000 - $20 to $30 Bead Chain Swivels - small 4 ball size - Danielson - 100 pieces - $3 Buyer pays postage. email hawnjigs@yahoo.com edit: sold items removed

The older brown box and newer blue & white box Gamis I've gotten were brand labeled. If the hooks are genuine Gamakatsu you are describing the 291 flipping jig hook which is pretty much identical to the Mustad 32786 3/0 & 4/0. Both hooks will often fit Do-it molds designed for the Eagle Claw 730 but the shorter eye leg Eagle Claw 410-413 hook molds may require enlarging the hook eye slots.

What's wrong with the Do-it RHO-5-A and Tube-TX molds? If the Gamis (291?) don't perfectly fit should be a relatively easy mold modification.