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MuskyGary

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Everything posted by MuskyGary

  1. MuskyGary
    Most of us use watercolor paints. You have to clear coat them and let it harden before you try to mess up the paint. Paint alone on the body will always smear if you press hard and push on it.
  2. MuskyGary
    Also check out cabelas. Cabelas and Bass Pro have everything you could want.
  3. MuskyGary
    I like hand control models because I've broken to many cabels on foot control. Use to fish a minum of three tournments a month back in the seventies. Breaking a cable can really mess you up. Now I use a hand control one battery motro. Minn Kota and Motor Guide are both good motors. Been looking at the wireless minn kota, and motor guide. Anyone have any experience with these motels?
  4. MuskyGary
    Same here, waiting on a invoice.
  5. MuskyGary
    When you warm your molds up to start; I assume you put your pins in the mold to warm up also?
  6. MuskyGary
    The trouble with a hand pour is the tail is usually thicker and that means less action; also you have to go slow and careful in your pouring. With a injector you just inject and demold and keep moving along, all the baits will be uniform and thin tailed.
  7. MuskyGary
    I use a Q tip. Doesn't always look professional, but Im not selling anything and they do catch fish. Rember to use the retarder 1:1, this paint dries FAST without it!
  8. MuskyGary
    Can you post a picture of them?
  9. MuskyGary
    I have always been told that sharpies will fade. I know some guys that use them on plastic baits--in the boat when they are fishing them. Do you top coat your lures? and if so with what? No problem of fadeing?
  10. MuskyGary
    Question, Do you bake the sculpy mold in the oven before casting it? or do you use the raw clay and just seal it?
  11. MuskyGary
    Frank, Thanks for the info. Did Spikeit say when the suspendsol will hit the market? Or any other items they were going to go public with soon?
  12. MuskyGary
    Because it has to be thin where it enters the water to get deeper depth.
  13. MuskyGary
    I assume after spraying you just hang the lure up? No need for a carosel?
  14. MuskyGary
    Looking at the new baits at the icast show on Tacklewarehouse and seeing that the deep diver lips are thick at the plug end and thin at the outer point. Came up with the idea of glueing two lexan lips together on top of one another (pancake style) letting the lower piece protrude about one half inch to get the thin part. Just a idea wondering if anyone has tried that or if it will work? What type of glue would work best for glueing the two pieces together Superglue? Then after it dries you would have to drill a hole through it for the line tie wire. What do you think?
  15. MuskyGary
    That is what I do, cut the power down and check every thirty seconds, when it starts to get close to pouring temp I go every ten seconds, if bubbles start to form--pour! I use the soft mainly for covering eyes so I dip where there are no bubbles.
  16. MuskyGary
    Caney Creek is puting its new plastic in a bag container just like they do wine. It works great. Wondering if they could do Dick Nite this way? There would be no air exposer except for the amount you pull out of the container. If it would work we could buy in larger amounts as no worry about air contaimation. What do you think? Maybe Dick Nite will see this and respond.
  17. MuskyGary
    What type of clear are you guys using? I take it there must be a one part that air cures?
  18. MuskyGary
    Now if you can find a lexan lip like the one in the lure; you can cast the lure with lip in the mold. When it comes time to make the new lure just put the lexan lip in the mold and pour your lumalite. You can make copies of your existing lip on top of a lexan sheet and cut them out. Sabd them down so they fit the slot in your mold. They have to fit tight so the alumalite does not cover the exposed lip.
  19. MuskyGary
    I didn't want to hijack the other thread, so what weight of wire do you use for bass baits .35 or .41? Also how long of a eye do you use? Longer on a shad bait as compared to a rapala style? Thanks for any info I have always used screw eyes.\, but im going to try this.
  20. MuskyGary
    Great video!! So much easier than words. Thanks Vodkaman.
  21. MuskyGary
    Wondering how hard it is to make molds that you pour lead into. I would like to make a minnowhead and a chubhead mold with the crane sweivel out the bottom; like on a roadrunner. I think I could just use the minnowhead jig and put a small piece of modeling clay in the spot for the crane sweivel. Once poured I could cut a slit in the mold wall for the swevil to fit the end into the head. What do you think? Any suggestions on what mold material is best?
  22. MuskyGary
    The trouble I have with the injectors is that the plastic cools to fast in the injector and I usually can only fill one mold before the tip clogs. If you get the injector hot then you can do two or more. I have several injectors and the one I use the most is basstackle's with a pin on the nozzle.
  23. MuskyGary
    The color that no one has mentioned that catches a ton of fish is.....firetiger!! Firetiger and shad color account for most of the fish caught here in Indiana.
  24. MuskyGary
    Thanks for the info. I copied that off and put it in my workshop.
  25. MuskyGary

    Lip Depth?

    MuskyGary posted a topic in Hard Baits

    When making the cut to put a lexan lip into a wood crankbait, what determines how deep you put the lip in? Is it a guess estimate?
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