Basseducer

I usually put two tabs plus any accent colors. This may differ depending what the customer wants.

Since a stick bait is a pretty simple cylinder, salt settling along the length of a bait laying flat shoule not be an issue. You could try cooler plastic.

Mr. B I always run all my powder paint through a sifter to break up any clumps before I use it.

Find that mold in the mold section at Barlow's and it gives you alternate hooks. Here is a link. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Midwest-Finesse-Jig-Moldbrwith-Wire-Keeper-P3414.aspx

I have a Do-It ARKY mold that has four 1/8 oz. cavities #ARK-18Y. It isn't on their site anymore, but you would think that there are other sizes out their. You can always get a mold blank and send it to http://pouritmold.com/ and have him make you what you want.

I believe that Ultra Molds was connected with Bear's at one time then they went off on their own. The big difference as I see it is that Ultra Molds has dedicated pots built specifically for their system. Bear's system uses Presto pots.

Mine has a humming sound, but not like you described. Then I usually set it and leave the room. Might get in contact with Eastman and see what they say.

It will work like Andy said and you will have a gooooy mess. If you have quite a few jigs and really want to save the hooks I would suggest using paint stripper to get the paint off. Then remelt the lead in the pot.

I have found that the retarder does thin the paint/clear as well as slow down the drying.. Thinner only thins and may speed up the drying. I was told that hot climates require the use of retarder.

There is one for sale in the classifieds.

If you go to USPS and enter the shipping address the system prompts you on what to do and print fees and all. I'm sure the other carriers will do the same..

I used to spray epoxy all the time. I would mix up my batch then thin it 50/50 with Xylene. I used a Badger 250 external mix airbrush. Cleaning was easy with this gun.

Paul Adams has a video on utube that shows how to make a jig for that. I don't know the name of the video, but search Paul Adams.

I drilled a hole close to the outer edge of the bottom of the pot. I then threaded it to accept the nipple. I use a half inch ball valve that I thread onto the nipple. It was all sealed with a generous amount of teflon tape. You can get different size tips for the valve that help regulate the stream. I had ti grind the nipple flush to the inside of the pot so as not to interfere with the stirrer. I run batches of 16 to 32 ounce most of the time. I have done 8 ounce batches, but rarely do them. It takes about 20 minutes to get a 16 ounce batch ready to pour. It will hold the plastic at temp for a long time. In any case you want to use it up as quickly as possible. I have not scorched any plastic since switching the pot and stirring system, I think you can still pick one up at Bear's fairly reasonable. There may be others

The black shimmer has tiny silver flake in it. You want the plain candy black. Over a nickle blade it will make a decent black nickle.

I have brought old blades back to life on a buffer with some buffing polish. It also seems that when you buy 3 to 5 hundred at a time you get some bad ones. The buffer takes care of them as well.

Benno, Welcome to the Frey. My pots have a stirring system witch I thing is essential if not mandatory, I pour in raw plastic, start the stirrer and let it get up to temp. Then general consensus is to get it up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit then lower it to around 320 to 330 working temp (this can differ according to your plastic). A good infra red thermometer comes in handy at this point and the stirring system keeps thing moving and allow for more accurate readings. It also works out any bubbles and helps prevent hot spots while maintaining any additives in suspension. My pots also have valves so I can pour directly into a mold or fill the injector from then. I can also stop the stirrer and fill the injector from the pot. Hope this helps and I'm sure you will get a lot of information.

You may have to start tieing them on. I made a few of those and tieing the skirt on worked well. I don't know about pre-made skirts.

Although the pop-up issue was resolved it didn't start until I completed a survey about TU on TU.

I think it was reacting to the plastic.

I used to do it with open pour silicone molds. The rubber would eventually get gooy and fall off., but it looks nice while it lasts.

Thanks Al, I think that might have done it.

I tried the Malwarebytes free trial with negative results. This only started after taking a TU survey about TU. I also tried running scans and clean-ups with Norton and still no relief.

I have used Bear's for many, many years without any issues.

Mr Curt, I recently completed a survey here about TU and now I keep getting these pop-up ads all the time. Please get them to stop or show me how to stop them. I also get a lot of words in the threads that are links to ads. HELP!!!