Ogajiga
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Everything posted by Ogajiga
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Howdy young fella, last year you can call yourself a kid, enjoy it! Some of us started with hardbaits and moved on to bucktails - find us in the "Wire Baits" section.
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"daveh" my wife & I enjoyed that - Thanks! Coupla weeks ago trout fishing in CO had a brush crashing ground thumping pair jump into the water 30 feet upstream - those big critters aren't particularly afraid of humans, are they? Especially in "Moose Safe" zones.
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What I noticed about Craigslist is that you reach perhaps a different segment of the pop than reads printed classifieds. So, I got some lead supply through CL when my paper want adds fizzled out. CL does state their site is off limits to business type ads. The "flagging nazis" do a decent job of weeding out the scammers, but those postings are obviously bogus, and perhaps they should not bother guys trying to make an honest buck.
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Hey "gat0r", since pure lead jig heads are just slightly tougher than a water balloon, think your hardening idea is wise. If your (fluxed) hardened lead is a tough pour on the smaller heads, 2-3% tin added might improve the pourability. I would guess tho that your bottom pour should do OK with 50-50 WW-soft or maybe even straight wheel weights for the larger size heads. Last resort alloy wise would be 4-5% tin added to pure which is the easiest to pour alloy I know of. The tin adds significant corrosion resistance and a bit of toughness to soft lead.
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Yeah, I once bought some of that stuff online from a rather odd individual who wouldn't disclose what this secret antimony flux was. Didn't know what exact chemical it was until I saw this post and did some research. Like "sagacious" said "what a mess!" Shucks "reeves", I thought you had discovered a magic treatment for my bucket of strained out powder skim - guess I'm stuck with it?
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Never powder painted and haven't liquid painted for years, but...has anyone tried LureCraft's "Super Highlight Luster Pigments" in their epoxy top coats? This might be a powder grade of Hagen's "Crystallina" fine glitter which I really liked for chameleon color change flash effects, and might enhance the candy coats without obscuring them. edit: for those unfamiliar with this type of glitter it wets out transparent and is very different from the foil types which have a peppery effect on the underlying color.
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Thanks guys, I feel better about the lack of courtesy issue. Having been there done/doing that, I realize we leave the nest with rough edges and the wisdom of generosity takes time and knocks to understand. I'm embarrassed thinking about the wise mouth "rebel without a clue" that I used to be, and shouldn't judge others. Edit: but as "Reeves" mentioned, guys who waste other's time will reap what they sow.
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Hey Euro guys, Thanks, that was very interesting, guess I won't be planning any fishing vacations out your way. In our island(s) state there is no ocean fishing license, and I was surprised to learn you had to pay to play on the continental US when I first crossed the ocean about 6-7 years ago. However, without license fee revenue here there is no stocking program & I have never seen a game warden to enforce size/season/bag limit rules. Shoreline fishing success here therefore requires skilled, creative, and often death defying solutions.
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I'm getting burned out with forum posts requesting product or info which I respond to publicly or by PM and never get a reply. I wonder if my offer of solution is a good or bad idea and why? Am I expecting too much? - any opinions would be appreciated.
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Hey, C&F, what mold do you need the hooks for?
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OK, need to clarify - the hooks listed are already 90* and were mentioned to advise you that only weak hooks can be bent at the eye legs to alter the angle. On further consideration the ideal hook for do it yourself 90* wide gaps would be Sickles which already have a wider gap than standard Aberdeens and a harder angle on the point leg similar to commercial Mustad and Gami wide gaps. The most practical place IMO to bend to reposition point angle was mentioned, any other place will weaken the hook.
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Suggest not counting on angled hook eye legs aka eye stems being bendable to 90*. Well tempered premium brands including Ultra Point tend to snap at the point of the angle. EC 57x, Mustad 3275x, and Matzuo Aberdeens (not Sickles) might be bendable but thats because they are softer wire.
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Haven't seen any 90* wide gaps available besides the 37188s which samples I got appeared to be poor quality Mustad "classic". If just for your own use you can bend standard "J" or Sickle hooks into wide gaps pretty easily. By putting the new bend into the straight shank just on the eye side of the existing J bend the strength shouldn't be significantly affected. Further bending of the already curved "J" will almost certainly weaken the bend out resistance of the hook. This suggestion is the result of my own experimentation, and not the qualified advice from hook mfgs.
