JSC

Frank ... That is the way to go .... Producing is one thing but Package & Marketing .. Promotion is all another Ball game .. Some have the ability to do it all but to do it big time takes a LOT OF MONEY ... Good Thread Guys 90 to 100 + degrees is tough and a older guy like me does it the same way as you ... Sweat it out....

"This thread is a great argument to use software to control the manufacturing process. Building a bait is the the same thing as creating an assembly using materials in different amounts to build an item, say a car for instance." I have done quite a bit of work in "FileMaker" & have made a data base for myself ... yours does not have to be as complex as the one I have worked my self into. The Screens below are a couple of screens used in the "Products File". The Components have "Drop Lists" on each line from the "Material & Components File" .. You can see how the costs & profits are figured (Note from the Gross Profit you have to deduct Over head ... Electricity, Office Stuff & etc. which is general business operations.)

Good Information Mike ... SHK put the final touches to it . Now add the distribution costs to it ... also the discount rates from retail down to what your profit would be Example: Standard Industry Minimum Discounts (Quanity, Anticipation, Early Buy, FREIGHT & etc not included in this) SRP (Suggested Retail Price) 1.00 ... To dealer is less 40% (sell to dealer for .60) SRP (Suggested Retail Price) 1.00 .. To Distributor is less 50% & 10% (Sell to distributor for .45) Standard Commission Rate to MFG Rep is 10% off of what he sells it for. (Commission .045) It all adds up in a hurry.

Just a quick note on the use of Nail Polish ... It is good stuff BUT do not let it get in contact with Soft Plastic (Such as a Trailer) 2 cents worth Good information by CM on ratios.... & ... Powder Paint Just to add on to cleaning (which as suggested is the way to go) Remeber to "FLUX"

No Mark will not work .... Send it to me

Just had to add .02 cents worth. One thing to remember in this Plastisol Biz ... if you get a container that has been drawn from a 55 gal drum and for some reason was not mixed correctly you will not get the results you were looking for ... As hard as the "Re Distributers" try they can make a mistake (we all do that) ... And it may have come from the "Compounder" in not the normal mix ... I have see this happen ... I think this is why we see so many different results by users ..... Mixing every drop of it is very important for it to be consistent ..... Don't be to quick to "Down" a product with out considering this factor ... what seems to be the best today maybe the worse next time.

"A Snagless sally, even though the wires are too far forward". The wires as shown on the photo you posted can be bent back.

Here are 3 different configurations of the Old Sallies A - Is the 4 1/2 Gold . regular Sproat Hook which is keel weighted (the entire bait is gold plated) Note the brass body on the spinner shaft ... (the original was "beaded" as in "C") At one time the "Wicked Widow" was the name given to this configuration. B - -Is a special with Indiana style blade .. in this configuration it runs shallow. (note old burke plastic impregnated with a fabric mesh to make it tougher is used for a trailer on this one) For years you used only Uncle Josh Frog for trailer which by most, was doctored up by trimming some of the belly fat. C - Is a smaller size in Nickle ... this was the original design ... beaded shaft. Note on the Skirts. The Plastic skirts work the best .. They are installed in the "Streamer" design (if you reverse them the extra flare will cause the bait to spin) Only a couple of places have the plastic skirts and that is Hildebrandt & I think ... H&H. This bait has a very interesting history To long for here .. Xcept that Lew Childre (not singing Lew his son) got them to make it .. In the Mobile Delta the "Yellow Sally" (weighted body Fly ) with spinner & Uncle Josh Frog was a top bass bait.

Wire used either SS or Music wire ... .022 & .024 Either size works OK ... Bend as shown ... Open Eye of Hook so that you can slip the "Looped" section onto hook .. with both of wires inside the"Eye" bend the eye of the hook closed and adjust to proper postion (With a little practice it gets easier) A Rig is with a small eye hook (makes it more weedless) B Rig is with a big eye hook. A & B are both rigs for plastic. The "C" Weighted Hook .. The "Keel" body makes for a better "Sally" type Spinner bait. This should get you started. Will post more information on the "Sally"

I have bent the wire for making the weed gurad that the sally uses. Will try to get a pic of how I do it. I use it on a swim jig I have made for many years .... To use this type weed guard you need to use a large eye hook to make it easier .. I have been doing it the hard way with a small eye and doing a little extra to get my line thru the small opening that is left .. 14# mono is about max. SS are used here on the Gulf Coast in big numbers it will go a lot of places that a "safety Pin" type will not run .. The Avitor of mine is with a 9# + on a Sally several years ago (Yellow is the #1 Color .. Gold Balde #4 1/2) Will try to get the "How To" out shortly.

X2 On coating with Powder Paint or Epoxy ... With a translucent bait you can get some great coloring by varying the color you paint the inserted object with.

X2 to all above plus MAKE SURE TO FLUX !!!!!! Keep the lead CLEAN.

Just a little sub note: I think it is hard to beat starting out with the basics ... A Ladel & A Cast Iorn Pot & a source of Gas Heat .. When you go to a bottom pour you will need it to clean lead ... Now this will teach anyone the basics of pouring lead (along with the tutorials that I wish I had acess to many years ago). This will help you to see if you really want to go further into this "Black Hole" for money. I started (after 10 years AF) with a ladel only and a mold ... Do not be shy of askin questions

Goober it all takes a little time and trying a few things ... what will work for one mite not work for another ... Just dive in and you will soon find what not to do .... Like Cadman says "Practice" // If you don't mess up a little ... means you are not doing any thing.

Mark .. Also check out TJ's Web Site They have some of the best Videos on Powder Painting.

I belive that you will find that both Worth & ROSCO are made in the USA

Hi Pull a Search on the subject and you will find a ton of information ..

You can use it for straight cast & retrive, Bottom bounce and Troll In the pix it is used as a cast & retrive (not bottom bump) the head design prevents "Twist"

I think the attached is better than words .(Sorry the quality is not the best)

I have never painted any (Sinkers) poured this way but it appears to be no noticable residue.

You can use it as you stated but if I am correct it was made to hang a spinner on the wire and form a "Loop Lock" to attached the hook (Dressed or un dressed) (Loop Lock is the best way I know to descripe it I guess U could say "connector"

One thing that works good with pull pins ... Use a bar of soap .. After each pour " pull" the pin across the bar of soap (do it in the same place to make a groove in it) .. needs to be done after each pour .. works good

Lee is better used just for pouring (cook plastisol in Micro and then pour into lee) The Presto is for cook & pour ... get one with stirrer system. DO NOT USE THE LEE POT FOR LEAD WITH PLASTISOL !!!!!!!! Pull a SEARCH in this Plastic Forum and you will get all kinds of information on this subject. Good Luck

Thanx for Sharen this one Mark ... JSC

MERRY CHRISTMAS & A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL OF YOU !!!!!!!! .. Jim C.