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strictly esox

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Everything posted by strictly esox

  1. I ordered mine last night, at that price I payed the extra $6.95 and had it sent priority. Now I'm hoping he has some left in stock. I was having some regret getting an Iwata Revelution(still blows the doors off my syphon feed) instead of an Eclipse, this should fill the gap nicley. At what point do you guys explain to your wife that you just purchased another ab? John
  2. I bought a similar compressor from Harbor freight about 2 years ago and returned it the same day:boo:. It even came with a free double action brush. I'm not saying I know everything because I dont but back then I knew nothing about airbrushes, however I did no that this compressor was not what I needed. It ran almost constantly and couldnt keep consistant psi to my brush. I am currently running a 2hp 5 gallon twin tank from Harbor Freight and it works great, I think it was $79.00 on sale. I have it hooked up to their $26.00 regulator/water trap. I've had this one for about 8 years for running small air tools, I have beat the crap out of it and it's still going. If it dies tomorrow I will repurchase the same model again.This is not an oilless compressor but I was told it shoulnt matter if you run a water/oiltrap. I cant say I have ever had a problem from oil getting onto my paint. The great thing is it's a real compressor, you will find more uses for it other than just your AB. This is just my opinion, I just dont want to see someone go down the same dead end road that I have already traveled. Or give it a try, you might have better luck than I did. you can always return it. Good luck, John:yay:
  3. I layed it on thick enough that it took alot longer than normal to set up with my heat gun. I'll try a practice piece this weekend and lay it on even heavier and see what happens. I'm sure I could lay it on thicker and not get any runs. I would like to get this figured out, firetiger is a real popular color for 1 of the local musky lakes around here and I get alot of requests for it. I put 26 Musky in the net and lost over 30 more on that lake this year, all but 1 was on firetiger and believe me I do try other colors. One strange thing I've noticed with all my fluro's in 2 different brands is some of the paint that sticks to the lid of my gravity feed brush seems to turn into vinal when it's starting to set up. It peels of no problem but it seems strange, none of my other paints do this. I can assure you the paint is mixed up real well, I shake up all my paints until my wrist hurts. I'm going to check out a new local hobie store this weekend for some different paints. I was in there once and they had about 8 different brands of water based paints. They were way over priced but for just fluro's it might be worth a couple extra bucks. John
  4. I finally got around to reshooting my bait. I sprayed it with c-tex opaque yellow first. I couldnt get the true fluro yellow to come out over the base yellow even after 6 coats. It doesnt look to bad, I am going to leave it the way it is. Next time I'll try a lighter yellow or go back to base white. I guess it's just the nature of the paint. John:?
  5. Just curious what color you decided to go with? John
  6. After a long discusion with my wife about shooting a 2" hole through a brick wall I decided a 20" 5 speed fan would be the best choice for filtering over spray. My boss gave me some filters from our spray booth at work. It seems to work really well, I sprayed an entire cup full of paint into the filter and nothing got through to the fan blades. It definatley picks up the overspray without a problem. Thanks for your input, I realize venting outside would obviously be the best option, but like I said it's not an option. Thanks, John
  7. I know this subject has been done to death but I'm going to ask anyway. I did a search and had some of my questions answered. I have a booth, 48" wide, 36" tall, and 30" deep. I spray 100% water based paints no exceptions, I have a gas furnace and water heater within 15 feet of me, flamables are not an option. I've been spraying in it for a year and always wear a resporator so I didnt feel exhausting it was an issue. But my 5 year old son always wants to be in the workshop with Dad especially when I'm painting, I want him to be safe, I dont let him stand to close and make him wear a paper mask (nothing else will fit his small face) but i'm afraid it isnt enough. Hears my plan, I'm looking for opinions if you think it's a good idea. I have a twin window fan that has cleared a bathroom of drywall sanding dust in about 5 minutes. I want to cut a hole in the lower back of the booth level to the bottom and mount the fan to the back of the booth. I would mount 2 furnace style filters in front of the fan inside the booth. Most of my spray would be directed directly into the filters and I'm confidant the majority of the rest would also get sucked up. Will these filters pick up the paint or will it pass right through them into the fan blades then get dispursed around the shop making the problem worse than before? Venting outside is not an option, I have glassblock windows and brick exterior. Is all of this even necessary? It appears most overspray settles on the bottom of the booth rather quickly but i might be wrong. Sorry to be so long winded:yawn:, just wanted to be clear of my situation. Any opinions welcome, John
  8. Folk art paints are not exactly designed to go through an air brush. I do use a couple of them because the color right from the bottle is perfect and I dont need to mix and match. You will need to thin them alot, windex does work well. I used the Folk art pearl once in my bottom feed gun, it took me forever to get the little pearls to clear out while cleaning, the Folk art metalics are even worse. I wont be using either ever again. These paints are not milled as thin as real airbrush paints. I dont use a ratio for mixing, I keep adding windex and mixing until I get the consistency I'm looking for. Some people say the consistency of milk, I tend to run it a hair thicker depending what I'm doing. This all comes from experience, I've been spraying for 2 years and I'm still learning. I mix a little more than I plan on using then dump the extra. I sprayed with a bottom feed for about 2 months with alot of frustration, then bought an Iwata gravity feed by the recomendation by almost everyone on this site. I have not used my bottom feed since nor will I ever again. The gravity feed is so much easier to clean and sprays 100% better. If you really get into painting I highly recomend switching. As far as what tip is better someone else will have to answere that one for you. Hope this helps, John:twocents:
