Just looked at them, he has five sizes: 1-1, 1-1.25, 1-1.75, 1-2.25, 1-3.25. This is something new and everybody is always interested in new information. . Wonder how you fill them as pulling the plunger back would fill one side more?
Thanks guys, I'm going to get the conversion kit and see if I like it better. I also have a Badger 360 brush and I see I can also get a .5 needle for it. So I'll probably get both kits and end up leaving one at .35 and the other at.5. I don't do much fine detail work (use stencils instead) so I think the .5 is the way to go. (Also will pick up some 4012 reducer)
I see a conversion kit is available for a .5 needle. The needle I have is a .35. Will the .5 make it easier to spray paint? I have trouble with the .35 clogging up on pearl colors.
I plan on getting the bigger swing jig mold later this summer. I want to try the one ounce sizes on a three way rig (bottom with a craw) and run a husky jerk on top for walleye (Using it in Indiana where two lures on a line is legal) The smaller swim jig mold works great with craws using 3/0 and 4/0 with craws like Biffle does.
What about using the Scotch Super 77 Adhesive for the flashabou? It's a spray on glue, then put the flashabou in place and let dry? I use the spray glue for attaching foam to the bottom of plano boxes for putting my jigs and flies in.
Didn't want to hijack another thread. So, when you mix your reducer and paint do you do it in the airbrush or in a separate cup? If you mix in the airbrush do you add the reducer first or second? If I put paint in the airbrush and try to spray and it doesn't, I have to clean out the whole airbrush and start over. I think I'm better off mixing in a small jar first and pouring into the airbrush, but wanted to see how you guys do it?
I would like to see it in a pint size can, which would put the price down so most of us could afford to try it. If it turns out to be really great, maybe buy the quart size them for my good baits.
Anybody know much about this lure blank company? Where are they from, good products? I see a couple of blanks I'd like to buy, but at 250 pieces I'd hate to find out they don't work.
Enjoyed the tour and your baits look great! I just wish I could make something like that from scratch. Your prices are in line with the quality you put in, maybe I'll be able to buy a couple this summer.
Do-it has a "Lure Body" mold LB-5-A that makes lure bodies for in line spinners, I'll bet that would work. Lots of guys has that mold; probably find someone to make you a bunch.
It centerns on money. As long as you do not sell them for cash, you can make them. So yes you can make anything out there to use or trade or give away!
Word of caution, I dipped a couple of baits all the way up on the diving bills without thinking. When they dried the line tie was locked in the solarez!! LOL No way to free them up, two plugs in the wastebasket!
I am trying some glitter glue on a couple of unpainted jerkbaits right now. I put a bead of glitter glue down the top of the jerkbait and spread it around with a small paintbrush. (tree house glitter glue) The baits took about twelve hours to dry hard. I haven't top coated them yet, but they look good.
What about "dipping temp." I do my lure dipping outside and since I live up in northern Indiana I'm wondering if I should watch the outside temp/ Like no dipping under 50 degrees?
I just ordered a sample also. When you dip your lure;; are you pouring some in a container and throwing away what you don't use or are you dipping directly into the can it comes in?
X3 on powder paint. For my spinnerbaits (because of the wire arms) I heat the head with a heat gun, hold it over a paper plate and use the "tap" method of painting it with a brush.
Thanks for the info. I'll keep working at it. I know a lot of guys will put reducer in createx when they first open the bottle. I always try to shoot it the way it comes and if it's to thick ; it means I have to stop and clean out the airbrush. Tends to aggravate me!!