goolies

I have been using a similar method for years to what is shown in the youtube video posted by JD. Instead of the coins I use 1/16" thick polycarbonate discs formed by a jewelers hole punch set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010ZM6EW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and an arbor press. I like the lower frequency sound produced by the polycarbonate compared to the tinny sound of thin metal. I use either steel or lead balls.

I print them, cut them out and glue them on with a glue stick. This allows me to also show locations, angles, and sizing for lip slot, line tie, and hook hangers.

I seal my balsa baits with thin super glue and I like how it hardens up the outer layer of the balsa. A respirator is a must if you try this.

In my limited experience with Balsa it appears that the density can vary greatly. I would recommend weighing any blocks you purchase and calculating the density before you start making lures.

Well, dang. Hopefully someone else has a source. I have also bought Midwest Products Balsa at Hobby Lobby. It was expensive.

I bought mine from midwestproducts.com and balsawoodinc.com.

I still use twisted wire with my larger PVC baits but I have also switched them over to superglue from epoxy.

For the line tie and hook hangers on my balsa bass baits I use cotter pins and super glue. I predrill a hole slightly smaller than the cotter pin, fill the hole with super glue using a disposable microtip, then push in the cotter pin. I've done pull tests on them after they are dry and the balsa will break before the cotter pin will pull out. I use epoxy for the lips. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C32MENO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.mcmaster.com/98401a421

To me making new lures is fun and painting is a necessary evil.

So many are painting now because so many are willing to pay. IMO owning more than 3 to 4 colors of any one lure is ridiculous. It's also ridiculous to think you need a lure that has been painted with 8 different colors and 3 different stencils to catch a damn fish. On Lake Erie for walleye, it's become all about spraying a lure with 3 to 5 unnatural colors and giving the color scheme a catchy name.

LOL! Paint patterns or schemes cannot be owned by any one person or company. I find it ironic that a custom painter is complaining about someone ripping off his paint scheme, when he is putting that scheme on knock-off lures ripped off from other manufacturers.

I like to make rattles that produce a lower frequency sound. There is plenty of scientific study available that suggest fish cannot hear the the higher frequency sounds transmitted by a rattle with BB's. https://www.geoexpro.com/articles/2011/03/marine-seismic-sources-part-viii-fish-hear-a-great-deal https://biasproject.wordpress.com/news-from-the-ocean/fish-and-sound/

Dave - You may be able to prove out your theory using a video analysis software. I have had success determining the frequencies and amplitudes of waggle for different crankbaits and comparing them. I use this free software: https://physlets.org/tracker/. I video my lures by pulling them down a test tank connected to a tram on a track with the camera mounted to the tram right above the lure. The software allows automatic tracking of a designated spot on the lure with a defined reference frame. The software basically plots points on a time vs distance scale and creates an equation for the sinusoidal curve. I don't see any reason why this couldn't also be used to track and plot roll and track and plot porpoising (from the side of the lure if you have a side window in a test tank). Here is a video showing the use of the software: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocLQFMMLIGw. You only need 1-2 seconds of video to do the analysis.

I have only poured into a supported silicone mold to get a finished body. I have not used the 8# to produce any finished bodies yet. Are you molding your own blocks with 2-part liquid?

Yes, I'm also talking about 2-part polyurethane foam. I have 8lb to 20lb densities. I couldn't get a paintable surface with just the foam. I also tried coating the foam with UV cure Solarez, BSI epoxy, and a quick cure polyurethane plastic. Could not get consistent results with any of these as base coats.

I worked with foam for awhile, but I had trouble getting a consistent suitable surface for painting.

I'm working on a 2-1/2" flat side shad bait made from PVC that is just over 3/8" wide. I'm using #6 hooks and the best belly weight for mine ended up being 2 gram. Your bait is 1/4" shorter than mine, but Balsa is more buoyant than PVC. My guess would be that anything over 3 grams would be too heavy. Just a guess tho.

I have been using a vacuum seal canister for about 10 months for storing my KBS. I mixed 1 qt. of KBS with 6 fl. oz. of Xylene and I have not had any problems with it curing in the canister. There are a bunch of vacuum seal canisters out there. This is the one I have been using. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A1B46IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1