gadawgs

the sides of the bait look to flat

That looks awsome. I really like the "gliter like finish. What did you use to get that?

Thanks man.I've really learned a lot reading your posts along with everyone elses.

I still couldn't get to upload to the gallery, so I will just post it here.

I managed to post it in the forum but when I tried to post in the gallery it said that the file was too large or a bad file. I deleted from the forum because I didn't think it should be here.

you convinced me not to carve scales. I would post pictures but I'm probaly the only 19 yr old that doesn't know how. I can get em on to photo bucket but after that I become computer illiterate. I meant to ask before where is the best place to order microballoons.

I have almost finished my master and was wondering if I need to seal it with elmers glue like you would for a plaster of paris mold. I carved it out of balsa wood.

Thanks again. I will try to keep you updated.

I was thinking I could mold it one piece then cut it into a different number of sections depending on what I wanted to use each bait for.Also, does anyone have any thought on how well an rtv mold will hold detail? Just wondering if it is worth carving scales into my bait.Will they show up? And last, specifically what kind of aluumilite resin should I use? thanks again for all help.

anybody else?

First of all, thank ya'll for all of the help you've given me previously and I'm sorry I have'nt been to help ya'll as much. secondly I've decided I'm going to make a mold of my swimbaits using alumilite. So, exactly what materials do I need?(what type of resin, ect.) How well do rtv molds hold detail? And should I mold my master as one piece and then cut the joints or should I cut the joints and and then mold them individually? I'm afraid I will mess the master up trying to cut the joints first, but I don't know how diffilcult it will be to cut them into the resin bait. Thanks again.

awsome!

when nyou baits just so you can repaint them.

I'm having the same problem using a paint brush. Any advice? not trying to highjack.

as much as i love building and painting my bluegill baits and even though I don't have the money I think I'm going to have to buy one. I love that picture that that rotates in the beginnning of the review. If you haven't seen the review check it out.Tackletour.com

thanks

I need some help painting this color mainly what colors do I need to mix to get the rootbeer color or something similar. I'm using acrylic paints.

I didn't meen to imply that move the weight forward in the head would eliminate the head motion but it most cases it will significantly reduce it.

the farther forward your weight is in the nose the less of an s pattern it will have.

personally I would move the weight thats the closest to the line tie in the head of the bait to the tail section and and keep it as close to the hinge as possible. Also try to keep your weight as low in the body as you can with removing weight. in other words drill a slightly larger hole. Hope this makes sense.

are we talking about not stripping wood or plastic baits?

when I used soft plastic tails I used a half spring like the kind from a fat pen.

thanks for the help and confidence boost. I plan on using a maginet in the back to hold the hook( thanks JRhopkins) but I'm still working on how to get the bait to land upright.

i've built other swimbaits and they've all been lipless but a snake would be a completly different shape.

I've been wanting to build a snake bait type swimbait but want to be able to work it over weeds and such too. problem is I would need it to be lipless but every snake bait I've seen has had a lip. Would it be possible to build and still get to swim or would I need a lip to be able to create a vortex?