Basseducer

If you are still getting those groups of five or six strands after you try the abeve mentioned solution you can always stretch them and cut again.

Johnny, You can powder paint the lead or coat it with D2T to keep it from reacting with the plastic.

I use 1/2 oz. paper Souffle Cups that I found at a Smart and Final restaurant supply store. 250 for a couple bucks. I mix with a wooden coffee stirrer you get a bazilion for a few bucks and they are reusable. I leave any extra in the cup and use it to check the staus of the mix without touching the baits. Then next time I just mix the next batch on top of the last batch and a single cup lasts a long time.

That is not so critical as long as it is within the cavity. When a hook looses it's temper is becomes very easy to bend.The lead around the weakened part helps support it and keeps it from bending. I have never had a hook break inside the head and pull out, but there isn't any need to make them glow.

I do this all the time. As long as you don't hold the torch too close or get the hook red hot you should be fine. Just don't heat past the end of the cavity and that part of the hook will be withing the lead casting.

PM Sent

da big tuna, When I used to spray liquids I would mix my Etex or D2T 1 to 1 as normal and then thin it 1 to 1. for example 1 gram part A 1 gram part b 2 grams thinner I used Xylene because it was slower than most and gave you a little more working time. I sprayed it with a cheapie external mix airbrush. Be careful with the time if you mix large batches, when it starts to thicken, it's time to clean the brush or add thinner. I would hang my jigs by the hook on a rotary rack I made and didn't have any problems with drips since the coat was thin and didn't run. The rack hols 100 jigs.

archeryrob, When I find that I need to heat hooks or wires I use a small butane torch like the ones at Harbor Freight. After I put the hooks and wires in the mold I make a couple passes with the torch to heat them up, close the mold an pour. No burned fingers. Here is a link. http://www.harborfreight.com/micro-torch-42099.html

smalljaw, I seem to have the opposite problem with these paints. I recover 99% of the overspray and reuse it. As I keep spraying the paint gets consumed faster than the flake. Consequently I get a greater concentration of flake each time I recover. I called CS and asked if I could get just the paint without flake and they said NO.

smalljaw, I spray all my powders without coverage issues. The glitter is distributed evenly every time. In the rare instance that there is less glitter on a spot I simply heat it a little and spray that spot until it matches the rest of the bait. I use brown purple flake a lot. As you may have found that brown swallows glitter and it just doesn't show. In this case I started mixing my own. This just depends on how much you want to make and it will apply to most any solid color. 1 part main color (in this case brown) 4 parts clear gloss flake to taste (.008) This will give you an almost transparent brown that really shows the flake. You can darken the brown by adding coats. but the glitter will always be the same. Hope this helps.

Pete, I spray the powder so after the white or pearl base coat I just heat it a little and spray the back. Or you can tap the second color on like Cadman. That way all you have to do is cure.

Pete, Powder paint is very slick and most water based paints have a hard time adhering to it. You may have to give it a light coat and then come back with a second or third. You may also have some contaminants on the jig that would cause the paint to separate like D2T on a crankbait. You can also achieve the desired effect with all powder paint.

plasticpaul, I understand your desire to have shiny baits, but as you mentioned that your dull baits still catch fish. I for one can't tell if a bait is shiny or dull once it's in the water. Maybe it has to do with reflection or something, but once they get past a certain depth does light play a roll in this. I don't have any resin or pop molds, but I have treated some cavities on my aluminum molds with an etching solution to achieve a dull surface to make dull baits and they seem to work just fine. Just my .

Jann's has a 4" that has been around for a long time. Here is a link http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/netcraft-dominator-baits/520450.aspx I did not find a ring worm in the Luckycraft site, but I did find the same worm in the Luck "E" Srike site.

Merry Chirstmas and a Happy New Year everyone.

From the sounds of it I belive your mold is aluminum. Have you thought of sending your mold to another mold maker to have it copied?

cmayes, I have all three and have not had any problems with either one. One is the original and is not offered any more, but it still works great. Sometime I get a little puckring where the lead meats the blank, but that can be solved by heating the blank a little.

dsmblack, I just stop the mixer and draw plastic right from the pot then turn it back on between draws. The valve will plug during long periods of non-use. I use mainly top pour molds and as long I keep pouring it stays open. When it does plug I use a small propane torch to get it flowing again. Heat the area below the ball and be carefull not to catch the plastic on fire. If you do just blow it out like a candle. Hope this helps.

Hilts still has it in their online catalog, but shows out of stock. Maybe they have the insert as a replacement part. Here is a link. http://hiltsmolds.com/BulletSlipSinkerMolds.htm

jwest, Try these guys. http://www.nelcoproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?pid=524&cid=96

tubeman, Do you still have these?

ing, I have completely quit using by fluid bed and use only the spray guns. I have four guns set up on a splitter and can do four colors. It eliminates all the problems associated with fluid beds and it gives you a thinner more even coat. It also gives you a better distribution of flake.

rooster123, I adapted a sewing machine motor to hold a leather disk and mounted it to my work bench. The motor has a foot pedal and I just get the motor going and hold the jig against the spinning leather disk. It leaves a very smooth surface and I can keep both hands on the jig.

pbetzbass What part of California are you in?

Bama, The 604 that is mentioned in your link is a Gamakatsu 90 degree hook.