ravenlures

Why not just dip it. Any problem with that.

I made these jigs, since I live on the Menminee River in Northstern Wisconsin I made them really just for river fishing they don't get hung up on rocks very easy and they get unsnagged easer because they are lighter and bigger. Since I live on the river I made them for my self I have sold some and they seem to work well. Since this river the Menominee River is just loaded with smallmouth, if you can't catch a bass on this river than take up golfing. Wayne

Point Taken next time, thanks Wayne

They are hard plastic and weigh 5 grams or .176 ounces and are epoxy coated.

Here is a picture of jigs.

One thing I found out is plastic and humidity do not mix, since I do mixing in the basement I do it in the winter months when the humidity is down to under 40%. One other thing don't use paper cups they hold water, makes a big mess of the plastic, the first time I did it in the summer it shot out of the mold about 15 times it size.

Do es anyone make any jigs from a composit material, like plastic. I have made some with a mixture of plastic and iron, makes a greay slow fall.

I use a Vega duplicator with a old craftsman lathe with a indexable tool bit, works great, just have to leave enough stock for sanding smooth.

I tried two blades with a shim in between them and it worked, but it left a fine line in the bottom of the slot. I went to the local blade sharpening place and they made me up a blade to the right size slot and had it squared off, perfect slot. I also cut slots on the radial saw gives you more angles and is easy to do, just be carefull when doing the cutting.

I see that you either sanded or cut the bills, make sure that they are straight with the rest of the body, if not they will go all over the place, also I would put in some belly weight. You must do one move at a time or you will not learn anything.

Have you considered vibrating the mold as you pour. You can get them on ebay, I got mine from a old football game.

Just wondering why the pressure, is it the detail in the lure. I mix the amazing casting resin with micro balloons and have no problems. I just let it stay in the mold for 15 minutes.

I am having good results with the Sherwood Williams concrete sealer (oil based) just dip after a hour 4 to 5 times each and let sit for two days and great finish.

That answers that...........THANKS

Has anyone tried to make a mold made of aluminum on a 3D printer for pouring resin into it. A 2 piece mold would be nice. I was just looking at printers and the prices are down, can't say if they can do the job, that's why I am asking.

Did anyone ever consider buying the lip and making small adjustments to your lure to fit the lip that you can buy, it will save a lot of time. I know I make my own lips for a musky lure.

Have you tried using primer on the mold before you pour your resin into it, I do that with mine, I use Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer and it bonds to the lure, Then I do my sanding and use a filler primer then I go to my white primer then I use Create Paints, and finish off with HC Concrete Sealer about 5 dips. Size of lure 9" with lip. Hope that helps, I use Alumilite White Casting Resin with microballons.

Something I forgot I will use it as a sealer on wood also, let you know hoe it goes.

Well I tried some H C concrete sealer from Sherwood & Williams , it was the Oil based and seemed to work great but I have to do some more testing. It took 4 dips to get what I wanted and made them 2 hrs apart. It is glossy but not the real wet look that or depth that etex light gives but a lot less waste and less costly. The smell is not bad either, I do use a exhaust fan, but you can stick your nose in the can and not back up, like any of the urethanes. They do have a water base sealer that gives the wet look. So for now I will continue to test, underwater, with plastic worms and leave in the sun, I will just hang one on the tree and let it hang for a year. So my impression is I think its worth the try.

Before I get something like that I have to finish the house first which I have been building for 45 yrs. If my work area ever looked like that my wife would think I am nuts or seeing another woman which at 73 I don't need, but it really is nice when you just start but give it a few years and when you come up with a new idea every day you get the clutter which I have built up over the years, these darn lures can drive you crazy, but I wouldn't have it any other way. But then some guys are neat and then there's my group of guys, YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE, still hats off to you and your wife.

Did not purchase any yet but yes I plan on using it on Resin, Wood, and small plastic crank baits. I would like to have just one type of clear coat to use. I will also most likely use it as a wood sealer even though I only use cedar, but I would dip the wood to help reduce the raised grain.

Well I tried some KBS Diamond clear coat and it worked great on my small crankbaits but on the 8" musky lures forget it to many bubbles, so now I will try this H C concrete sealer from Sherwood Williams because it is sold in the area and Menards changed epoxy and do not have GST anymore. Let you know how it goes.

Has anyone ever used the H C concrete sealer from Sherwood William, looked at and it seems worth trying but I hate to buy a gallon and fine it its not that good. It is on sale for 29 bucks for a gallon. Thanks

Has anyone looked at the Garco stuff the other deck finishes Marine Paint www.poolandmarinepaint.com looks like I might try some out.

Has anyone used a pad printer for gills, scales or other desiged lures. Just thinking about it. Any pros, or cons. Thanks