bass100

I think the only reason the big boys baits aren't as good as the hand poured guys baits is because they are not checking every bait and they are not using the quality products in their baits as we are but as far as an injection machine not making a good bait is probably very false. It is not the equipment that makes a poor bait it is the bait maker and the products he chooses to use to make the baits. As long as the bait maker is using good quality products in his/her baits and the quality of each bait is checked it really doesn't matter if it is hand poured or injected.

Mend-It Glue will save you thousands of dollars. It will repair your soft plastic baits. Go to http://mend-it.com to watch the video.

I don't know if it is dangerous, or not, because I haven't used it or know anyone who has used it but the initial steps have been made for the little guy. There is by far not enough pictures or information about it to even think about buying such a machine, exspecially at that price but I bet it will get alot creative people thinking.

At http://jacobsbaits.com there is a neat injection machine that he has created. I don't know if it can be used on all molds. He states it is for twister tail molds.

Thanks Frank. Mold is sold pending payment.

I have a 3.5" Beaver Mold for sale. This is one of the original molds me and Delw worked on unfortunatley this is one of the ones that I could not hand pour. I did make the vent holes in the tail a little deeper but it still could not be hand poured with ease, however, this would be a great injection mold. It was very difficult to get the last 3/8" of the tail to hand pour but with injection this mold is a breeze. You do not have to split the tails on this bait as they are already split when poured. I will sell this mold for $100 which includes the shipping within the United States. Paypal only please.

Basstackle has added more new molds to the new ones they just put out last week. I think that is 20 different baits in less than 2 weeks.

Hey Guys, Our waters iced out up here in the last week and a half. We decided to go out and try our swimbaits with 3D eyes and without 3D eyes. We had one color swimbait with 3 different color eyes and no eyes. We caught 19 smallies and 5 of those came on the swimbait with no eyes. So right now I am thinking the eyes are more for the fishermen than the fish. Of course I will still have them on my lures because they look so good. Has anyone else done any tests like this and would care to share their results?

What size and color 3D eyes is everyone using? Just trying to see what the most popular ones are.

I did the same tests on a few different brands of eyes and Lurecrafts did not bleed on me. I looked like they were going to start to bleed but they did not.

Sorry for the previous post as it was incorrect. The super glue is not the problem with these eyes it is the plastic clear paint. I painted the eyesockets with clear paint and let dry. I then attached the eyes with super glue and let sit and there was no bleeding. When I coated over the eyes with the clear paint and there was then noticable bleeding. So I then painted over a few eyes (while they were still on their paper backing) and the eyes started to bleed without any super glue. So the problem is the clear paint for plastics. However, I do not have a bleeding problem in my process and I believe I have figured out why. The clear plastic paint is a barrier between the eye and your plastic bait and although the clear paint does cause the eye to bleed it does not bleed into the plastic unless you break that barrier. In other words they only way that I have been able to get my baits to bleed is when I don't get they eye on correctly and I have to reposition it which causes that barrier to be broken. I have done several baits with the eyes being glued on correctly the first time and none of them have bled but all the baits I intentionally repositioned the eyes on have all bled 100%.

Frank I was able to duplicate your problem. When you apply the super glue it must stay on the back of the eye, if it touches the outer edge where the red color is it will cause it to bleed. I did some samples and where the super glue is applied it will eat away the clear paint which is fine it still provided that barrier from the eye itself but when it touches the coloring of the eye it will eat away at that part of eye. So just make sure you use a tiny amount of glue on the center of the eye and don't push to hard and you are fine. I have other colors of eyes but I have not noticed any bleeding. I have also experimented with other types of super glues and the results are all the same, however, there are other brands of slow drying glues that do work but it would take a long time to do up some baits. So if anybody knows of a fast setting glue that does not react with the clear plastic paint and more importantly the eye please let us know.

I have used just about everyones eyes but I just got eyes from Bogs baits to try. But I am still looking for quality eyes for a good price. You either get quality and pay for it or you get quantity but again you got what you paid for. I believe I have found the source for quality and quantity and am waiting for some samples to come in. If they are the quality that I hope they are then I will be selling them because the prices are great.

I use the lurecraft clear plastic and none of my eyes bleed. Frank do all of your red eyes bleed or are you getting a couple here and there. I have over 100 white swimbaits with red eyes that have been on the rack for about a week now and none of my eyes are bleeding.

We have had the exact opposite results as D.J. here on lake Erie. We found the baits that float up get bit a great deal more than the ones that don't and we have tested alot of major manufactures baits out. So I don't think you can go wrong either way.

My Calhoun plastic is neutral bouyant. If I lay it on top of the water it will float, if I push it under it will stay under. My Lurecraft plastic float great.

Nova is correct again. The powders will not stand alone when mixed. They will combine to make different colors although not as drastic as liquids.

I use 3D molded self stick eyes. I put a coat of lurecraft clear plastic paint down were I want to put the eye, wait about a minute for it to dry. Then I stick the eye on and paint over the eye with the clear plastic paint.

I use 2 ton epoxy and thin it with dentured alcohol. I get about 30 before it sets up on me.

I don't know about the salt to plastic ratio but I have weighed a 5" Yamamoto Senko and it weighs 169.9 Grains.

Sounds like you just need to shake your plastic up really well. The hardner will settle to the bottom so make sure it is shook really well.

The dents are nothing more than the plastic cooling and shrinking. You will find that the dents are more problematic in baits that have alot of smooth area or not as much detail in the mold for the plastic to hold onto. Sticks and Flukes are usually problem baits for dents. Simply pull the baits out of the mold when they are still a bit warm and put them in water to let them finish curing. Since I started doing this all my baits are now dent free. Hope this helps and be carefull not to pull the baits out too early and burn yourself.

From the research I have done if a barcode was bought before 2002 it can be resold, but after 2002 if cannot be resold. If you buy your barcode from GS1 the barcode is good for life, however if you buy your barcode from 1 of the other 5 companies that sell barcodes, it is good as long as the company you bought it from is in business. If you buy your barcodes from one of these companies and they go out of business 5 or 10 years down the road it could be devastating enough to cause you to have to close your business down.

Does anyone know much about purchasing UPC barcodes. I am aware that you can buy barcodes from GS1 which are the only acceptable codes to the largest retailers like Walmart, of course you would have to be a member which has a start up fee of around $750 and a $150 anual membership fee and each bar code is around $80 unless you buy package deals. You can also buy used UPC bar codes that are no longer in use and these will cost around $8 per bar code (accepted by almost all retailers accept Walmart ect.). So if you are selling five different lures in 20 different colors you will need 100 different UPC barcodes, that is alot of money in barcodes. So does anyone know a cheaper way to obtain barcodes.

I pour 2 and 3 color flukes and I have no cold cracks. I heat my molds on hot plates I get at walmart for $25 each. However, I do use gloves to pour with because my molds are pretty hot. I do this with all my laminate baits I pour. Sounds like you just need to get your mold hotter.