bass1jay

If you are using a liquid paint it will be difficult to keep the paint out of the weed guard .You could build a fixture and hide most of the weed guard and spray your paint I have done 1000's like that before powder paint came out.I prefer components sytems powder paint with a fluid bed availabe at TJ's Tackle then baking your jig at 225 to 250 for 25 minutes makes a super tough finish.You can poor the head without the weed guard paint them and then glue the guard in as far as molds DO IT Corp has many styles with optional steel pins in place of the weed guard while pooring.Pull out the pin paint and glue the guard in after paint is cured.I still like the powder paint the best.Hope this info helps.

Steve, I use a toaster oven for baking the rack is about 5 inches high.All ovens heat a differently you will have to try different cure times and heat to prevent fraying.I also use a baking timer as not to forget I have a batch in the oven nothing worse than the smell of molten weed guards!!

Here is a company I have done business with when I was making spinnerbaits www.hagensfish.com they will probably require your tax # you can order on line.I would call them if your first time customer. They have great quailty products they produce all there spinner blades in house. I don't think you will be disappointed.

Here is my method reverse your fiberweed guard while pouring lead. The fused end of guard will prevent flaring during the bake cycle at 250-275 for 20 minutes. Then cut off the fused end after curing saves you 2 steps this way.If you are tying your jigs then the way to go is use the pin method.I hope this helps.