bryanmc

Sounds like the vents might need a little work.

Correct, 70 lbs max for priority flat rate.

I know that one of the complaints about these molds is that they need some sort of release agent. I'm wondering if anyone has tried painting them with engine paint like we do with the essential series molds.

If you don't mind open pour silicone molds, take a look at lurecraft.

Not that I can say for sure. I was just pointing out that it's obviously not the swim ripper. The guys in Ukraine might make one though.

It's not the swim ripper...

Good point Frank!

Probably depends on the mold. That formula in a do-it essential series 5" senko comes out right at 10g for me.

MF saltwater should do what you want...

The RI color is black on one side, indigo with purple flake on the other

If you want durable try the easy stretch...

You should be fine with those numbers. MF is all I use these days.

https://store.do-itmolds.com/Crystal-Clear-Plastisol-Phthalate-Free_p_295.html

If you look at the commercially produced molds of that type, they all shoot from the nose.

How does it hold up to reheats?

Here's how mine is wired. This diagram was for a Lee pot obviously but the wiring is the same. I did put a switch on the hot lead to shutdown all the power to the pot and pid. I use an SSR and don't have any issue with my shop lights flickering (maybe because they're led). Everybody will have a little different way of doing it, mine works for me. I used the pid shown in the diagram. Look it up on ebay, the pid, ssr and thermocouple was 30 something dollars. pid-wiring.pdf

I took the presto thermostat apart and just used the connectors that slip over the prongs on the pot. Just cut them off with some wire connected to them so you can solder them to the power leads.

The hardest part is mounting the thermocouple. On mine, I used a piece of 1/2" wide 1/8" thick metal and secured it diagonally across the bottom of the pot. I ground the ends narrower so they would fit between the feet and the pot. Then I drilled a hole in the mount strap at the middle of the pot and mounted the thermocouple through the hole so it was in contact with the bottom of the pot. I also used a drill to make a little divot in the bottom of the pot where the tip of the thermocouple sits and used a tiny bit of computer heat sink compound (artic silver or similar) on the tip. So far it's worked perfectly.

After you get to 350, drop it down to 310 - 320 before you add your glitter and keep it there while you shoot your baits. You'll find everyone has a little different procedure, but if you keep it up by 350 your flake will bleed and your plastic will yellow a bit.

Like Mark, I've never had MF hard pack. I've never used spike-it or lurecraft, but I've had some hard packing with chemionics and calhoun.

Pouring plastic is not inherently dangerous, it is, however, very unforgiving of stupid mistakes.

https://store.do-itmolds.com/3-Tapered-Trout-Finesse-Worm-10-Cavity_p_251.html

JJ's Magic works well on dark colors and it doesn't seem to bleed like other dyes.

Custombaitmolds.com is in Mississippi, baitmolds.com is in the Ukraine...

You could try asking here... http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/contact-us/