MuskyGary
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Everything posted by MuskyGary
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When I first start my Lee pot I turn the dial all the way up until the lead melts. Then Im told I should turn it down about half-way so I don't have to flux as much. Is this what you guys do? How low on your pot setting do you go? I know all pots are different, but it seem I do a lot of fluxing at high heat.
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Is the Ziplock storage bag worm proof? Trying to find something to store all the plastics Im making that is close to home.
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Very nice movement, looks just like a pike! If you don't catch anything on it you can always fillet it and eat it!
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I see Lurecraft just pulled all of his beaver molds because of patent infringment! Stated he would no longer be able to sell them. Good thing I have a few.
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Yes, That could work. The baits were painted with regular colors (top, side, belly) then the tape was applied and the colors showed through the scale pattern. I am going to try the Barlows product. Thanks, Gary
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Yesterday I went to the Chicago Musky Show. A lot of the new lures are using prismitic tape also saw some using a clear tape (?) with scales outlined on it. Anyone know where these can be bought or who makes them? I checked Whitchcraft tape but they didn't have anything close.
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Hope this hasn't been covered before. I did a search but couldn't find anything. I pour outside in a building that has no heat. Right now I only pour when the temp is above 40. Wonder how cold do you guys pour. The workshop is insulated, but you have to open it up for ventilation.
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Hope a lot of people chime in on this as a lot of us do our painting outside. I keep all my liquids in the house and only take them outside when the temp is averaging over 40 degrees. Under 40 I cut lure bodies out of wood. Pouring lead, painting, is reserved for over 40. Just me.
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I buy all my lead on e-bay. Just search lead ingot. As far as the ultra minnow, I pour mine with soft lead. Haven't had any problems.
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Never thought about sticking a piece of circut board in the mold. That definately would stregthen it!
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So how do you reinforce it? Make it thicker than the orginal or put a couple pieces of wire through it?
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Is it possible to mode the lip into your clay model and thus make your lip out of RTV with the lure body? Will a RTV lip hold up as well as a lexan lip? Or should I make my RTV modes without the lips and cut the body and put in a lexan lip like we do with a wood lure?
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You can always tape the shaft, I know this takes a lot of time.
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You can still heat the plastic in the micro. Pour it in a pan big enough for the tube rod. To keep it warm sit the pan on a hot plate.
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Try www.captainhookswarehouse.com.
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Bears Hand Injectors-- Do They Work On Bob's Molds?
MuskyGary replied to Garneau Baits's topic in Soft Plastics
What about rolling a piece of alunium into a cone or funnel shape? Set the funnel into the mold slot and put the injector into the funnel and shoot? -
It's so easy to miss sales, I usually check TU everyday, love it when anyone lets us know about a special or sale. Thanks again for the headsup ghostbaits.
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Thanks for the info. I would have missed that, now I have a order on the way!
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This is for sale through Cabelas, item: HZ-32-0285. According to the write up and reports by people who bought it. This thing will eleminate all bubbles in the epoxy. Cost 34.99 Just wondering if anyone has used it and if its worth the money.
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When you pour a crankbait in a mold, how do you make the lip? Do you pour it with the same resin as the lure, or do you place a lexan lip in the mold cavity? Never poured a bnait yet, but would like to try it. Im wondering if a resin lip would hold up to fishing? With a lexan lip I could drill a hole through it and put it on the "through wire". It would never come out! I would just have to put a lexan lip on the clay model before I poured the mold. What information can you guys give me?
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You can also see them on www.makelure.com
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WOW!! Those are fantastic! I see what you mean about practic, practic practic!
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Thanks guys for the info. Im going to try the hand pour way. Only make baits for myself so they don't have to be perfect! Gary
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Could someone tell me how they pour core worms? Im talking about the western finesse worms. I can see pouring the base then the core and finishing up with the top, but you would need something very fine to pour that core. Any ideas?