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Muskyman

TU Member
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About Muskyman

  • Birthday 04/21/1960

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    hjemmett@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.freewebs.com/fishmasterlures

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  1. Hi Spike, I always have used the dipping process, but I do it with a product made by Blue Water Marine Paint Company. It's a super tough high gloss or satin mostly used for the wood decks on boats or ships. It's called Mega Gloss Polyurethane Topside Enamel (White Primer). This stuff seals your wood baits permanently, dries in 4 hrs @ 75 f. Dries great on a drying wheel. -Muskyman
  2. BruceKY, I found that out of all the different spray fixatives out there the one that worked best for me is found @ any Michael's store. It's Krylon
  3. Thanks loads Pete for posting this, as it was extremely helpful. Up until now I had been doing it by using a solder torch to heat it for the bend while pressing the lip on the end of a table. Worked anyhow, just not to accurate. If you could, would you send me all the pics you have on your method & how to construct your wee bending machine. -Cheers! The Muskyman;)(Y)
  4. Better get your computer checked, it's not the TU site Vodkaman.
  5. Thanks Guys for all your suggestions. I was actually able to work it out nicely from some of your suggestions added with a stroke of imagination from myself. I added the fins on by using stencil cut craft tissue paper, some light coloured, some transparent depending on the lure, then using a lead pencil stroked on the fin thread lines. Once clear coated it worked great. Cheers! The Muskyman!
  6. Hi Guys, I did a search for this in the forums but came up dry. I was wondering if any of you can give me any tips on how to add those translucent, see through types of fins that I've been seeing on a lot of the baits like Tiggers. I was trying to figure out if they were done this by a stencil or an adhesive tape form, but am stumped on how you make them see through. Any help is greatly appreciated. -The Muskyman
  7. Helmout, EX-74 is a 2 part kit, one is the resin the second part is the hardener. On Kidder's site just type into their product search, EX-74 & the 2 part kit should show up for you. -The Muskyman
  8. Thanks Rollo. I really was impressed with all the really obscure stuff that he carries & plan on doing a lot of business with him in the future. -The Muskyman
  9. Hi Helmout, You'd want to use ULTRA SEAL 3.785 L to seal your wood first, with or without your print added on the wood or with just the paint on it. Because I make so many Muskie baits I buy the ULTRA SEAL 3.785 L size as you save big in the long run. After that you'll want to use the 2 part kit of EX-74. EX-74 is an extremely clear, tough, high gloss surface coating formulated to produce a deep glass like appearance in a single layer on a sealed surface. Two or more layers are often applied for added depth and protection. EX-74 has been formulated for improved UV resistance to reduce yellowing and surface degradation from UV exposure. EX-74 has an extended "open time" which allows up to 30 minutes in the mixing container at 70
  10. Thanks to all with answers to my question. I'm on the track with Dickie Moores lures, as I've ordered from them in the past. Just didn't recognize the blades I was looking for on their site, but I have now. Thanks again all. - The Muskyman
  11. Hi, this company will have what your looking for and some. The company's name is Kidder & their prices are good & shipping is very fast & awesome. Here's the link to their clear coats page. You can either order it on-line or phone it in. Hope this helps you out. http://www.kidder.ca/products.cfm?CatID=111 From a fellow Canuck-The Muskyman
  12. Hi Guys, I'm wondering if any of you fine Gents, having time before the Super Bowl...lol know where I can purchase or make the kind of churning blades that are used on baits like the Bucher "Super TopRaider" or baits like it. Thanks for any in put you might have. -The Muskyman
  13. I agree with Sidewinder, as I patented my product & before I even had it into mass production the Chinese had ripped it off by altering the look just a bit. I found that if your going to do it, a patent doesn't seem to really make that much of a difference as others will rip you off anyway at least that was my experience. The best thing to do is design your product in such a way it's not easy for others to copy, & even if they do yours can be made in a way that works better or looks better. An example of this is what happened to the floater by Rapala, loads of look a likes out there by the Chinese but it doesn't look as good, hasn't the quality or the performance. Just my experience, for what it's worth, hope it helps you out. -The Muskyman
  14. Thank-you to all of you who answered my question with special mention for both Clemmy & BruceKY, for their answers. I'm to lazy to do it the way Bruce does, so I'll go Clemmey's route & just buy them for $8.50 for 100 @ Barlow's...lol Thanks again to all, Cheers! -The Muskyman
  15. BruceKY, the way you did yours is exactly what I want to do...where did you find that kind of coil & how can I get one & how was it affixed to your wood bait? Thanks-The Muskyman
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