carolinamike

Cadman, 3 amp fuses are commonly used in heating and air conditioning units. These are used to keep the control boards from burning out. Any heating and air supply company should have them. These aren't the mini fuses. These are standard size. When I say heating and air conditioning supply company, I'm not talking about the people that you would call out to work on your home unit. It will be the store where they buy their parts. Most won't sell to people off the streets without working for a heating and air company, or without license. But if you explain to them what you want them for, I'm sure they'll sell you the fuses. If not, or you're not sure you can find them in your area, PM me with your address and I'll pick you up a box. They run between $4 and $6, and I think there are six or seven in the pack. Hope this helps.

I was wondering if anybody has ever heard of Premier Bait Company? I was looking for some contact info. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

Skeeter, Might I suggest you check into your crawfish situation first. A fish's stomach has very powerful digestive enzymes and acids, enough that they can actually melt fish hooks. Most of the time spit up crawfish have a lot of orange to them. This is usually due to the digestive enzymes. I suggest finding a rocky spot near where you caught the fish and set a crawfish trap, that way you're not investing a lot of unnecessary money in the items you need to pour your baits, such as coloring and flake. On the pouring part, I've used as many as four separate pots for multi-colored pours, always in one piece molds. The trick is to get the plastic hot enough that you get a good bond between colors, but not too hot so as not to distort any of your colors. It does take some practice, not with just the pouring, but also in the heating and coloring the material as well. And by the way, in the wild, I've seen live crawfish that have orange, red and even blue. I think it mainly depends on the body of water and type of crawfish. Anything I can do to help, always feel free to ask.

Eastender, When I do hand pours, I always add my pearl after I'm heated and ready to pour. Some white pearls may yellow a little during the heating and I also find that I keep my materials suspended better if I add it when it's ready to pour but you always have to stir. But Bear's right it's more of a preference just whatever you find works better for you. And on the flourescents, if your flourescent coloring is not dark enough or you don't feel like you have enough coloring added to your plastic, add the coloring to a small amount of raw plastic, mix it well, and add it to your heated plastic and stir it in. This is the only way I have got flourescent colors to do well after my plastic was hot.

We have a strawberry red with red flake and then we have redbug which has green flake.

Please PM me with your shipping information. Thanks,

Sorry Bamabasshunter I skipped you when I was reading the posts. Thanks so much, you're taken care of. I'll PM you and make sure the color list is right.

Hi Robalo01, If you're not a member and can't send a PM go to contact us at our website, and we'll give you our regular email address. This goes for anyone else that can't PM or would rather not post what they want. Thanks everyone,

Bear, Just PM me with your shipping address and a list of colors and how many lbs you want. We take Mastercard, Visa and Paypal. Thanks so very much! Mike

Swede, Sorry for not responding sooner. The kids start back to school tomorrow, so we've been real busy. I'll calculate the shipping tomorrow. I'll check on both UPS & USPS GLobal to see which one is the most economical for you. I will need you to PM me an address, so that I can calculate your shipping. Thanks for the inquiry, Mike Greene

Yes, the runners do have some garlic scent to them. We use the same amount of scent in all of our plastic, but for some reason it seems to come out smelling stronger in some colors. Thanks for the help Jerry! Like Jerry said, runners are the core that run up the center of large molds and the baits branch off of each side. If you can make out the knots on the side of the runner in the picture, that's where the bait is actually plucked from. And Jerry, we appreciate TU's classified section, and the regulars all seem to be a great bunch of guys, so we were more than glad to give the TU member discount.

111 used LC molds all in great shape. $4.00 each or $350.00 for the lot. Here's what's left. Mold # Qty 562 - 5 670 - 7 713 - 7 159 - 9 376 - 4 596 - 10 745 - 5 476 - 3 483 - 7 514 - 7 740 - 5 36 - 3 111 - 1 347 - 14 wooden frame 347 - 18 no frame 555 - 1 300 - 2 554 - 1 208 - 1 1 round senko type

