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School Master

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Everything posted by School Master

  1. Just ordered a sheet, excited to see it
  2. I powder coat them with harbor freight powder just like 21. In all honesty, I can't believe it would make a difference if it's painted or not, but I'm so picky it bothers me when they aren't. I've had tons of smallmouth bite the weight when I'm bed fishing. Maybe a bright lead weight would scare 1 fish off a year, but that's enough reason for me.
  3. Let us know how the plasti-dip works, sounds interesting
  4. I've poured drop shot weights with the bass casting sinker for years. I love it because it has the amount of weight marked on the mold. The swivels don't fit in perfect, but it works well enough for me. Just from habit, I crimp every one of my weights before I put it on my line. I've casted off plenty of these things, now it's just second nature. It helps a lot keeping on especially when you get in a lot of rocks.
  5. I would order some the second it was on the site!!!
  6. Those vac form sheets are kind of pricey though aren't they Vodka?
  7. I've been trying to track down just a tray I could put in my bags for the same reason. I haven't had much luck though.
  8. Really awesome dude, I'm impressed. How did you create the original master?
  9. and yes to answer your question I just read the post name, not the actual post. Therefore not noticing at all that you already have the heads. Woops, going forward don't pour them with the weedguard hole is what I meant to say.
  10. Edge, instead of filling it with JB and waiting for it to dry, take some base pins and dremmel/sand them down so the sit flush with the top of the jig. It won't create the weedguard hole at all, and it blocks the lead from flowing everywhere. I have an arky head that I do this with to make chatterbaits and it works perfect. You might get a little flashing around the top, but it very easy to file smooth and much quicker than the JB weld method.
  11. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/17272-diy-tube-cutter-non-rotary/?hl=%2Btube+%2Bsplitter OR http://www.lurecraft.com/Plastic-Splitter-Press/productinfo/2X146/ I built mine similar to the top option. I know they both work well. The one from lurecraft is probably more of a quialitty product, but I cut a lot of tubes on mine with no problems and good consistancy. When you have the right tool, cutting tails and using injection molds is a really good option. You can cut a BIG pile of tubes in no time, if you have either one of these. Of course there are tips and tricks you will learn along the way to make your process work for you.
  12. I built one along the same idea as the Lurecraft one, if that is prehistoric mine has to be somewhere around big bang time period then. I cut ziillions of the things with out any problem. The one thing I haven't seen mentioned is salt content. If you are having tearing issues, my guess would be your plastic is too soft or you don't have enough salt. If you want super soft tubes, smallmouth is correct, injection is the only way to go. To get nice cuts, your plastic has to have some stiffness or the blades just smash it and tear like your talking about. Try hardener or salt, let me know if that helps
  13. Never made an inline in my life. I don't know if this could be a contributing factor, but it is a problem I have encountered building conventional spinnerbaits, so I figured I would mention it. There is a correct way to put a blade on. It is possible to put it on upside down. The cupped side should be facing backwards (towards the hook) when hanging at rest. If the blade is having problems spinning, try taking the clevis and blade off and flip it around. Try it again, see if it helps. Like I said no clue if that's the problem, just something to try
  14. Green pumpkin, unless the water is a little clearer then I will switch to green pumpkin. However if the water is any dirtier then I throw green pumpkin
  15. I wouldn't say a lot. I pretty much only throw it in the fall when I'm fun fishing. They do crush it though
  16. The 947 is a great little bait. It's a finesse type swimbait and I would call the action subtle. It swims and rolls well, but it doesn't have a huge woble and roll that some bigger baits have. Never thrown it on a drop shot, but I think it would be a great option. I've caught tons of smallmouth on the 947 on just a plain jighead. It's really does well in a little cooler water too.
  17. Anyone ever tried oils made for baiting and trapping? http://www.pcsoutdoors.com/fishshrimpcrawfishoil.aspx
  18. I took this idea and tweaked a couple things for my liking. It works very well. I can cut them WAY faster than I can pour them. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/17272-diy-tube-cutter-non-rotary/?hl=%2Brotary+%2Bcutter
  19. School Master

    Cadman

    CADMAN = The Man
  20. I have a funny feeling I will be checking both sites rather often. Can't wait to see Bob's new site
  21. Darkman and Mr. BrownPigs, just any FYI keep your eye out on Ebay. I got mine for cheap and it's almost brand new.......until I set the handle on fire, woops.
  22. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bass-Casting-Sinker-Molds-P299.aspx 1) I drop shot a TON. I too don't like "pencil" or "round". 2) This is the mold I pour for all of my drop shot weights. No modification neccesary. Just buy the line grip drop shot swivel, place it in the mold and pour. I pour a seasons worth every winter. Plus, one of the really cool things about this mold is that it has the size of the weight molded to the face of it. I switch weights a lot and it helps me a ton to keep everything organized. I will say the swivel dosen't fit absolutly perfect and sometimes you get a little flashing around the top, but I just pour them for personal use so it doesn't bother me. Nothin a little file can't fix.
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