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Jeez "turkeylegs1246" how much "too much parafin" was that? Update on less than successful yesterdays pour - lead alloy was too hard and switching to softer alloy today (flame fluxed of course) had much better results. Because paper burns out too quickly as a flux smoke igniting agent, tried dipping rolled up small pieces of paper towel in my ol' friend WD-40 which extended the burn for the duration of the fluxing. Perhaps someone has a better idea?
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"gat0r", haha, that reminds me of how I was behind my buds in...uh...experience and how satisfying it was to finally get the flux into the pot. Let us know how it goes. "cadman", threads don't de-rail, they sometimes divert to other interesting destinations. PM sent to ya. Guess I expected miracles but yesterdays #3 flame flux session with problem Do-it 1 oz. Arrow Heads still a tough full fill out of the spike barbs. But, thanks to TU theres still a bag of tricks to try on that. edit: "cadman", that candle/wax site is really interesting!
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"gat0r", sup to you but after 10 years of blundering I'm staying out of the closet! Second flame flux session today with softer alloy again produced quality castings at a lower temp than I thought possible. And in a 150+" rainfall climate with 90% humidity normal. "cadman", I too have had frustrating WTF! days so you're not alone. How are you other born again fluxers doing?
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OK, tried the flame flux today and am very pleased with results. Lit wood matches tended to snuff on the melt so used silver dollar size pieces of paper towel lit in the propane burner flame to drop into the pot 2 pieces in sequence usually needed per flux. Wax smoke definitely minimized and fringe benefits noted: there was far less oxide slag to skim and main thing is that the wheel weight melt poured well at a significantly lower temp than unfluxed. This is gonna save a bundle on fuel cost as propane is now $4.50 per gal. out my way. Lower temp castings also have a more even finish and less oxide dust residue than hot.
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Lead residue crusted & plated onto skimmed clips has always bothered me, and including the clips in the fluxing process sounds like a great solution to minimizing the amount of lead going into our trash landfill with them. That idea along with the drain holed clip skimmer will almost make my next wheel weight melt a pleasure. Now if I can only scrounge some WW...
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"sagacious", my allowing smoking flux was from ignorance of match lighting as an additional fluxing tool. Previous flux choice WD-40 would always spontaneously ignite (sometimes quite dramatically!) and since wax didn't I thought smoke was normal to the process. Thanks for the tip, guess I'll need a longer stir spoon. And yup, I can spot potential melt pot fillers at garage sales & swap meets from an exceptional distance.
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"sagacious", haven't tried yet, do you flux tire weights before or after removing clips?
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"reeves", haha another non-fluxer out of the closet. US industrial supply price of lead down to $.79 per lb. today from a high of $1.70 last year, maybe your (ex)supplier will adjust price? Making a precision lead alloy outa scrap especially with antimony added gotta be tough! Definitely, Thanks to "sagacious" for sharing with us, and would like to mention that all comments & questions are valuable in topic discussions and appreciated.
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Since supply is limited in my location I often have to deal with mystery sludge contaminated lead and in my experience out of the many I've tried beeswax flux seemed the most effective at powdering the junk out of the melt. Cost not an issue since candles including beeswax are often a garage sale bargain. Suggest beginning fluxers(outdoors) go straight to solid wax of some kind and not bother with foul smelling and possibly hazardous experiments. Never tried but Marvelux might be a good option indoors. Yes, beeswax does smoke a lot and doesn't seem to flame up in my experience.
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TJ, huh, now theres an idea. A drain hole or few might be especially useful when skimming wheel weight clips with a larger ladle.
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This has been mentioned by others, but want to add that my tool of choice for stirring flux and skimming dross in a small batch melt is the small quarter(coin) size cup Lee ladle with the wooden handle. Also want to suggest avoiding plastic handle tools around hot lead.
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Site Expansion & the future of TU (Poll)
Ogajiga replied to redg8r's topic in TU Site Info & Updates
Having learned my niche in tackle making the hard way by trial and much error, I'm here to share what I can to help others out. Sorry, but don't know if I want to pay for this opportunity.