These runners are in various colors with scent and flake added. The price is considerably cheaper than liquid plastisol, coloring and flake. I personally have not used them in hand pour but a couple of guys have already purchased some and we are waiting for feedback. I will post the feedback be it good or bad. Note: All green pumpkin and watermelon variations have black flake also. Here's the colors: green pumpkin, green pumpkin/red flake, blue flake, green flake, purple flake, orange flake, pumpkinseed, pumpkinseed/red flake, junebug, junebug red, watermelon, watermelon/red flake, purple flake, watermelon candy, black, black/blue flake, red flake, gold flake, black emerald, black grape, bananaseed, pumpkin blue, orange pumpkin, redbug, scuppernong, scuppernong/red flake, arctic blue, pearl pepper, chartreuse pepper, charteuse/gold hologram, with more colors to come. We take Paypal, Mastercard or Visa. Bananaseed shown in picture. I will try to get more pictures up later. Prices - $2.50/lb TU members $3.00/lb all others.

Hi guys hope everyone is OK. Just trying to get an idea if anyone would be interested in purchasing plastic runners. These are runners from the mass production molds. For example, one of my molds has 86 cavities. The runners are the center of the plastic in which the worms are picked off of. I have recently accumulated several pounds in a variety of colors and thought maybe you guys might be interested in them for re-melts. I can use a certain percentage back in the raw plastic but there is still going to be left overs. I really don't want to go into a lot of the details about price but I thought I would sell them by the pound. I'm just wanting some opinions good or bad. If we decide to do this we will offer them for sale in the TU classified section with a list of the colors that are available. They will already be colored with flake and scent. You guys are so great about voicing your opinion, I would really appreciate your help. I can sell them back to my plastic company, but they want to pick up a large amount of drums full at a time and truthfully, I don't have that much storage space. Thanks,

King Bait Co., again someone that's been misled by the big plastic companies. Remember quality is not important to most big boys, it is all about quantity and profit. High production injection can produce a very high quality bait, a large amount in a very short amount of time. It's up to whoever is operating the machine. Our company is all about quality plastic. We can make large quantities that are comparable to almost any hand pour. Don't get me wrong, there are limitations in high production, but a person that cares enough about the product and willing to put that extra flake, salt, scent, and very close monitoring of the equipment will produce a very good product. Anyone interested in some information about high production PM me and I'll be glad to answer your questions but as most people have probably already read, it's very expensive.

Yes Jerry those particular molds are still available. We have been so busy with a couple of large orders that I haven't had time to update the list of what molds are left. I'll try to get this done by the weekend. PM me for the transaction information. Thank you,

Man, I can't believe this. I did miss the poll about paying to use TU because we've been so busy the past couple of weeks. I've really not had time to check things out. Let me try to help you out some Jerry. After seven years of hand pouring in a very small town in NC where the number one word in fishing is "secret", TU was one of the best things I've ever seen on the internet. It does so much for hobbies, businesses, and the sport of fishing. I've spent a good part of the morning reading about this whole subject. From my personal experience, it has been a privilege to use TU. I have both given and received very good information from this website and I understand exactly what you're talking about when you say that the advertisements do not pay for the site. Thank you for such reasonable advertising costs, which would definitely be unaffordable to most people anywhere else. For instance, it cost me $2000 wholesale worth of products to get an advertisement in one major magazine and then $90 per month for a very small ad in FTR. Your costs were more than reasonable. I offered a discount to TU members and you worked with us on creating the banner. You've always taken your time to answer any question that I've ever PM'd you about and that's what people aren't understanding here. Tell them the many hours you've spent putting together a great website like this and never receive anything. Anyone out there that works for an hourly wage should understand the value of an individual's time. For someone like myself with just a high school education the value of my time it what I use to support my family. Why should yours be worth any less? My wife customized our small website and I remember the many hours she spent typing in front of that screen and the trouble she has to go through to do updates, seems like you're always in this constant state in order to provide the very best website for us all. Again it's a privilege and I will be very pleased to pay to be a part of this organization. Take my money and put it in your pocket for all your time and consideration for answering a lot of questions from those people who aren't as considerate. Again, I thank you and all the moderators for your valuable time. It's kind of like when you go from hand pour to injection, nobody likes change. Your friend, Mike Greene

