A-Mac

Make sure you store your DN appropriately. If you are dipping lures, then don't let the excess fall back in. I always put my DN in salsa jars and keep them turned upside down until I'm ready to use them... as well as use a dry gas blanket. Good Luck!

I got a sample of their cast resin to try. Since (from what I recall) you only have to add mekp to it too. Not sure how it will work with filler, but that's why I got a sample.

http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/comprehensive-price-page.htm I use x-tend-it (toward the bottom of the page). I think it works the same as bloxygen (which I also have) but there is way more content in it.

Are there issues associated with the clear cast resins?

I think devcon would probably do the best job at giving you a smooth surface to paint, but it is heavier. Multiple coats of devcon can impact action (for better or worse). Everyone has a method they prefer, so there is not a correct answer.

Unless you have propionate solution, I would do as Mark stated.

They sell lights (which aren't cheap either), but cure times for sunlight exposure seem comparable to solarez... so I'm hopeful. It didn't mention any special lighting applications either, which sounds more appealing. Nevertheless, solarez is pretty kick-ass. I especially like it for filling in ballast holes. Worst case scenario, I can clear up my headlights!

I've been digging and digging and digging to try to find alternative uc cures. I found this one most recently: http://www.epoxies.com/products/uv-curable-illumabond/ This has a list of several clears. I e-mailed them about a preferred product for non-yellowing and water resistant. However, you need a high-intensity uv light to make these cure... which are very very expensive. They said a black light or nail light bulb is not intense enough to fully cure (they recommend an 1100 watt light). I then checked out cureuv.com This site had guitar finishes that looked great. However, the company said that this isn't intended for outdoor use or being submersed in water. They recommended a separate product: http://www.cureuv.com/lensbright-uv-headlight-restoration-foam-cleaner-19oz.html However, this is an aerosol. I dug deeper and found this: http://www.cureuv.com/lensbright-uv-headlight-restoration-coating-8oz.html Cureuv said that this provides a hard, clear, non-yellowing, gloss finish. He said that they have a client that uses this on surfboars... imagine that! Anyway, I ordered some (more costly than solarez) to try it out. I found other automotive uv cures, but they were also aerosols... at 40 bucks a pop.

Thanks for the input. The lures feel and look dry before painting. I use the dishwasher method every time too. The oil sweat thing is recent, as I have not had this problem before (I've been using their resins for a few years now since the price was nice). When painting, everything goes on well until I heat set. Even just exposure in sunlight caused oil boils to occur under the paint. I'm thinking of mounting some wheels onto this lab oven, and just move it outside when I heat a batch. This is still assuming that the heat method will work. If not, then I need new resin.

I contacted aeromarine products http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/casting-resin.htm with questions about the casting resin I've been using. So here is the Q & A from the phone call. Q) My resin lures are sweating, is my resin contaminated? A) NO, with the increasing warming trend across the nation in the spring, our resins have a tendency to sweat out oils. Q) This sweating makes it impossible to paint and clear coat a lure, is there anything I can do to alleviate the problem? A) YES, if you have an oven (they suggested one that you don't use for food) bake the resin at 150F for 4 hours. This should help with the oil sweat. Q) I've heard that heating isocyanate urethane results in chronic toxicity. Is this true? A) YES. However, after curing a low heat of 150F is ok. As a precaution, It is suggested to not do this in your house. If you are doing this your garage have adequate ventilation (open garage door). It is suggested to wear a mask. Q) Are the gasses released from heating flammable? Is there a risk of combustion? A) No (I'm personally going to use a tray to capture oils sweating out). Just figured I would report what I was told.

Cool! I just got a student version of inventor the other day. I'm sure it will take a lot of work to get comfortable with the program, but I'm liking it so far.

Yeah, I figured that would be the case. I have some pearl powder pigments. I might try mixing some reducer with those and airbrush. Maybe once the reducer evaporates, I can heat it with a heat gun. Maybe get a little cleaner finish than brushing. Eh, when I get to try it, I'll let everyone know the results.

I'm working on a hybrid hard/soft swimbait. The short portion of the tail is soft plastic. I looked on the soft plastic board a little and it seems you need special paint for the soft plastic. Has anyone tried createx? I saw the video clip of Larry Dahlberg using pearl dust and "heat setting" I was wondering if a similar process would allow the soft plastic to stick to the paint a little better. Before I can do this, I have to get the dang thing to swim first! Ahh swimbaits, why is making 10 prototypes so addicting? Thanks!

Very good to know. Thanks. How long after the curing process could low heat be applied?

BLISTER PACKAGING!!! It's the same stuff! Just hop down to harbor frieght with some coupons, get yourself free set of screwdrivers and use that packaging! With enough heat, the plastic will smooth out (if it's not a flat piece). Much cheaper, considering you would be throwing away the packaging anyway. RECYCLE!

it's free And I can pop a cheap pizza in too I just have to write out some Celsius to Fahrenheit conversions, and maybe find out what it was used for. Thing looks old enough to be Marie Curie's easy bake oven!

the was supposed to be a b )

LOTS of fish use UV for mate selection. This is very common in birds too. For instance several species of apparantly all black birds will have multiple hues that become apparent in the uv spectrum. 2 things to think about though with UV. If a fish is advertising two things come to mind. a) It's trying to attract a mate it's a warning to predators (may signify it is toxic) The fish trying to attract a mate is taking a risk in advertising. To my knowledge, UV is NOT used by prey to say EAT ME I'm TASTY! So you could attract a strike just as easily as you could deter one. Hard to pick the right colors since we cannot see the entire spectrum.

nedyarb that is an awesome looking bait! very nice work!

... as for hardness. Eye screws are more than suitable for bass lures. I put a little super glue on the threads. On the lures that are "duds" I try to salvage hardware. About half the time, the lure breaks in half before the screw comes out (and thats using about a 1" twisted wire screw). If you are making big lure, put the longest screw you can in it. Pouring a through-wire lure is a PITA and tends to reduce mold life from the extra crevices to hold the hardware.

I'm hoping to get a lab dryer/oven soon. I'm not sure if it would help with hardness, but I'm sure some low heat (like you said, 150-175F) may help de-gas the lures much faster. I had featherlite when I first started to do the resin thing. It was okay, but I always made a huge mess mixing the stuff. I found that I like adding filler separately, but I still make a mess! I'm still searching for the perfect resin. Very finicky products. I have an unintentional habit of moving across the country every couple years. One thing is certain, different climates make resins do very different things. Humidity is disasterous! When I lived in Oregon, I couldn't get a consistent pour for the life of me in the winter months.

I prefer #2 owners. For a 2.5 lure, I like #3. On the line ties for both, I prefer a #2 though. I've had bad luck with ovals bending, not from fish but from just putting them on.

It's unreal what I've learned from this site. I've learned more about chemistry and physics than I ever did in school! Thank you all!

I wonder if you can remove or spill off the top layer of solarez to reduce the amount of wax on the whole.

I think I asked a similar question two years ago, and got the same reply from BobP... and he is right! Bandsaw blade wear down FAST when cutting G10. I've had several blades break after extended use. The snips have been flawless for 2 years. They cut it like scissors do paper, perfect. Also, you don't have near as much of the fiberglass dust floating around like you would using a bandsaw.