Matt Moreau

Per the CA BOE internet page I read this is not true. You are allowed to have 2 garage sales a year and sell 3 items per year. That is using sites like ebay and such. If you go over that you need to get a sellers permit and probably a bunch of other crud.

I should have probably just pmed you Nathan....lol didn't think about that! I figured as much but i thought there would be a thresh hold. I will probably only sell a handful of baits so I didn't want to go through the hassle of doing the forms. I have a regular job and this is a hobby and i want it to stay a hobby!

Sup Guys, Please let me stress that I don't make and paint baits for a living nor do I want to. I do however make baits and paint for friends and i ask them to cover the costs. I recently made a big glide bait that has taken about a year R+D and a lot of money. I was thinking about selling some of these to offset the costs I have put in thus far. I have only so many friends that will buy a big expensive bait. Also I have people asking me on another website if I want to sell them because I posted pics and vids of them. That brings me to my questions; 1. Do I need any permits or business license to do this legally? 2. Are there loop holes like just asking for a donation? Also I read on the CA BOE page that you need a sellers permit for any sale of 3+ items a year. This can be on ebay and like methods for selling items. Also if you have 2+ garage sales a year you are required to get a sellers permit. I think that is just crazy! There are soooo many people that do not follow this. I hope that is just a basic guideline and not something that is really enforced! I was told that the IRS and state doesn't really care unless you are doing a lot of sales like over $10k a year. That is from another small bait maker and would make a little more sense. I wouldn't even come close to that or even 1k for that matter but I don't need to be hauled off to jail or have the IRS pop me for selling a bait. I am not against getting a permit if i have to it just is more trouble and time that I would have to put in. For something zoo small like i am trying to do i hope i don't have to go that route. Thanks Matt

put the tape on the bait over the eyes and press down so you get good contact. Then just trace around the eye edge with a utility blade and wha-la! I have painted a bunch of wavers this way.

Get one of the concrete sealers out that are being talked about. I am using AC1315 now and it works good...has some issues for top coat but as a sealer it seems fine. With Solarez as the top coat u should be good to go!

Anyone have ac1315 bubble a paint job yet? I just did and i think i know why but want to see what others have experienced.

I order mine from a few retailers online it just depends on the price. I get balsa in 3in*3in*12in... then I cut on a table saw into width i need. Many retailers will pick either dense or light for more $$$ if you request it. I usually order 6 or so pieces at a time and then weigh them. Really light pieces I use for making master blanks to mold... and the denser chunks i save for cranks. If you want i can get the last place I ordered from but i just search on line and pick the best price.

Epoxy is hart to beat for cost and durability. It does have some short comings tho like weight, clarity, discoloration, can peel if/when chipped and coverage on sharp edges. That said i still have lures from 5 years ago when i first started this addiction....err hobby and they still are performing well today. That said every TC has its own set of short falls. You need to find what works for your needs. Personally I did not like Polyurethane. I think it is one of the least durable but it is easy and cheap. For easy dipping and use concrete sealers seem to work good but most i have tried react to plastic. I think MCU is the best but storage issues keep me from buying it.

I think this is a troll request if you look at his other post too!

+1 I usually paint with auto clear so i just leave the rubber bands on till dry and cut off. Works perfect!

Ya kinda jakin this thread but but nice job Cougs! I have always admired your work also. Glad to see another TU member makin it work!

I use Denatured Alcohol but I think others have used thinner and such with success. I like to mix part A and B completely before I add a few drops of DA to the mixture...seems to work for me plus I think I read on here if you don't it could cause problems.

