bryanmc

Just to be clear, only looking for the paddle and coupler, not the motor, mounting plate etc... thanks

According to Webster viscosity is the property of resistance to flow in any material with fluid properties, so too much viscosity and you can't fill small appendages and too little and everything settles out.

So, the viscosity of Polysol is lower at 275 than Calhoun at 320? At some point on its way to becoming a solid doesn't it have to cross through the same viscosity as Calhoun at 320? Just trying to understand what your saying. (It's also possible I don't understand viscosity LOL).

My experience is that it clumps if you add it to heated plastic and becomes a real pain to get mixed properly. I always add salt and / or gbm to raw plastic before heating.

That That That That That That That That That That What do I win?

Did you read the front page on their website?

Also keep in mind that "personal use" doesn't get you around patent infringement.

I used to buy some plastic on ebay that came in 2 gallon buckets. I'd just use a cup to dip it out as needed until it got low enough to easily pour from the bucket.

It did for me.

There's no reason you can't sell these. The name "senko" is protected, the bait itself is not .

I've done the cut and scrape routine before. The only thing you can add is elbow grease LOL.

Check out MF saltwater formula. http://www.pouryourownworms.com/

Here's what I did and discovered today. I turned off I and D with P set to 2.25 (that's where it was from the last auto tune I assume). The temp fluctuation with a 330 set point was 330.7 - 319.7 (turning off I and D allowed me to finally reach the set point ). I started lowering P until I ended up at 1.60 with a swing of 333.8 - 324. I tried adding I but even the smallest amount (.25) sent the upper temp into the 340s. I never turned D back on. I just need to figure out how to have the controller turn the ssr full on sooner so it doesn't drop as far. I'm not sure if there's a way to do that but hopefully someone knows how.

Hi Leonard... I was hoping you'd chime in. Yes, I let it run the full auto tune (at least the light went off) it took around five minutes or so. Yes, I'm using an SSR. The sensor is in the middle of the pot, so it's as far from the heating element as possible with my stirrer configuration. I thought the heatsink compound (just a thin coat on the tip) would fill in the irregularities and give better contact and more accurate readings. If that's not the case I can clean it off in a minute or two. I'll continue with plastisol as you suggest. The temp indication seemed close to correct but I didn't check it against my digital instant read thermometer. What exactly is the puf value? Any ideas why I'm not getting to the set temp? It went past it a couple times during the auto tune as expected) so I'm at a loss for why it isn't getting to it during normal operation

Maybe black with some red hi-lite?

I mounted the k sensor (thermocouple) so the tip sits in a divot about 1/3 way through the bottom in the middle of the pot and in contact with the bottom. I used computer heatsink compound on the tip so I get a good thermal contact. My theory is the plastic can't get much hotter than the bottom of the pot (heat source) nor cooler than it. I tried to figure out a way to actually get it into the plastisol from the top but my stirrer is the full width of the bottom and going all the way through the pot would leave me trying to seal the space between the sensor tip and the threaded coupling. Does yours come all the way up to the set point?

I wondered about that too Mark. My guess is that all liquids have different properties as far as heat cool time but maybe someone who knows will clear that up.

That makes sense, but I think it needs to be done to out1/al1. It says out2/al2 is for cooling and isn't connected to anything in my application. Do you think that could in some way affect it never reaching the set point? From what I've read, it should vary ~2 degrees either side of the set point when cycling.

I installed a PID controller on my presto pot yesterday and have a couple questions for folks that know about them. I ran it through the auto tune procedure (twice) and have the following glitches. On heating it will only get within 3 or 4 degrees of the set point before the temp starts to fall. Once the temp start falling, it may drop 20 degrees or so before it starts to climb again. For example, with a 335 degree set point, the temp will swing between 332 and 318 for the entire run. I know the unit is capable of higher temps since I can set it to 356 and it will take the plastic up to to 350. Any ideas what settings I need to look at and what type adjustments to make? So far I'm pleased since I don't have to constantly mess with the thermostat (it has been removed) to keep the temp usable during an entire run, but it would be nice if this thing would keep the temp within a degree or two of the set point like it's capable of. Here's a link to the manual. They may as well have written it in Chinese... My unit is the TA8, but it's the same manual. http://blog.uvm.edu/cwcallah/files/2016/04/Mypin-TA4-manual1.pdf Thanks

I actually did contact customer support and got quite a lesson in the different types of rtv (very much like your first post thanks). I didn't realize that 1:1 rtv is generally platinum cure and 10:1 rtv is generally tin cure. Platinum cure is much more finicky as far as what it will work with. The master was clean before I started (always make sure to wipe them down with alcohol). They didn't seem surprised that the mold star wouldn't cure against plastisol although I could swear there are some who say they use it that way. All in all it was a $35 learning experience. I tried some tin cure 30 from Specialty Resin and Chemical, and although it works well, I think it really needs to be used in a vacuum chamber for best results. I've had a couple molds come out bad because a bubble got caught in just the wrong place. Seems I have the best luck with good old alumilite quick set... no air bubbles, good durability and results. The price is the only draw back (except with a Hobby Lobby coupon).

Has anyone had any issues with moldstar 30 not curing when poured over a plastisol master? I was trying to create a mold from a swimbait I had and after hearing so much good about moldstar 30 I thought I'd give it a try. The master was secured to a metal sheet with double sided tape and surrounded with a wooden mold box. I mixed it according to directions and poured it the same way I've poured many other brands (Alumilite quickset and high strength, SRC cast-a-mold 30 and others). After 16 hours I went to demold the master. Everywhere the moldstar 30 touched the master was totally uncured as if it had just been freshly mixed while everywhere else was completely cured. I've never had any other RTV not cure against plastisol. Has anyelse had a similar experience? I'm wondering if I got a bad batch or this is just something you can't do with moldstar 30. This is an image of the inside of the mold. I had it turned upside down after I took it out of the mold box and supported at the ends. The master just slid out after 5 minutes or so and this is the result.

The liquid.

MF silver smoke pearl might be what you're after....

I actually counted how many drops went into each of the spoons in the small measuring spoon set (pinch, tad, etc) and wrote it down for doing bigger batches. Of course I can't find it now... LOL