Kev, I think 6 of the molds may already be sold, the 3 #423 molds and 3 of the #514 molds. I will add 40 more molds: LC #347 Wooden frames 15 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #347 No wooden frames 18 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #555 1 mold $5.00 LC #300 2 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #554 1 mold $5.00 LC #208 1 mold $5.00 2 LC round Senko type molds $5.00 per mold. Making a grand total of 132 molds altogether minus the 6 molds if the other member decides for sure he wants them, looks like 126 molds left. $675.00 (less than half of what we originally paid for them) for all remaining 126 molds. If the other guy decides he doesn't want the other 6 molds I will throw them in if you take the whole lot. We accept Mastercard, Visa and Paypal. This offer is for any member, first come first serve. Thanks, Mike

92 used LC molds for sale. Would like to sell sets together but will split up if need be. All are in good shape. Check LC's catalogue for pictures. LC #562 - 5 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #670 - 7 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #713 - 7 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #159 - 9 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #376 - 5 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #505 - 1 mold. $15.00 LC #367 - 4 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #797 - 2 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #596 - 10 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #745 - 5 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #476 - 5 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #483 - 10 in set. $6.00 per mold LC #514 - 10 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #740 - 5 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #36 - 3 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #423 - 3 in set. $5.00 per mold LC #111 - 1 mold. $5.00 Prices do not included shipping.

Smallie, They way it was explained to me was that non bleed colors were true pigments, and that bleeding colors were actually dyes. And the reason that colors aren't consistent is because most places cut the coloring down with plastic softener or other additives. Chartreuse is one of the prime examples of bleed and non bleed. Clear chartreuse is actually a powdered dye. The non bleed chartreuse, which is slightly opaque, is a true pigment. It's actually the consistency of something like maybe mayonnaise. Think of it as a thick paint. That's the reason you'll see a separation in some bottles of color. That's where the pigment or dye has settled.

See, you're in trouble now. You mentioned that "W" word (wife). You've already got all this information on how to feed your addiction, it won't be long till you'll be hunting for your own little separate room or garage to try to make peace with Miss "W". Good Luck! I don't think they get over it neither. If I can ever be of any help, just let me know. Mike

Listen to Al on this one. You'll be much better off with liquid plastic. Then save your used baits if you want to play with re-melts. That way you know exactly what's in your plastic, but keep in mind, that it still won't be the same plastic as when you first started. Adding a little plastic softener to it before you re-melt it helps. And as far as this addiction goes, I've never met anyone that has been rehabilitated. It's with you till you die!

D3, How long did you heat your plastic? I've used Lee's pots for years. I usually set the dial on 4 or 5 and it takes about an hour to fully heat the plastic. Around the consistency of pancake syrup is what you're looking for. What size Lee pot are you using? If you're using the small one, watch your temperature. My small ones tend to heat up faster than the large ones. I add my coloring before I heat my plastic, and then add salt, scent and flake after the plastic is heated and ready to pour. If you're adding salt, watch your temperature. It tends to build up a little more after you add the salt, but to me, it sounds like you're not getting your plastic hot enough. Don't worry, this happens to everybody when they start pouring. Warning, THIS HOBBY IS VERY ADDICTIVE! You'll start out making for yourself, then a buddy or two, then some local guy at the tackle shop will want to buy a few and before you know it, you're a junkie. And as far as I know, there are no rehabs, unless the lakes dry up.

Thanks guys. We really do appreciate it very much! I'm working on putting together a color chart for redfish and trout now and considering that I'm 200 miles away from the ocean and never targeted either one of these species, although I did catch 3 or 4 trout off the pier one time at the beach, so I was really in the dark. Sounds like everything's going to need bright flashy colors or either a chartreuse tail. But there is one other thing I am wondering about. Is the plastic that I use for my bass baits sufficient for saltwater? I was thinking that it would be considering you are not fishing the open ocean. Again, we thank you so much, this website never lets us down. It's guys like you that make TU such a great organization.

Does anyone out there in TU land know anything much about redfish and trout fishing? I have someone interested in some baits for these species, but living in western NC, I'm not sure which are good colors. You guys did such a great job helping me out when we asked about favorite colors across the US. We did end up doing, by the way, a field test for North American Fishing Club. We sent out green pumpkin, watermelon, green pumpkin/green shine, pearl white black flake, and arctic blue. The arctic blue is a real light clear blue with a small amount of highlight, some hologram and blue flake, and it made a great looking bait. I'd appreciate any help on this one, I'm stuck in fresh water. Thanks,