bobv

Yeah, I started the same way and figured out to start with a bunch and move down adding more as needed.

The only time I get fish eyes is when I try to "stretch" the finish. Put it on thick and use your brush to level it out quickly and put on turner.

Yes that will work. I've been using the same qt. for almost a year now with that method. Use a good quality brush that holds a good amount of finish and I go around the top and dob a bunch of finish around. Then reload brush and quickly brush down on all sides to make sure of coverage and hang to drip. Do not over brush just quick light strokes.

I use Dick Nite over Createx all the time. Heat set each coat and dip or brush.

When I use a paint that doesn't like DN S81, like Badger, I always spray with Createx gloss coat, heat set then dip or paint with the DN. I use some Wicked Colors and as long as I heat set before using DN I have no problems. I wait at least 24 hours before applying a second coat of DN.

I haven't tried Lureworks yet, but none of the others are red enough....... Thanks for the replies

I found some old posts but thought maybe someone has come up with a new mix. Need a reddish scuppernog like z--m or netba=t.

Satellite City makes good CA glue as well, they have regular, gap filling and super gap filling.

If that haze is wax or any other residue, I wouldn't put anything on top of it. It would have to be removed to assure the second coat would adhere to the first.

Good point Mark. I've been carving some flat side cranks which need quite a bit of ballast so I think this stuff would be ideal.

I'm thinking since it's an epoxy it should harden the wood as well as seal it. That would be a bonus for balsa.

WD-40 is 80 percent solvent. Whatever the lubricant it's not much!

Saw this today and was wondering if anyone had tried this on wood baits. The penetrating part sounds interesting especially for musky/pike baits. Bob http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1269&campaign=email022613

Mark you can get a gel coat repair kit that does a great job. I have fixed a ton of scratches and gouges and they hold up quite well. Gel coat will bond to itself much better than a polyester resin will. I tried using resin to repair gel coat before and it doesn't hold up well at all.

There are paints made specifically for boat bottoms, google boat paint. I don't think you need to put a clear over them.

I don't think that would work for long. Even epoxy, which sticks much better than Polyester, would crack and chip off when applied that thin and over such a large area. One of the problems with resins is they are more brittle than other types of clears. On small areas usually not a problem but as the area gets bigger and the coating thinner it will crack and peel. There are some products on the market made for painting boats but a jon boat is not a prime candidate as the aluminum will flex. I would check with someone at West Marine or other places that know boat paint to see what they recommend.

Epoxy does not absorb water, as long as the bait doesn't get cracked or chipped to the wood it is OK.

Be careful on buying the cheapest. Many boat builders shy away from PE in general as it can absorb water over time and in a high heat environment it can de-laminate. Most that use PE finish coat it with epoxy. So I wouldn't assume all PE is the same.

I don't know if I would want to dip using acrylic paints Richard. If you thin them too much they don't cover as well and if you put it on too thick it takes a long time to cure. A thick coat of acrylic heat set runs the risk of skinning. A layer of dry paint over a layer of wet paint. I suppose if you baked them for a bit perhaps it would work. With any extra steps it sure wouldn't save any time. I shoot mine in a vented box inside and don't have any problems. It's way too cold up here to shoot in the garage!

I had to turn off the ad block program in my browser to even open the home page. It has loaded extremely slow for a while now.

Do you warm your mold before shooting?

That is a good point Mark. Adding anything to polyester resin will weaken it both sticking ability and strength.

I mix it with Createx clear coat brush on heat set then clear with what ever.

I use mainly Createx and heat set between coats. For foil I use BriteBak. I think clears that bond with the paint do a better job over foil. Most resins we use sit on top of the paint.