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Basseducer

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Everything posted by Basseducer

  1. I have settled on Worth Co., Spec are consistent and the quality is high. Price is tolerable.
  2. That would certainly be a factor. I know that buying plain unfinished brass blades and taking them to a local plating shop can save some money. It is a little more involved, but worth looking into.
  3. If your Senko had salt and your Croaker didn't this may have something to do with it.
  4. If possible I would also increase the flow rate. I also warm the blanks, but I do it in the cavity with a mini butane torch. Be careful on cold days doing this because it causes condensation and the first two or three pours it tends to spit a little
  5. Monte, have you got any interest in the 7" stick? Does it have an egg sack? And last, how much? Thanks
  6. I do like Debehr only with high temp tape. After painting I just pull the tape off the eye before curing in the oven. Keeping the paint off to begin with is easier than trying to take it off later.
  7. Well, injection allows you to fill multi-cavities in one fell swoop and is fairly mess free. With stick baits, top pour gives you the same results except you have to fill each cavity individually. You still have tp top off both methods in most cases. It is easy to top pour injection style stick bait molds, but not molds with thin appendages. With top pour molds, you can get away with a microwave and a pyrex cup. I started with top pour and graduated to injection, but there were not a lot of options then.
  8. I was pouring from a Presto Pot and did not need to re-heat. Although it did well for the duration of the session, about 30 minutes.
  9. It is holographic and the color needed for Yamamoto "watermelon violet"
  10. I have 5 BTS 3” Stick Molds for sale. They are 2 piece, 4 cavity, aluminum top pour molds. Used extensively, but in excellent condition inside and out. This is an ideal bait for Ned Rigs and other small presentations. They retail for $58.00 each plus shipping. TU price is $52.00 each shipped or $246.50 For all five shipped. Thanks for looking.
  11. I use the Badger mini sand blaster. Here is a link: http://www.proluresonline.com/Powder-Paint-Spray-Gun
  12. Mr. Moose, I like the mini sand blaster for all my wire baits. It gives nice even coverage and allows me to do multiple colors. I can give my jigs an couple extra shots on the chin where it drags on the bottom. If you miss a spot or the paint is too light on a spot simply heat that spot and shoot it again. If I get paint on the spinnerbait wire or the hook shank I just put the wire in to the groove of my pliers and give it a couple of twists before I bake it and that cleans it right up. Hope this helps.
  13. Back at ya, and everyone on TU.
  14. Have you tried cutting the candy color with clear? You can adjust the darkness of the paint to your liking.
  15. Use the 30 minute D2T it not only has a longer pot life it is water proof. The 5 minute D2T in water resistant.
  16. If your bubbling the base coat you have way too much heat.
  17. I must have been thinking of baby oil.
  18. Mineral oil makes them hard as a rock.
  19. I find that when I demold while the bait is still very hot it tends to be sticky. But after a day or two the stickiness becomes less. Then I package with oil based scent and the stickiness is completely gone. You might also make sure you are mixing your plastic very well before using.
  20. I hold it over my heat gun for about 8-10 seconds per side.
  21. Aulrich, I spray my spoons with Powder Paint. I use the Badger Sand Blaster. It makes it soooo easy. On the larger ones you can one side at a time. and even touch up any spots you miss. Not to mention multiple colors.
  22. I use my standard 350 degrees for 30 minutes. That is gold with black pupils. The only other color I have used is silver.
  23. I have painted eyes with Createx over Powder paint and then baked it. The paint came out o hard the I couldn't chip the eye off. I haven't tried clear PP over that so I have no info.
  24. Sounds like all the usual suspects have been covered. What I have found that works for me once all the above have been tried is to heat the hook. I load the cavity with the hook and base hole pin and wave a mini torch over the hook for a few second, close and pour. NOTE: The first couple of times you might get some sizzling if heating a cold mold develops moisture in the cavity And sometimes it spits..
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