oscarsteel
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Everything posted by oscarsteel
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[center][img]http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/oscarsteel/OSCARLogo-4-2.jpg[/img][/center] [size="3"][font="Century Gothic"]We specialize in providing custom paint schemes on all types of hard baits and baitcasting reels. We can put any of our colors or your own creations on any type of crankbait, topwater, jerkbait or swimbait. Our paint schemes are being fished and winning tournaments all over the country. We provide an edge for the serious tournament fisherman or the casual weekend angler just wanting to catch more fish. All of our paintjobs are protected by a super tough yet lightweight clear coating. Unlike a lot of custom painters we don't use epoxy for clear coating. The UV stable coating we use to clear our baits bonds to the paint for a lure that will hold up well to years of hard fishing.[/font][/size]
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I order them from Lisa and Ed's eyes. They are a sponsor here and great people to deal with.
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I know. The address has changed to www.oscarbaits.com I tried to change it on here but it won't for some reason.
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Net Man, This is one of my most popular colors for a craw pattern. I have sold this color all over the country and had nothing but great reviews. Hope this helps you........Oscar
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Bob is right. I forgot to mention it will shoot best with a .3mm tip. I have also thined a whole bottle like you said. It never worked for me. I still had to thin each time I needed that color. As far as what to thin with, I would say try them all and go with the one you like the best. I use isopropyl alcohol. It does react a little different with the paint than windex. I have never tried the Floetrol before. I may have to try that myself.
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You can thin it with windex or alcohol. I like the alcohol myself, it evaperates quickly helping to dry it faster. Sorry I don't really have a ratio. I thin to the consistency of milk by feel. If that makes any sense.
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I have done it with no problems on larger baits. It will make the bait heavier and add more bulk.I guess it could affect some baits like suspending lures.
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I don't heat up the baits but I do hit them with a blowdryer after I apply the epoxy. It levels it good before it gets to the wheel. If I'm useing D2T I warm the bottles before I mix it. That really helps it go on better.
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That is a serious drying wheel Mr. Hughes. I hope I need one that big someday. I just finished making a new one that holds 45 baits at a time. I also enclosed it to regulate the temp. I used a heat light that keeps it at 84 degrees. It really helped to speed the drying time.
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Thanks Mark, I have been playing around with some cedar I have and its going to take me a few trys to get this. I'm like you said more confortable working with wood. I have some scrap molding we use around windows and doors that is a composite its called ztrim I think. Its white and comes in 5/4 x 4" I was thinking of useing this stuff if I can get the wood one made. Thanks for the info very helpful:yay:........Oscar
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I have been painting lures for a while and now am ready to start making some baits. Being a carpenter by trade I can make just about anything from wood. I want to make some swimbaits and think I understand how to weight the sections and make it swim. My question is, what is the advantage to pvc baits? Should I try using it for my first try or should I stick with wood? Also do most of you buy your lips or make them? If you make them from lexan, Where is a good source? I have been looking in the gallery at some of the swimbaits they are amazing. I can't how real some look!! I will be happy if mine looks half as good. Thanks.......Oscar:teef:
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No it is not illegal to repaint and sell as long as it is what you say. I would make sure to put custom painted Rapala. I found out the hard way about copy right imfringement on ebay and my website. I was selling lipless crankbaits and called them rattle traps. I thought I was fine as long as I didn't list it as RAT-L-TRAP. Well the lawyers from Bill Lewis lures informed me that any form of the word is copy righted by them. For useing their copyrighted name they told me they wanted $25,000 and they would not persue it any farther. If I had that kind of money to give them I would not selling lures. I would be out fishing..........Oscar
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When you say production painter how many per week or month are you talking? I assume you are wanting them hand painted....Oscar
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jcarman, How do contact these people? They have some bodies I am interested in. When I try to email them it says the email address is not working. :?Thanks for the info on this site.....Oscar
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Thanks for the info downriver. That may be what happened. I use polyethylene cups for mixing and it didn't melt but it was close to it. I have been using the same bottles of etex with no more problems....Oscar
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I know what you mean Mark. I use our basement for a workshop. I have a system but no one can tell. My wife use to try and keep it cleaned up and organized but now she's given up. She just don't go down there anymore. Probably a good thing. .........Oscar
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I think now it wasn't the glitter. I have done some baits with it since and not had any trouble. When it done blew up on me I had a full cup for doing a bunch of baits. I think the amount had more to do with it. It could not breath the way it should. I think I will only mix small batchs from now on. I like to fill up my drying wheel when I coat them. I guess I should have made my wheel hold ten baits instead of twenty. Thanks for all your opinions. I know where to go for good informed answers. :worship:You guys are great. I really appricate all the help.....Oscar
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I have been useing etex for a long time with almost no trouble. I tryed putting some polyester glitter in my final coat the other night. I may have added to much because when I did I guess it caused a chemical reaction of some kind. The cup I mixed it in became so hot I had to put it down. Then in about ten minutes it was ruined. It set hard in 30 minutes. Has anyone here had this happen before? I have used this glitter before with no problems in less amounts. I was going for a heavy glittered bait and I got a mess instead.........Oscar
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Hey Heavy, I like minnow netting like you find on those little nets for cathing your goldfish. I but the large ones from wal-mart and cut off the net. Its about the right size scale for me....Oscar:popcorn:
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Dutchman, I use them for all my spinnerbaits and football jigs without adding any soft lead. They seem to take abuse from rocky bottoms better than the softer lead. Just make sure you have the mold hot when you pour. I heat the mold, hooks, and wire.....Oscar:wink:
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I bought some epoxy called super glaze this winter. I'm not sure if its the same as you have but it chipped very easy. I have used both devcon and etex and my opinion is the etex is hard to beat. Very easy to apply looks like glass and more cost effective than the devcon. I would like to see one of your baits done with this stuff, I may try myself:teef:...........Oscar
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They look great! You done a fine job....Oscar
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Its a Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap. I buy them at Walmart or Basspro and sand off the factory paint job then paint them how ever. I also have looked for some with the dorsal fin and never found any. I have used the ones from Jann's and they work really well. You get like 5 for six bucks, but no fin. I buy a lot of these for my kids they lose about six every time I take them fishin, .............Oscar
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Bassman, I looked everywhere for a craw pattern stencil when I started painting. I don't think anyone makes one. My first trys at making one was not good. It took me about ten trys to get one that looked right to me. The one I use now is made from playing card with an exacto knife just like Bobp said. I like the card because I use it on many differant baits. It works well on flat or rounded baits. I attached a picture of one of mine done with the stencil I made. The stencil its self is not very detailed. The best teacher in the world is trial and error. ..........Oscar
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Thats a good lookin bait. Nice job.
