Ogajiga

Um, the Gamakatsu 604 and Gami or Ultra Point 2x are dissimilar enuf to require separate molds for consitently optimal pours. The 604s have a shorter eye leg than standard Aberdeens but the 2x hooks have even shorter eye legs and bigger diameter eye rings per size. Myself, have separate Aberdeen, 604, & 2x ball head molds. Can one mold fit all hooks? - possible, but fits might be sloppy allowing melt bleed into hook eye cavities and shank slots, plus excessive vertical movement in eye cavs possibly resulting in off angle shank sits. Lots of Do-it production round head mold possibilities, but mods might be required for 604 & 2x. The Shakey molds will fit 604s stock, maybe 2xs. I can check mine for fits if you're interested.

The Gami 114 would be the closest match, but the pictured hooks APPEAR to be wider gapped, so might be a custom specific to those heads. Dunno, hard to tell unless in the hand. I've got 114 2/0 if you want to look at a few.

Did you change to a different type of lead? Ladle pouring is very finicky to harder alloys especially in the collar area. No offense, but sounds like your pouring setup is winging on the cheap? A decent bottom pour melter might make it a lot EZr.

Has anyone tried the 730BP which is the closest 32786 equivelent? I've never liked the standard 730 with the annoying outbent point but the 730BP might have been retooled with a more straight inline point angle? I've had so many soft wire - bad point issues with Eagle Claw I quit using them years ago but would really prefer to BUY AMERICAN if they can offer a quality product. Mustad's sorry decision to compromise their quality with crappy Chinese mfg. is a perfect opportunity for EC to step up.

The newer white box hooks point quality not as good, so looking for some 1,000s of the older ones. Shorty's, Barlows, & Jann's only have the newer ones. Any suggestions?

If you're looking for a less expensive heavy wire 90* round bend, have you considered EC 570H or Mustad 32833? The eye legs size for size might not not be the same as G604, but shouldn't be a problem for your injection casting. I think the other brands size equivelant of G604 4/0 would be 3/0, but think only the 32833 has the long shank.

I actually poured my SRH-6-14 with bismuth-tin alloy yesterday with 2/0 32729 light wire which is very undersize from the designed fit 604 4/0 or 5/0 heavy wire. About 1 jig head out of a set of 6 would have the eye completely encased with much harder than lead pour metal which I snipped off in stages with heavy duty gate shears, tedious but not terribly difficult. The other 5 heads had a minor bleed finger easily snipped off. So, yeah, the more undersize the wire the greater the chance of melt bleed into the hook eye socket. Haven't poured this configuration in lead yet. If you're not comfortable with modifying eye sockets, you can widen the hook shank channel on the bend side into a fan shape with hand tools. The collarless Tip Up head function probably will not be compromised by the hook shank exiting the head at a slightly different from 90* angle.

My apologies, I should have explained "significantly shorter eye leg". A 2/0 32831 interchanges in my 1/8 Shake-it which best stock fit is a 604 3/0. Have you tried fitting one size smaller 32831 than the recommended 604 size? Would you like to take your skills to the next level? Extending the hook eye slot upward away from the head to fit a longer leg hook isn't that difficult, tho if you're new to cutting with a Dremel a bit of practice on some scrap aluminum might be a good idea. I would use a 1/8" cutter bit, a bottom cutter would be versatile for most hook fit mods. I started with a Dremel, but now use a mini drill press for more precision control.

What style and weight heads are you using? Did you have to modify the mold to fit the hooks? I too am liking the Ultra Point 32833 for light salt water apps, currently the #2 in a 1/4 oz. custom is becoming my fluff jig choice for targeting local pan size species but perhaps a #1 might be better for pompano pier jacking. Hooks feel solid enuf to handle larger bycatch, but haven't had the opportunity yet.

Gamakatsu sizes their 90* hooks a gap size smaller, so looking at them, a 32831 2/0 is nearly identical in shape dimensions to a 3/0 604. The 604 is indeed heavier wire and has a significantly shorter eye leg. Sorry, no TipUp mold to check for fits.

For the feds, what I had to do was contact the IRS for an EIN # (Employers Identification Number) even if you are a one man home based bizness, like myself. This is your account ID for paying FET (Federal Excise Tax), which for the specific heading of "Sports Fishing Equipment" equals 10% of gross sales. For my volume of sales, I pay quarterly. You can charge this to your accounts or absorb the cost yourself. You can apply with the IRS for a Form 637 which exempts you from the 10% excise tax that many mfg / distr pass on to you when you purchase components used for "further manufacture" of your product. To the best of my knowledge this only applies to actual hardware in your product, not incidental supplies for your bizness, but many component wholesalers will allow the exemption for anything they sell. Some suppliers will ask for your 637 as a courtesy, but some don't and you need to let them know you have one. If anything I posted is in error please correct. I did this back in '97 and things might have changed.

I don't bass fish, so don't use shakeys, but on appearance it would seem a round ball head would compromise the upright standing bait by rolling sideways? Seems like a football head would be a better head for shakeys?

Yeah, best not to mess with a Collins. I modified a Do-it Tube-TX to fit most any 60* hook by enlarging the hook eye slots for a 4/0 32786. The pic shows pourable fits for 2/0 32729, 4/0 32729, 3/0 32786, and 4/0 Gami 2014. The lighter hooks allow a bit of bleed up the eye leg easily snipped off.

