Basseducer
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Everything posted by Basseducer
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Gloomisman, I use them all the time for spinnerbaits, spoons and buzzbaits. They give you some nice blends on multicolor baits. They are the thing for painting those new hidden eye brush jigs, but I still like to dip everything else.
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moonlightn, As others have said, Welcome to the madness. Sounds like your already on the wrong track with Mama. I'm up in the Fresno area and I get down your way every few months. Have your people call my people and maybe we can do lunch.
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Yeah, I think we all learn better visually than with print:whistle:
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Man, it's always too much or not enough.
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tucker2, Try Upper Hand Scents, great stuff, really concentrated and good price. He's one of ours here on TU. Here is a link. fishing scents
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criggster, I think I have a couple of small aluminum pots for pouring plastic I don't use any more. PM me your address and I'll send them to you, just pay shipping.
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Pete, My sincere condolences to you and your brother firefighters.
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Bruno, That was a pretty cool tutorial quick and easy. Thanks for the info.
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Dude, The advantages are as you mentioned. Not being able to switch skirts also means that the shirt will not slide down the hook shank during a strike. Color placement is another plus, when you put an accent color on top, it stays on top. Since you can add your colors in layers, you can even put accent colors on each side. I use nylon upholstery thread, couple bucks for a bazillion yard spool at wally world fabric dept. The nylon doesn't rot and you can seal each knot nicely with super glue. I have not tried the wire so I can't help you there. Hope this helps.
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overspray, I used to use vinyl paint on all my lead baits. It is good stuff, but you still have all the clean up and nasty fumes. Plus you have to thin it 50/50 to get it to flow without spider webs. I now paint everything with powder paint. It is cleaner, faster, safer and very easy clean up. I use the powder spray guns and get some interesting combinations. You can also use liquid paints on top of powder for scales and other detail work, but then you have to clear coat to protect the detail or applied eyes. Hope this helps.
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clmasse, Welcome to the fray we call TU. look forward to seeing some of your stuff.
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I couldn't tell what kind of pot you have from the posts. If you have a lee pot, you can send it back to lee with a check for half the current retail price and they will completely refirbish it and return it looking brand new with a two year warranty. Just a thought.
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PM sent
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Better yet, show him the pattern those stockings made on a lure.
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When you reach in your pocket for change at the local Piggly Wiggly and pull out a hand full of spinnerbait blades and beads.
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There was a fellow here that was advertising them in bulk, but I can't remember his name. Maybe someone will jump in with it.
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Cadman is right about the cost. I bought a blank for about 40 bucks then took it to a local machine shop to have some 1/4 oz. drop shot cavities cut into it. that was before Do-it released their production dropshot molds. It cost me $190.00 to have eight cavities cut into it. Then about two months later Do-it released the production molds. I think you would do better by having someone like Shawn Collins make you one from scratch. Just a thought.
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Marion,
Good news about the job, are you ging to make seats for the entire line or just a few models? January tournament was not so good, only had two fish. February looks better (different lake). We are having a lot of problems with the lack of water, all the lakes are so low. Catch you later.
TJ
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Hawghunna, I make mine with a Matsuo Sickle Bend Hook and a round shaky head mold substituting a piece of wire leader for the screw-loc.
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Jig Man, I have used a micro torch or a pencil torch, they have a fine flame that lets you do close up work, just keep it moving. I have also used a soldering gun, but this takes a bit longer. Good luck.
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OK, I got it. I too have the Bullet Bass Jig and the Snootie. Sorry for the confusion.
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BigTimeBuzzer, I see the new Brush Jig, but not a new Grass Jig. Can you give an item number from their site?
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booneangler, There are many ways to wrap and protect the weedguard while powder painting, but for me it is easier to pour without it. Use the basehole pin and remove it before you dip and bake. ream the hole out with the appropriate size drill bit. I use a small cordless screwdriver. I them tie the skirt and glue in the weedguard with D2T.
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unfortunately you can't do fine work with them. You can blend edges and if you do it right it might look like a stripe. I have not been able to do spots or scales, but you can do detail with liquid paint then clearcoat.
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Taping the eye with high temp tape before you dip keeps the paint off the eye altogether, no chipping, no hot wires, no nothing.
