bryanmc
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Everything posted by bryanmc
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It sounds crazy but a little MF maroon will do what you want.
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I have Del's 6" cut tail hand pour mold but I won't part with it.
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I can think of three in the Redding area... Mother's Finest (Arnold Fancelli), Rainbow Worms (Barry Ng), and MGM (John Coyle).
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Just checked, this link works for me... https://ultramolds.com/
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Pretty sure I remember California worms being in Red Bluff, south of Redding.
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Recommendations for someone to paint Predator Wiggle Warts...
bryanmc replied to Puma's topic in Hard Baits
https://www.greencountrybaits.com/ -
I use loctite brush on super glue. I feel like it penetrates the thread wraps better and dries faster. I used nail polish a long tome ago but was never satisfies with the results.
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Interesting video. I don't think they need to be that long though. If you notice, the BT extender has a much smaller hole than 1/2" copper tubing. Mine are one coupler with just enough tubing sticking out to fit all the way into the injection port.
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You can also make your own with a piece of copper tubing and a copper union. Can't remember what size off the top of my head though.
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I had originally thought about doing it that way, but it would have required me to build (not my strong suit) or find a top plate and stirrer paddle that would stir without contacting the t-couple. I still think about doing it now and then so I wouldn't have to stop the motor to load an injector.
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My thinking was if you read off the hottest spot, the rest of the base might never get to temp or might take a long time. In the center of the pot you read more the plastic temp than element heat.
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Here's the original thread...
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I remember that post. For some reason I was thinking he mixed the sand with elmers glue, but I can't swear to it.
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That's what I do. You can get any weight (within reason) on any hook.
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The thermocouple I used looks like this picture. Imagine running a thin metal bar from corner to corner on the picture you supplied. You drill a hole in the center of the bar and the t-couple goes through the bar and the nose contacts the bottom of the pot in the location of the divot mentioned earlier. You can thread a nut on the thermocouple to adjust the depth and / or hold it in place as necessary.
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Should have mentioned that the ends of the bar that hold the t-couple fit in between the legs and the pot on either end.
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Throw the whole plug in power thing away and connect the SSR directly to the pins that come from the element. As far as the thermocouple, I drilled a little divot in the bottom of the pot (not a hole, really just an indent for the nose of the t-couple to sit in). Then I took a piece of metal bar and ran it diagonally across the bottom of the pot. I drilled a hole in it corresponding to the divot in the middle and mounted the t-couple there. You just need to make sure the nose of the t-couple is snug against the bottom of the pot.
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If you put a PID controller on your pot you will never burn your plastic. Th PID controls the temp of the element in the bottom of the pot. The plastic can never get hotter than the element.
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I originally used one of the LED nail lights with varying results. They are generally 395 - 405nm. I switched to one of the fluorescent tube type nail lights that are 365nm and they cure the Chinese resin in about 6 minutes. I also found some Chinese resin on amazon the claimed to be "fast cure" but it actually cured slower than the regular Chinese resin from amazon.
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Nanometers.... It's how the wavelength of the light is measured.
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Depends on the resin and the light. Some resin needs 365nm and some needs 405nm. Sometimes if the thing you're curing gets warm it will feel tacky but will be fine after it cools off.
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Exactly! Hilite into cold plastic, pearl into hot plastic.
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There's a link to a dropbox with them at the top of this page...
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Somebody (who I consider a reliable source) told me once that the guy who owns Zman *is* a patent attorney.
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And you've probably forgotten more than the rest of us will ever know....
