Matt Moreau

LOL... glad im not the only one!!!

I am really digging auto clear right now Mike. Its simple to use, dries quick, cheaper and you only mix what you need. Draw back is toxicity, but I just open the garage, spray outside and wear a respirator. Cheers Matt

Deft has a Brushing Lacquer that works ok... Problems with it are you have to use createx Gloss coat over the paintjob otherwise it will wrinkle and it seems to react negativley towards soft plastics like worms and such. If those are manigable for you then you can get a quart for $20 at any Hardware store. Storage is easy and dries pretty hard.

Merry Christmas everyone!!!

Yup those are the best KO's of a RC 2.5 out. He also has a new website, think its www.bustinbassbaits.com

I use .035 on my bass baits and seems to be ok so far. If I were to do it again I would go .040 for added security but they were out when i was in the welding shop so I bought the .035. I can get spools for $10-$15 and they are atleast 3+lbs. I have made 50 or so hangers and not even dented the spool. no telling how many I will get out of it. I havent caught anything huge yet but a 6lb couldnt hurt the hangers that i caught about a month ago. Hope that gives you an idea. Matt

I put a few twists on mine just because I can. It gives me a bit of confidence that nothing can happen but like Bob mentioned I think its not needed/overkill. Once the 5 min epoxy sets that bait is not budging twisted or not(for a bass bait atleast).

Howdy guys, So I finally got some Createx top coat. I know this stuff isnt suitable for use on its own but I began thinking.... can I spray it on a finished bait and then dip the lure in something that I wasnt able to before like brushing lacquer or spar urethane. Before these would wrinkle the paint jobs, but I found it worked fine. A couple coats and days later and the topcoat was perfect. Has anyone ever tried this and really put it to the test? Both of these products have none of the storing issues like DN and I believe are 100% waterproof(need a submersion test to be sure though). From some of my earlier readings(couple years ago) I seem to recall that disavantages were; 1. not compatible with water based paints - now with a coat of createx top coat it is 2. Anything else? This could be an answer to a lot of problems if I havent missed somthing, which I probably have! The CTP only is very inexpensive and both urethanes are like $20 for a quart so its fairly inexpensive. Please let me hear the good, bad and ugly on this. Matt

Ya I have a 25-30 gallon tank. Not as big as I would like but plenty for what I will be using it for. I am excited to see how this clear works. I found some clearcoats on ebay that are a little better on the pocket book too and my buddy says that they are all pretty much the same. What are your experiences? can you reccomend an economy one thats like dupont or ppg?

I found a similar one on ebay for $20(Tax + Shipping = $30). Its a TCP Global house brand and looks to be the same as the minijet. Was the more cost friendly gun and I have had good luck with TCP products so I ordered it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200550118131&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Let me know your thoughts on this gun... Should work just fine I think!?!? Thanks Matt

After some of the tools and that AB i got from HF im a little hesitant to buy another gun from them. Anyone else tried that one from HF?

Great info here guys. I really appreciate the help! One more dumb question if I may... Can you reduce the clear with anything so it sprays better through an airbrush? When googling and seaching autobody sites it looks like there is a reducer for urethane clrears but not 100%. I have 4 Airbrushes but none have a .5 nozzle. 2 Iwata Eclipe's (.35), a Paasche tallon (.38) and a cheapo Harbor Freight gun which I think the testing will start with as I dont use it for anything... Just gotta figure out what the tip size is on it. Thanks again! Matt

Hi Guys, For those of you that use 2 part Automotive Clears and spray through your brushes I have a question or two... 1. After you spray the clear and clean the brush can you spray a waterbased paint without it fisheying? Are you just using Laquer thinner to clean it? 2. Do you have a brush dedicated to only spray clear? 3. What tip size are you using? Thanks Matt

I would like to try the new DN2 and the liquid plastic. Great news on the old formula too! What a great early christmas presant this is!!! Matt

Ya thats the one I have redg8r, but the first one was defective. Go figure it was from Harbor Freight! Got another one and hooked it up and no leak. The range on my compressor i have set is 32-40 psi. It seems to be ok with this new one. Now what secret product will help my painting skillz? lol i think thats a lost cause!!! Thanks guys for the help Matt

Hey FF, Thanks for the tip. I went and googled this stuff and looks cool but is the largest width you can buy only 1/2 inch? Matt

Ya thats what i thought but didnt know... It should be air tight I would imagine. :-(

Hi Guys, I need you help once again. I read that it is a must to use a water separator so I went out and bought one yesterday. I hooked it all up and turned my compressor on and the darn thing leaks from the air valve on the bottom. I am assuming that this valve is to release the water? is it supposed to leak maybe to have a constant draw? The valve is the same you see on a bicycle tire and I tride to tighten it but no luck.

these look a little off... could it be a new manufacturing process? http://www.basstackledepot.com/bagleybalsab1.aspx

Bob and Mark, I am only curious for the imersion test because I have been known to take 30 minutes retrieving a swimbait. Doing this on a couple casts will mean 1hr plus in the water. I need a topcoat that can take the abuse of long term water submersion. Thank you for testing it for me Bob I can not say how much you have helped me over the years and its appreciated!

Can someone take a test block that has cured for a bit and just submerge it for a day or 2. If this is a water based urethane im hoping it doesnt fail the water intrusion test. It sounds verymuch like Minwax to me... I wonder what properties DN has added to protect against this. Like I said before I hope this is as good as it sounds because im down to my last little bit of the old DN formula and would like to keep my business going with such a great guy and company like DN.

Thanks for the kind words guys means a lot! But I will move the tow eye up Dave and see what happens. These things are like pin cusions already and its super easy to fix so no worries moving it. And actually the bill behind the top lures tail sections gives the best action just in front of that bottom bill you like but the yaw is still too much for my liking.

Ya it was actually really easy with this stuff. Its aluminum foil tape that you can get at any hardware store. I got the generic Ace Hardware brand but I think 3M makes the better stuff. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1273881&kw=aluminum+tape&origkw=aluminum+tape&searchId=49774142984

@ Nitro.... You are absolutley right if you have a non billed bait. But from all my testing the more joints you have on a billed bait hinders it. I am looking for a hard thump from the tail at low speeds and without a bill or with multiple segments i cannot achieve this. If I am wrong please let me know but these are just my findings. @ Dave.... Here is a pic of a couple i have been playing tieh as of recent with a few of the lips i have tried. I can send you the other ones but they have either been butchered soo badly they are in the scrap pile or I have painted them for the practice.

My last jar of DN is starting to GEL hope this is availible to us soon! Would rather give Dick my money that buy some KBS!