bryanmc
-
Posts
649 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
22
Recent Profile Visitors
2,908 profile views
bryanmc's Achievements
-
It sounds crazy but a little MF maroon will do what you want.
-
I have Del's 6" cut tail hand pour mold but I won't part with it.
-
I can think of three in the Redding area... Mother's Finest (Arnold Fancelli), Rainbow Worms (Barry Ng), and MGM (John Coyle).
-
Just checked, this link works for me... https://ultramolds.com/
-
Pretty sure I remember California worms being in Red Bluff, south of Redding.
-
Recommendations for someone to paint Predator Wiggle Warts...
bryanmc replied to Puma's topic in Hard Baits
https://www.greencountrybaits.com/ -
I use loctite brush on super glue. I feel like it penetrates the thread wraps better and dries faster. I used nail polish a long tome ago but was never satisfies with the results.
-
Interesting video. I don't think they need to be that long though. If you notice, the BT extender has a much smaller hole than 1/2" copper tubing. Mine are one coupler with just enough tubing sticking out to fit all the way into the injection port.
-
You can also make your own with a piece of copper tubing and a copper union. Can't remember what size off the top of my head though.
-
I had originally thought about doing it that way, but it would have required me to build (not my strong suit) or find a top plate and stirrer paddle that would stir without contacting the t-couple. I still think about doing it now and then so I wouldn't have to stop the motor to load an injector.
-
My thinking was if you read off the hottest spot, the rest of the base might never get to temp or might take a long time. In the center of the pot you read more the plastic temp than element heat.
-
Here's the original thread...
-
I remember that post. For some reason I was thinking he mixed the sand with elmers glue, but I can't swear to it.
-
That's what I do. You can get any weight (within reason) on any hook.
-
The thermocouple I used looks like this picture. Imagine running a thin metal bar from corner to corner on the picture you supplied. You drill a hole in the center of the bar and the t-couple goes through the bar and the nose contacts the bottom of the pot in the location of the divot mentioned earlier. You can thread a nut on the thermocouple to adjust the depth and / or hold it in place as necessary.
