bryanmc

LOL... I emailed Do-it and they said it wouldn't work. Of course, they're in the business of selling molds. Now I just need to find the mold at a reasonable price.

I meant to say do-it. Thanks... That was what I was hoping to hear! Did you have to do any modification or is it fine right out of the box?

Has anyone ever tried using the #7 line clip swivel in Hilt's bass casting sinker mold. The casting sinker takes a #7 barrel swivel according to Hilt's website. It would be nice to be able to pour teardrop shaped ds weights instead of round or finesse.

Does anybody know what hook they use, or know of one like it?

It should work... these do http://img.tacklewarehouse.com/ProductImages/BASSEVT-AYU.JPG

I have no intention of doing that. I only make baits for myself and don't even have names for them. I'm just here for the discussion. I agree that calling a bait a sweet beaver would violate the trademark / patent. The question is, does owning the patent on 2 words used together negate everyone else from using either of the words separately? Again, I use toad and frog as the example, they're used by many many manufacturers to describe a certain type of bait. How about craw? Who should own that word?

I agree to a point, but following your above logic, use of the words cola, pepper and bass in any way shape or form by anyone other than the above mentioned companies would be forbidden. It would also mean that baits like horny toad, sizmic toad, hyper toad etc would all need to be renamed. The word beaver is not exclusive to ri baits. How about all the different "frog" baits? Same story.

That was Tim Horton, the problem was a Canadian donut shop chain named Tim Horton's

It is amazing that someone can prohibit the use of a word that is not exclusive to their product. Are fly tiers now prohibited from saying they use beever fur on their flies? Thankfully nobody got a copyright on the word "worm" or we'd all be screwed LOL

It basically is. They sell it as silica sand. Only problem with using it is it settles really fast in the plastic. That's why yamamoto uses water cooled injection molds. They cool the plastic before the sand can settle.

I think what he meant was that while there may be a strength difference, there isn't really much "color" difference in the different blacks. With other "blended" colors like watermelon, green pumpkin, amber etc, there are actual color differences as you pointed out.

I really like Del's light watermelon. I find it much easier to darken a light color to the shade I want than to lighten a darker one.

I caught almost all my fish on a watermelon red flake stick that I make.

I've only done it on 6" sticks and did one side, slapped it together and poured the other color. Maybe the sticks were thick enough that they didn't cool off as quickly and the second color being full temp got a good bond. Dave, are you saying you pour both sides with the mold apart then clamp it together and heat it? Bryan

I'm not Del but here's what I've found if you put salt in your baits when you pour them. I add scent when I bag them and the salt in the bait causes the scent to be drawn into the plastic. I can open a bag that I bagged 3 months before and the baits are ripe with the scent. I mostly use LC scents and can't speak to the others. I would have to think that heating scented oil to 350 degrees would tend to evaporate some of it off.

I have the mixer running all the time. How much stabilizer do you add for how much plastic?

I have the mixer running all the time. How much stabilizer do you add for how much plastic?

I have an ir thermometer. I'm running calhoun plastic right about 320 or so. I'm not sure where the presto senses it's temp from but shouldn't the thermostat keep it pretty close to what it's set at regardless of how much plastic is in the pot?

Just started using a presto pot for pouring. One thing I noticed is my color changing (getting darker) as I pour through a batch. I'm only doing 2 cups at a time right now but the change is enough to notice. Are you guys using heat stabilizer to keep your colors consistent throughout the batch, and if so, how much and how often?

There isn't any hardener in the colorant, that's pigment that has settled. Like zbass said, put a 1/4" nut or 2 in the colorant bottle to help agitate it. I also warm my colorant in the microwave a little to help soften the stuff on the bottom if the bottle has been sitting for a while. 10 - 15 seconds is usually enough for a 2oz bottle and be sure to loosen the cap before you heat it. As far as your plastic being like jello, how soon aftr you pour are you checking it? It takes a minute or so out of the mold to really set well.

Does anyone have a recipe for yum's mardi-gras? I can't seem to get the plastic color right. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Try Del at www.delmart.com

I'm trying to recreate a color made by a local pourer. The color is pretty much straight out of the bottle MF watermelon brown. The problem I'm having is that the original is more opaque (cloudy - hope I'm using the right term in the right place) and dull looking and mine is translucent and shiny. I know I can cloud it with a little white or some salt but then won't I have to adjust the color back darker somehow. If I use white would just adding more of the wm brown bring the color back? Is there another trick to make it opaque without adding white or salt like maybe just adding a bunch more wm brown? I know I could probably experiment long enough and figure it out, but I need this one in a hurry. Thanks TU Bryan

Anybody???

Anybody have one? It's driving me nuts. TIA Bryan