Tomato/potato.... It's actually called a blending block. Its primary purpose is for shooting laminates but you can also get it to do other things as Frank has explained.
I do it a little different. I make the form and pour 1/4 inch of remelted left over plastic in it and let it set up. Once it's cooled I brush my masters with mend-it and secure them to the plastic. I've never had very good luck with tape as som part of the master always seems to come loose when pouring the rtv.
Wiring a PID into your presto pot eliminates a lot of the heating issues. I put raw plastic in the pot, turn on the stirrer, and set the PID to 350 and let it run. Once it hits 350 I turn the PID down to 300 - 310 and when it gets there I add my colorant and flake and shoot.
We've told you what is known to work. Anything else is a gamble on your part. You may save a couple bucks or you may waste the purchase price trying to save a couple bucks.
Looking at the picture, the output shaft is on the wrong side of the gearbox. Aside from that, without knowing the specs, or if you could switch the output it's really a crapshoot.
Lureworks sells by the gallon.
https://www.ispikeit.com/category/70/scents
MF sells by the gallon or 5 gallons.
https://www.pouryourownworms.com/Scented-Worm-Oil-Bait-Marinades_c17.htm
I would but he really doesn't have anything I want. His super high speed offset presto pot stirrer looked interesting but it's not even shown on the site now.
I won't ship less than 100 baits... Just not worth it. Charge a fair price for the baits and have the buyer pay the $7.00 or so shipping... It's well worth their while to buy 300 or so at a time.
I usually use the padded flat rate envelopes. You can fit more in them that the regular flat rate envelopes or the small flat rate boxes for the same cost.
If I remember correctly, Bait Plastics is the manufacturer of polysol. Dead On used sell polysol under their label, but now use a different supplier. I currently use Bait Plastics and haven't had any issues with it.
You need to heat the plastic to 350 for it to fully convert. When I cook plastic, I take it to 350 and add my colorant. Then I let it cool to 320 - 330 before I add glitter and pour. Subsequent reheats don't need to go over 320 or whenever the plastic just gets pourable again.
I disassemble the glue gun and thread the end where the stick goes in to screw onto the valve outlet. When I'm using the pot I have the glue gun tip plugged in and never have any issues with the plastic flowing.
I drill the hole between the element and the outside edge of the pot. I also take the element out of a hot glue gun and adapt it to the outlet of the spout. It keeps the nozzle clear all the time.