Just like everyone said a clean brush is a must. But I will tell you from my experience that is not the biggest culprit. I maybe clean my brush once a month if that. But I do back flush and clean after every paint color and when I am done for the night I pull the needle and wipe down. I bet the below is what's causing your issues; STRAIN your paint Especially createx blues. I use some panty hose under the cap of my bottles. Check for leaks Use soapy water or something that will buddle and show leaks. Spray it around your nozzle and cap Chances are you are not getting a good seal Either the nozzle and Use Bees wax or plumber tape to seal each section Develop good cleaning habits and back flush after every paint color change I have been using simple green with good results

Just understand that whatever you use to seal may not be compatible with the paint and/or top coat down the road so do a few tests before you have something nice you screw up. I would have to say the best most inert sealer is probably thinned epoxy. super glue is good too but hard to get a uniform surface at least for me!

Mark you are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for all the help you give us here on the site!!!

Like WoddieB said don't use AC on wood. I only use it on plastic and resin baits. That said I have tried a few different ones and I will not buy DuPont anymore unless I get a huge discount. I personally like the old version of Matrix Solutions Refinish line. It was cheap but good. My least favorite so far has been uPol. Moral here is you don't have to buy the name because usually that's all you get for the extra coin. Honestly I look on Ebay for decent prices and then look at feedback or google the manufacturer to see how people like it.

Actually they call it a touch up gun now and charge double what I paid...Its not really 40 oz they messed up its more like 4 oz http://www.harborfreight.com/40-oz-hvlp-touch-up-air-spray-gun-61473.html Used to be called the Mini after the Sata Mini Jet. No if you have a compressor from Iwata meant for an AB it will not work with HVLP systems and the hose will not fit. You would need a real compressor with at least a 20 gal tank to be decent.

Then yes u want flake and a larger needle. I never had good success with the createx gloss doing this though. I use auto clear and I bought the harbor freight mini gun to spray my swimbaits. It was like $20 and has lasted years no issues! Other solution is mix into epoxy or get a spray can of clear spray the bait and then sprinkle the flake on...its not nearly as nice but gets the job done.

Gino are you trying to have a full flake body or just some sparkle in the sunlight? If just sparkle there is no need to buy the 1.0 conversion. Just make sure the glitter u get is 0.004 or less.

I almost want to say its a knock off of a LVR D7...Kinda like an H20 too but they don't have that dip in the nose like that.

I do exactly what you are thinking and it works to some degree. It depends on the particle size of the material you plan on buying and how you apply it. Now in the automotive industry they don't use the term glitter so we need to define that. For our intents and purposes I would say Flake is bigger than .004, glitter is .004 and pearl is .008 and smaller. Anything .004 or larger will give you fits in an AB. I have a Paasche talon I use for pearls and glitter. It has a .66 needle and will still clog on the .004 if its too thick or u have an air leak. Its hard to get just right but maybe your .73 will do fine. I would just suggest a tiny bit of material mixed with a lot of Gloss and many light coats. I usually mix like a 1/32 teaspoon in a 2oz create bottle. then fill half way and see if it sprays. If not more gloss...if it does see if you get the coverage you want and if not add a tiny bit of glitter. Just remember a little goes a long way. Also the Gloss Clear isn't thick like true urethane enamel so with flakes they do not lay perfect and coverage is tuff. If you were thinking about laying heavy glitter or like pure flake I wouldn't advise it. If you just are looking to get that glitter look like on commercial baits when it hits the sun right then yes it works ok with .004 and better smaller like .008(this is more of a sheen than glitter). If you want to spray true flake like on an automobile then I would suggest you move to a true HVLP gun with a 1.0 needle. This works for the smaller flakes but you cannot be precise or anything with it.

Or Lure Parts online and Janns Netcraft

wow that's way better than my first, second, third.......20th bait! you are a natural!!!

I don't know who originally posted this years ago but its payed dividends for me!!! The next time you go to your local dentist ask if you can have the used bits. I take and boil them to kill any germs and disinfect... they have all kinds and gladly gave me a bunch. There are small end mill like bits they use and all sorts of other high quality little bits. You have to get the small chuck inserts or Go to any bigbox store or internet and get the adjustable chuck for your dremel. then you are GTG!