A-Mac

I would not heat the lures. This is a little different order of operations, but I've had some where I dipped right after heat setting the paint (thinking a hot lure may help), the lure bubbled up from under the clear.

Wood Putty, Solarez, or epoxy all work well.

I agree entirely with rounding the corners. I think the width of this set up will be just as important too. Since water is "sticky", it will be attracted to all surfaces, including the sides. I think having some width to this system will help to reduce impact on the area the lure is to be tested. Can we make this any more complicated???!!! Hell, I can barely get a crankbait lip straight, let alone predict invisible vortices. ...bar5150, your wife is going to wonder why you just didn't buy a pool... but on the plus side, you may be able to rear trout in this thing! Good luck! OOooooo, once it is built it would be neat to see a dye test too!

This one might work better.

I tend to agree with Vodkaman. I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, but I've seen several of these tanks at icast and other shows. I haven't seen a single concept that I thought made the lure run correctly. I would think the pump will throw out some inconsistent turbulence into the water. So consider this my ecological approach! In a stream, you will have riffles, pools, and runs. Riffles are shallow with boulders that cause disturbance and create inconsistent flow and turbulence throughout. Pools are much larger and deeper with slower more homogeneous flow. Runs are shallow, but the flow is consistent throughout with minimal turbulence. The substrate in a run is homogeneous and doesn't cause erratic turbulence. So what we need is to re-create a "run"! In my drawing, flow comes in at a reverse triangle set-up (like what I think Dave is suggesting). This area is open and allows the turbulence coming from the pipe to commingle and (hopefully) reduce. Then water is forced into a constricting point that isn't directly influenced by the turbulence from the pipe. This constriction gradually opens and further reduces the enthalpy of the flow. Then another constriction and the flow comes up into and open area again. Only this time gravity helps to restrict the flow and the flow will "hug" the gradual slope coming up. The red star is where the lure should be tested. To prevent eddying at the tail race, this slope should be gradual too allowing flow to continue to hug this surface to the pipe. It may be more beneficial to have a reducer going from the tank to the pipe on both ends too. Anyway, this idea will more than likely fail... but it's the approach I would take. I think the larger the set-up the better the results.

Is there a brand that you guys prefer? Perhaps one that is extra thin?

I've done some gobe patterns before, I used a toothpick and a toothbrush to do most of the painting (after I got the primary colors laid out).

#2 south bend rings are incredibly strong. They put my owner hyper wires to shame and are CHEAP. They are so tuff, you may regret getting them if you are putting a lot on. Safety goggles are a must too!

I love the short shank hooks. This does allow for upgrade in size, but you have to be careful with that. Even on the KVD squarebills, upgrading just 1 hook size changes the action. Also, if you feel the need to upgrade without loosing action, the belly hook seems to be the one to change. The larger hook on the rear can create too much drag; therefore reducing the action. FYI Bassstriker, check out SouthBends split rings. The #2 and #3 rings blow the hyperwires (and everything else I've used) out of the water. They don't really advertise the strength on them, but you can easily tell how much stronger they are just when putting them on. They are much much cheaper too. I'm not sure what SB does to them, but they are tough!

I just ordered some samples of the azek from the site. Thanks for posting rayburnguy.

Doesn't sound good. I've never had luck with re-coating either. Perhaps put them in a warm area and see if that helps. ... this was one reason why I got away from epoxy too.

What about 3M spray adhesive?

There is another recent post further down on the list (mirror chrome paint). Several suggestions there.

Tell me more about this deep spoon jigging for winter bass! Are you using a flutter spoon? I'm curious, so any info would be cool. Thanks!

Alright, I bit the bullet. She loves it, and wants me to keep it as a cutting board... but put plastic on the back. I'll etex the whole shebang to seal, and then slap some plastic cutting boards on the back... easier said then done. Thanks for the input guys!

Those look great! I bet they get slammed!

I haven't heard of people applying heat to GST yet. From my experience, it takes a couple weeks to fully cure (a day or so to be fishable though). I think most clear coats are going to give you issues if you heat set anything after 1 day. I would paint everything in one setting and leave the GST for the final process.

Cool!

Hmm, I might just have to bite the bullet and ask her what she wants me to turn it into. I have a similar item made up for her for Christmas, and it's being turned into a clock.

Thanks for the info. I should have checked on here sooner. However, wood selection is limited in the big box stores too. Bad news from my side, I've already made it. So if this can't be used as a cutting board, what should I tell her it is? http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20131208_185156_zpsc37dd0fa.jpg

I've found that the board should be treated with mineral oil. Do you think that e-tex on the paint side (not to be used for cutting) and mineral oil on the other side (after the etex has cured) could work? Or do you think the oils would seap through and ruin the e-tex side?

Hey all, This isn't crankbait related, but I figure this is still the best place to ask. I'm making a cutting board for my girlfriend for her birthday. I got a 17" diameter 1" pine board circle from Home Depot and wood burnt/ painted a butterfly on one side. I figure the opposite side could be used for the cutting part, but leave it flipped over for decor. I was hoping to use evirotech to cover the picture, but what should I use for the cutting side? I figure it should still be sealed right? Any suggestions? Or should I coat both sides with e-tex? Thanks!