I like 32729s also - excellent fold resistant sharp points and strong for non-forged light wire. Older shiny ones seem better quality than newer blacker ones. Be interested in your application, if you'd care to post a pic.

Dave, why are you switching? As noted by Madbasser, there is no other brand swap available. Closest mold fit might be shorter shanked Gamakatsu EWG 2014 - the 3/0 size has a similar eye-leg-wire diameter to a 2/0 32729, but the 4/0 2014 is disproportionately heavier wire and wider gapped than a 3/0 or even 4/0 32729. Matzuo once offered a similar to 32729 light wire long shank 60* EWG - discontinued and very very difficult to find. I've got a few 2/0s left - if you're interested PM me. The bends are knock off identical to the 3/0 2014 but the shank is much longer.

Adam, how much do you want to spend on hooks? I assume you're targeting coastal salt water species? Mustad 91715Ds on the low end are stronger than 635 IMO but point quality of the ones I used to use was mediocre. But heck, an EZ Lap hone doesn't take long. Owner 5313 is expensive but super sharp & strong. They make an even stronger 3x hook that is too expensive for me to inventory, so I haven't examined any yet. Gamakatsu 604s usually do not interchange size for size with 635 having narrower gaps, shorter eye legs, and smaller diameter eye rings. Sometimes, a Gami 604 size or two over 635 might fit. Gamakatsu 2554 2x steelhead jig hooks have even shorter eye legs. Mustad 91725D is a long shank round bend heavy wire in between priced salt water hook that not many know about. Ultra Point sharpness & wire temper strength is as good as it gets. But, eye legs are shorter and point gaps are narrower than 635. Supposed to be made 3/0 thru 5/0 but Barlow's only had 3/0 size last time I checked. Forgot, Mustad 32833 2x steelhead hooks are a possibility, but they also have way shorter eye legs than 635. Barlows is a good place to compare brands & prices.

Dremel would work, drill press with cutter bit better. Sent you a PM.

The 34185 tinned hooks have a rep for strength, could it be that the stainless version isn't as sturdy? Which banana mold do you have? My JY-4-A looks to be easily modify-able for a 5/0 34185, so I'm assuming the JYS-4-A could be too? The in-line production model JY-6-1438 is not practical for a 5/0 34185 mod because the hook points would intrude on the next head cavity shank slots. My 3/8 size is modified for Mustad Ultra Point 91725D long shank 3/0 which IMO is the strongest hook available in that size. Sorry, don't have larger sizes but if you'd like to try the 3/0 version I could send you a few heads.

Yes, the classic Mustad 34185 short shank and 34184 long shank 60* hooks are stronger IMO than EC 413, but you probably know that since your list didn't mention EC. The classic Mustads usually need sharpening tho. I personally found the 90* long shank classic Mustad 91715 & EC 635 salt water hooks to be weaker and quit using them many years ago. Considering your selection as including Owner & Gamakatsu, maybe you prefer technically sharpened black nickel hooks? For 90*, that limits you to Owner 3x in the sizes you mentioned, altho the Gamakatsu 604 1x in your mentioned sizes seem pretty solid. For 60*, I personally have no problem with Ultra Point BLN at less than 1/2 the price of equivelant O & G. Will you be pouring Do-it molds? If so, what models?

Interesting design, since it seems like a keel would inhibit wobble?

After I posted this topic in '07 I started using Sickles in my light freshwater jigs more & more, & they worked OK. Sickles have a cult following especially among crappie jiggers, & I suppose they work fine for that. With heavier stress applications, Sickles seem to be prone to bend outs, and after a few I have kinda given up on em for personal use, except for the heavy wire salt water versions. "Gammy and Mustad both make a better hook." Agreed, my personal use freshwater & light saltwater jigs now mostly sport Gami 604s and Ultra Point 32833s. For micro trout jigs, I'm comfortable with high value VMCs. Haven't bought Sickles in years, since I too got stuck with the same probably bad batch of #4s. Was wondering what current Sickle jig hook quality is like, particularly the #4 black chromes?

Yes, good info, especially the sawdust flux. Gotta be careful I suppose to avoid construction sawdust which might contain nasty wood treatment chemicals. Jig head & sinker casting alloy requirements aren't as exacting as bullets, but I found the tin-antimony 50-50 proportioning advantages possibly useful.

This might be of interest. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21500-wheel-weight-processing/

Since the price of foundry grade tin is pretty high, currently around $18 US, I usually source with solder scrap from second hand outlets. My ideal would be 1-2 lb. solder bars from going out of business auto body repair shops with tin content varying from 30% to 70%, usually stamped on the bars. I would advise avoiding resin or especially acid flux cored solder wire as these create some nasty contaminant problems to deal with. Solid core solder wire is fine typically 95-97% tin content. Most of the forum bottom pour lead crafters use wheel weight metal which antimony(hardener) content also inhibits crust oxidation formation. But, antimony may negatively affect the ladle pouring quality when alloyed into lead. In my experience, 4% tin added to pure lead will not noticeably affect ladle pourability. Further, less than 3% tin will shorten oxidation inhibition longevity, and more than 5% is unnecessary and expensive.