bear21211

Nice Looking fish! Nothing like catching them on your own stuff. Great Job!!

Tee If you are talking about Z**ms Moccasin Blue try this. 2 oz. plastic 4 drops Scuppernog 2 Drops of Blue Fleck 1/8 Tsp. .040 Glitter These are our colors so you may need more drops of others.

I actually used 3/4 of my 1 cup pyrex to draw the circle or the 2/3 circle. You just need clearance for the valve.

Pigdestroyer Mine is 12" High at Front and 13" High at Back. The Width is 15" Left to Right The Depth is 12" from Front to Back. My Shelf I put in at 3 1/2" below Top Make Sure you put shelf in Level! My Shelf just sits between runners so I can remove it when I am doing Two piece molds. Let me know if I can help you. Bear

Looks like your elmers was to thick and is melting off.

Welcome Aboard Bosshog!!

This may get you in the ball park with a little brown added with green hi-lite. Blue Fleck Colorant

Smallie I have poured several batches of the new plastic. They put the plastic through a vacuuming vat for x amount of hours. You can incorporate air back into the plastic with improper mixing yes.As with All of the plastics we use each one has to be handled a little differently. This one is no exception. The BBCP is a thinner viscosity meaning it pours thinner and should do better on hard to pour molds , it is extremely clear, has a good texture and I ran several cups through the microwave that came out bubble free. I also poured 4 cups through the presto pot with the same results. It is not a replacement for Calhoun or any other plastic out there. This is just available as an alternative. Some guys do not like Calhoun plastic Some do not like MF or LC. We added this as an alternative. It is a little cheaper which I liked. It is Clear I liked that. We had it De-Aired to make it more user friendly in a microwave. We just started shipping it today so I am sure we will all start hearing how it works in the next few days.

The 3/8" holds more plastic retains more heat . Also less friction so the plastic flows better. I do not have a problem at all with flooding a mold. The stream on our pots will actually get pretty fine. I found the 1/4" I kept having problems when I tried to pour small stream. 3/8" works much better for me

I use the 3/8 hose barb fitting. My findings with the larger fitting I can actually get a smaller flow with less stopping up. The ball valve I use I do not have to use a bushing in pot. It has male and Female end

Wow I do not take it that far. You can get some adhesive remover and put in pot and valve and it will clean it spotless . I would go broke buying valves!

Most of the ones you see with horizontal valves are used for candle making. Problem with it is to far from heating element and it will stop up to often. We locate our valve as close to element as possible and use a full 3/8th hole tapped in pot. We have had a lot less problems than when it had the 1/4" hole with 3/8" valve.

Mike, your setup looks good .You did a great job. I normally use 2 to 6 cups when using one of my pots. Bass is correct when he says there is no waste. Get you some big zip loc bags. After pot has cooled peel it out like a skin and put what is left in zip loc bag. Next time you pour that color cut that stuff up and mix it with your new plastic. Your colorants are going to differ from supplier to supplier. Some make them stronger some make them weaker. We make ours stronger there fore takes less drops. One thing I will suggest to you when you are using Salt in your baits, I would suggest you adjust the clearance between your paddle and the bottom of your pot to about 1/2" . We have had a couple guys set their paddle to close to the pot bottom and ruin the finish in the bottom of their pot. The salt is like sand paper . Your setup looks good!!

you want the fiberglass resin tyler. if you buy the kit dont use the glass mat just resin and hardener.

tylered the Bondo resin is fairly reasonable in price and you can pick it up at most auto parts stores or building supply stores. It does a pretty good job for 1 piece molds.

one mans opinion versus another .......kind of like the Ford vs Chevy debate. Everything has its place at one time or another and for what we do I feel the Presto Pot can be compared to the sta-warm. It heats our plastic , keeps it mixed, does not burn or scorch it with a tiny bit of user input and will pour as many if not more baits in a day. Who cares if it is just us rookies that make them and not a big company. This is not aerospace its pouring plastic worm. The presto Pot gets the job done for way less money. In my opinion it does compare. I am not debating if the sta-warm is a good unit, I know it is. I also know that they cost way more. I also know I can tighten a bolt with a craftsman wrench the same way I can a snap-on. If I read anything wrong I apologize. The 2 objects in question basically serve the same purpose, they are tools of our trade for pouring our baits. They are both great tools regardless of what they cost.

Del Saying a presto pot does not compare is a little harsh....if you are looking for something that you can turn on and leave your plastic in for a couple of days without it scorching then yes, maybe the sta-warm is superior in that aspect.We compensated the bottom heating with a paddle design that mixes the plastic very well and allows the plastic the heat itself . Is it perfect absolutely not. But as far as what we do on an everyday basis pouring our baits.........For the price and ease of use the presto pot will pour as many or more worms in a day than you can with even the sta-warm pot. I can take 30 cavity's of your molds and by my self pour over 400 baits an hour. and with 2 pots never checking up can continue that for several hours. I have let my pots run at 325 degrees for over 3 hours and not had my plastic scorch. Not downing the sta-warm by no means they are a great product and have there place but for my budget, the presto pot can be compared and will always have a place at my pouring station.

2 cups should not be a terrible problem. I normally pour 4 to 6 cups but I have poured as little as 1 cup. I do not have the problem with the 4 blade paddle not mixing the salt well.I have found that if you are having glitter or salt settling to the bottom of the pot, you may need to move your paddle closer to bottom of the pot.When we build the mounting table for our pots we put about 3/4" fall towards the front of the pot. If you have your paddle adjusted right and flush mounted valve you should not have much more than a skin left in your pot after pouring. Bear

Dubs we have the Stinger Craw available Have to excuse my sloppy pour not real fun one handed.

Awesome Job guys. You guys rock. Mike you have been a great help to me and others you deserve all the success in the world. Best wishes and congrats!

Dubs Sent you pm

thanks mike.....I only hope mine goes as well. I saw my hand for 1st time today since surgery and yuk. looks like it needs to be buried will be long process but worth it.

Very welcome Jeff.I hope it speeds your production up. Thank you for your order

Guess I did not play by the rules. I am in process of trying to get the rules so I don't make mistakes when I post:)

Going to try this again maybe I Will not upset the TU Gods and get my post pulled again.Than you all for your well wishes and prayers. Bear