A-Mac

So about 6 months back I made the mistake of pouring resin lures in the house. Well, fate happened and I spilled some on the carpet when mixing. Do you guys have any ideas to try and remove this stuff? Perhaps something that would soften it up enough to allow me to scrub at it. I wouldn't fret much, but I am renting the joint and the lease is up soon. Any suggestions are appreciated! I'm just trying to avoid dumping acetone on it first. Thanks.

+1 on great looking lure. From my experience with casting densities, I try to acquire the lightest lure possible and then add weight. Higher lure density resists a lures movement in water. However, you can always increase ballast ( to a point). I normally only reduce density in swimbaits until I can use enough weight to make it sink. Sorry to say, this normally is dependent on the lure design. The lure rolling on its side may be a result of the mouth of the lure being open. Get some modeling clay and fill in the mouth, then see if the lure behaves differently. This is an easy and fast way to test the hydrodynamics of individual parts of the lure to hunt down the problem. The large mouth area may be generating lift in some way at low speeds, but forms a pocket at high speeds which would allow the lure to straighten out. Also, I agree with Nathan, put some larger hooks on it (try this first) because this will certainly help to keep the lure from rolling.

I tried to mimic one (based on a lure my buddy bought). I spent a lot of time taking measurements and made one out of pvc. Mine even sat in the water the same. However, mine didn't work worth a dang. I tried making a portion of the tail section from melted plastics. I'm still messing with it, but maybe I'm not hitting the resin densities right. Anyway, I did do a little touch up paint on his lure too. I just shot createx and heat set it good. From what I hear its still holding up. I was also afraid to try any drastic clear coatings since it wasn't my lure.

Yup. I've had no issues. Just make sure the paint has thouroughly dried.

I'm starting to think you got a different mix in your batch...for the better though. I get considerable haze in mine if I expose too much light. Even if I do everything perfect, it still doesn't come close to epoxy (or the concrete sealer stuff). I was trying mine in Texas, so low humidity and high heat. Nevertheless, you seem to talk a different story with your solarez trials than the rest of us. All I can think of is you have a different mix with less wax.

Hobby Lobby

I print a bunch of small signatures on label paper. I spray createx clear over them afterward. So far, I haven't had any issues with eagle supreme running or wrinkling anything.

http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/silicone-mold-making.htm I've used the purple and the "translucent" with good results. I prefer the purple more actually. You will get bubbles when mixing, but these seem to be minimal with the purple. Something that I recommend is brushing on the silicon directly onto the lure before submerging into the the rest of the batch. This will help with bubbles too.

The lure looks excellent. Is this the eagle supreme? I've still had good luck with mine. The only issue I've had, of course, is a lure I rushed (and didn't let the paint thoroughly dry). That one is still tacky to the touch.

I make a 1 side split mold to help alleviate seem problems. The two methods I like best include a solo cup mold and a pvc pipe mold. The solo cup mold works great because the conical shape holds the mold tight without any clamps. The only downfall is the longer the lure, the more silcon that is wasted. On my small cranks, the solo cup is the way to go. Also, having only one split down the side makes for only 1 seam. In addition, the mold keeps itself in line (along with the cup contours) since it is still only a 50% split. My suggestion on making the split is to only cut as little as necessary to remove the lure, your mold will last longer and you will have a minimal seem line. The pvc pipe method is great for long lures in order to avoid using so much silicon. I'm using 1.5" pipe that is cut on opposite sides. I leave enough pvc in place to keep the circular structure, but trim enough to flex it when I need to slip the mold in or out. I still use the 1 side split mold technique and have had good results. I'll never go back to a 2 part mold.

Just an fyi, make sure your paint has dried thoroughly with eagle supreme. On a couple lures I painted up over about a week and a half ago, the clear has become sticky... to the point that I don't think the lures will ever cure. On the lures that were sufficiently dried (I let dry for at least 24hrs after heat setting) the coating is fine.

Did you wait at least 24hrs between the two coats? Is this a new can, as in have you had any successful batches from the same can on DN yet?

Our top 6 team took 3rd (out of 27), so we pocketed some cash. I had 2nd big bass @ 5.8lbs. I threw my mad walker topwater and my wakebait lures during practice in the morning. No hits on either, but the clear coats still are flawless with no hook rash. I didn't throw any cranks, the fish were very sluggish with the 90F water temperature so I stuck with finesse plastics tourney day. I can't wait for the autumn bite!

