GCD

I've started curing all of my powder paint base coats before applying another coat. It really cuts down on the dripping when heating for another coat or final curing! It also increases durability in my opinion. The high temp engine paint and clear coat sounds interesting! Let us know how it works for you.

A cheap oven thermometer from Wal-Mart ($4) helps a lot. Also, when selecting a toaster over, buy one with a high and low rack setting. I have an old oven with just one rack setting and it's too close to the element. I had to modify it. I've also started using Christmas tree ornament hanger wires to hang my jigs by the eye in the oven. One hook thru the eye of the jig and the other end over a rack rod. It works well. You just need to practice with your new oven and you'll get the hang of it!

Well I wasn't offended. The CWJ's really are a good jig, and I like them down here because nobody else uses them and the fish aren't used to them. It takes practice to fish rip rap correctly. With a presentation that attracts fish but doesn't cost you a lot of jigs. Staying just above the boulders and pecking the occasional one. The jig with the "curb feelers" sounds like a good idea... but are fish going to bite it. My fish have a pretty good amount of fishing pressure on them and want a natural presentation and are very size sensitive. A jig that doesn't get stuck in the rocks but doesn't catch fish either would be of little value to me.

I tell ya, those wobble jigs aren't worth a hoot!!! I don't know why I spend so much time pouring and painting them. Tackleunderground Home - Luremakers Photo Gallery - Wobblehead jigs I never catch anything on them... honest!

It might have been easier to melt them again, but I really do hate to waste anything... the hooks and the time it took to pour them. I'm not really crazy about polluting my melting either. It was more or less just an experiment... that actually worked!!!

I had seen this question asked in other threads here and had wondered about it myself. I'd tried a few other methods (burning, sanding...) with little success. Then I spied an old bottle of this stripping gel in the garage the other day and thought I'd give it a try. It's non flammable and has no noxious fumes (smells like oranges!), so it's safe for indoor use. I poured the gel in an old bowl I now use as an ashtray and put some jigs with a less than desireable paint job in. I tried removing the paint after letting them soak for an hour... no go. Tried after 2 hours... still no go. Decided to let them soak for 24 hrs. Success! The stripper turned the PP into a latex like consistancy with goo underneath. A couple swipes with a little stripping brush and a sharp streamed blast from the garden hose, and they came out pretty clean!!! A couple had some small stubborn spots so they went back in to the stripper. Some rubbery like paint remained on the hook eye and shank and was cleaned off with an old toothbrush and utility knife. The stripper is in the paint section of Wal-Mart.

Cold water, I like pink and black or pink and white. Warm water I like chatreuse and white during the day and chartruese and black at night... but that's prolly just me!

I consider melting and pouring lead an outdoor activity... painting is a little different.

I use both black and white for base coats and have found that the base and top coat will behave better if the base is cured before the top coat is applied... especially during the final curing process! I watched a tutorial ( not on this site) yesterday of someone powder coating a jig with fluorescent chartreuse paint, although the jig looked ok, I could see the lead bleeding/shining thru in places... and I know from experience that the color would've been a lot brighter had there been a white base applied first. ... but to each their own.

I've found that for me, trying to clean the jig eye out while painting is awkward and drags out the painting process. I like to paint all my jigs first and then clean out the eye before curing. I use the needle sharp cabide tip of a concrete backerboard cutting tool (available at Home Depot or Lowes) to "break" the paint in the jig eye and ream out the eye with an acetylene torch tip cleaning tool. The torch tip cleaner has various size wires for different size holes. I also use the straightened out jig hook with the barb piched down on some of the more stubborn hole before the tip cleaner. This works best for me.

Thanks for the welcomes!!! I just live a hop, skip, and jump down the road from you on Hwy 77 Jason!... and I fish the lower end of Henry, down by the dam. I'm looking for some plans on how to make a fluid bed for powder paint if anyone has some laying around. I'd be much obliged for any help!!! Thank you! Glen

Hey y'all! My name is Glen and I live in central Alabama. I fish the Coosa River reservoirs, Logan Martin and Neely Henry mainly. I also love deep sea fishing and try to get up to Canada once or twice a year for toothy critters. I'm a multi-species fisherman. I started making my own jigs (Cabelas Wobble Head) this past summer and discovered I really love pouring lead and powder painting!!! I make these: To catch these: I've also been known to harass Crappie, Catfish, and landlocked Stripers on my home waters. I really like this site, and have already for some good tips and pointers here. I hope to be able to contribute something of worth someday. I hope all y'all have a great day!!! GCD

Yes, there are some here that have their toaster ovens mounted upside down. I saw it mentioned in a painting thread I was reading yesterday. I'll see if I can find it again. Here it is. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits/11957-jig-production-baking-powder-paint-jigs.html