I wouldn't kill yourselves trying to get the supreme just yet. I've only conducted 1 test! I did run into issues on one crankbait the other day when trying to rush from painting to clearing, but isn't this always the case? Nevertheless, on the lures that came out fine (which I allowed a solid 24 hours of paint drying) the finish looks incredible. I hope to throw a few this weekend in my top 6 tourney.

This is kind of contradicting to the product overview "Non-yellowing UV resistant" "UV stable" However, the one I picked up the other day from the store was the eagle supreme gloss coat. The one above is just for the gloss coat. Under the specifications, the eagle supreme is labeled as uv resistant. I paid around $21 for it, and it looks great... so far. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eagle-1-Gal-Supreme-Seal-Clear-High-Gloss-Solvent-Based-Acrylic-Concrete-Sealer-EU1/202374891#specifications

The eagle supreme says that it is non-yellowing... so I presumed this to mean the same. I don't think it would do much good as a concrete coating if it couldn't take the sun. I figure fishing lures are never going to see a comparable amount of exposure either... unless it's hung in a tree. Of course, time will tell.

I haven't. My past experiences with trying to accelerate cure times has always ended up with failure. I have been turning on a box fan (low setting) on the lures an hour after dip. I figure just a little moving air will help to evaporate the solvent. I've had other coats bubble up before, from the air underneath inside the lure expanding out. From the looks of things, I consider the cure time similar to DN. Sure you can fish them a couple days after dipping but a full cure isn't achieved until at least a week later. For personal use, I wouldn't hesitate to use a lure that has had a dip or two the next day. 4 dips though, it's still pretty soft the next day.

I haven't fished the crankbaits that recieved 4 coats yet. However, they are considerably harder after about 5 days so far. My wakebait that I dipped 1 coat was hard by the next day. I haven't had any adverse reactions using createx, but I did heat set my lures with a hair dryer very thouroughly before dipping. So far I would say the thickness of the coatings are about equivalent to DN. I think the Eagle is a little more glossy in comparison (more even and smooth gloss) to DN. I haven't tried to attack any of the lures to test overall durability yet. I normally reserve such punishments for the lures that fail to work.

It's very similar to e-tex. I've used it to clear coat a guitar I painted before. http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/270387_10100664436570718_13713245_61085162_3838959_n.jpg http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/268375_10100664436236388_13713245_61085153_2207566_a.jpg You have to have a way to turn the lures for several hours too. In this case, I made a giant turner http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/262201_10100664435527808_13713245_61085131_1890148_n.jpg

And unlike most other coats, this one has an alternative use! I have a couple cranks that are curing now to see how the sealer adheres to the edges. But by the looks of things so far, I think it should hold up.

So I rushed a jointed wakebait, gave it 1 dip coat of eagle supreme, and fished it 10 hrs later for about an hour. It looks perfect still. There is no hook rash apparent and no paint loss in the hinges. Oh, and it was exposed to the sun with max temp of 106F all day. I have a couple other lures that I did 4 dips (2hrs between each coat) and they are still a little soft. I think next time I do multiple dips (because it is incredibly shiny with 4 coats). I plan to limit it to 2 coats per day next time with 2-4hrs between coats. I think this will allow for the coating to harden much faster.

I have a couple lures hanging with the eagle brand now. So far, so good. It has a close consistency to dick nites. It does have an odor to it, but I think Solarez and DN is worse. Nevertheless, garage door is open, just because some of the deadliest contaminants you can't sense. If this stuff ends up being worthy, I'll probably get a few tin paint cans from Ace and divi it out. I bet the shelf life hit's it before I can use a gallon.

I think most companies just avoid using the terminology "waterproof." It's a pretty stout claim to back on a product. I'd be surprised if auto clears even claim they are waterproof. Also, if average joe decides he doesn't want to use if for concrete (and slaps it on a crankbait!), or applies it incorrectly to a surface, then they are free of liability.

Yeah, I was hoping you already cracked the can! The instruction also said to stir well too, so maybe all the "solids" have just precipitated out. www.eaglesealer.com/images/uploads/product-misc/doc-application-guide.pdf

I picked up some of the eagle brand high gloss for about $21. I plan to try it this weekend. From the instructions, it recommends to not recoat for at least 2 hours.