  9. If you really want to save the eyes that are on the bait cover them with blue painters tape and trim around them with an exacto knife. I alaways heat set my C-tex or any water based paints with a heat gun or hairdryer, you can add the next coat right away. You shouldnt have to thin C-tex at all, spray right out of the bottle. Just make sure you shake the crap out of it. As far as clean up I run water through the gun then windex, keep doing it until clear liquid comes out and you are confidant the paint has been cleared. If this is your first time I highly recomend practicing on something you wont mind screwing up. Have fun, John
  10. I also found jannsnetcraft and barlows. Barlows had a great price but eyes are nickle plated brass and .072 wire. I'm thinking these are to lite for musky. I want to cut cost not corners. Does anyone have an opinion on these that could change my mind? John
  11. I did a search on this topic and found out about Stamina and Hagens. So far Hagens had the best price at $140.00 per 1000 in the .092 wire x 1 1/8 stem in stainless. I'm currently paying $180.00 per 1000 from a local tackle supply store. Does anyone have a contact I could check out that might be even cheaper? Thanks, John
  12. I've had great success with orange tiger in that water color. Firetiger or other bright colrs would be my second choice. Pearl copper and yellow sounds interesting, I might have to try shooting that. Thanks for the tip Woodie:yay:
  13. I'll try shooting the fluro over a similar color opaque this weekend, that sounds like it might work. If not it might create a cool new looking shade of color. Thanks for everyone's opinion, I will post my results. John;)
  14. I sprayed a couple firetiger baits tonight and I'm wondering if anyone is having the same problems with coverage as I am. For starters I sprayed the baits flat white, then floro yellow, floro green, floro orange throat and belly, then black stripes. I tried C-tex and neon Apple Barrels paints thinned with Windex. The c-tex wouldnt cover completly in the yellow or green no matter how many coats I applied, the AB did cover but took a ton of coats, I'm guessing 6 for yellow and maybe up to 9 for green. I know the paint wasnt to thin, I didnt even thin the c-tex and tried running the Ab so thick it wouldnt spray. Am I doing something wrong or is this just the nature of floro paint? Thanks, John Did I mention the cat jumped into my spray booth nocking my airbrush out of my hand which was just filled with floro green paint, after which I dropped my wet bait on the floor. A little yellow and orange and the wife will have a firetiger cat.
  15. What show and channel was this on. I'll have to set the Dvr.
  16. Ive been reading the posts on this and it really has the gears in my head turning. Is pvc board available at Menards, Home Depot or Lowes or do I need to go to a specialty store? Last spring my boss added a raised casting deck to the bow of his boat using something similar to this but it was hollow inside. He did mention they had a solid version available but he wanted to keep the weight down. Both types he looked at had alot of texture to the sides and was a brownish orange in color. I'm not sure if this is the same stuff you guys are talking about here. He purchased it at Menards. Also, can pvc board be turned in a wood laithe or is that asking for an autoeject to the face. Thanks, John
  17. I did a search and dint come up with any answeres. I use Apple barrel paints and thin with Windex. Has anyone tried mixing a larger batch and save it? Does it keep if you mix it up well a few weeks later? I was thinking of mixing batch in a film container thinned down to save time in the near future but was wodering if someone already went down this road with bad results. Thanks in advance for any opinions. John:?
  18. I went their today and bought the last 5 they had at $2.00 each. I didnt think about it until I read this post, this was the only Devcon product they had left. My local hardware store has it for $5.95 a tube. I wish I could find it in a larger container locally. I dont use it for clear coating, just screw eyes and lips so I should be good for a while. if anyone knows where to buy it in 9oz containers please post the link. Thanks, John
  19. That guy stole my idea. I made one of those in college, didnt use it for painting though.
  20. Bill did not refer to her as Monica, she was his "Little Humidor". John:whistle:
  21. I ordered the Iwata CR today from Dixie Art, I will let you know how it works. Thanks for your opinions, John
  22. I have been using a Binks bottom feed since I started spraying, the better I get with it the more I hate it . I am sick of fighting with this brush when trying to do any kind of detail. After searching everything I could find on this sight I have it narrowed down to 2 brushes and would like some opinions. I am thinking either an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS or a Revolution CR. Is the Eclipse worth the extra $45.00? I see you can get a .35 or .5 mm tip on the Eclipse, is there any other difference between the 2 brushes? I use some Ctex paint but mostly spray Apple Barrel and sometimes even cheaper stuff from Michaels thinned with Windex, can I still get away with these paints with an Iwata gravity feed gun? Especially if I go with the Eclipse with a .35mm tip. Thanks in advance for your help, John
  23. strictly esox

    etex

    Menards has it for $17.95, you get a 32oz bottle of hardener and a 32oz bottle of resin. John
  24. I have always used Etex to clear coat my Musky baits, I've never tried Devcon 2T but was thinking about it. How does the Devcon hold up to Musky teeth and hook rash compared to Etex? Is Devcon available in larger sizes, I can only find it in the syringes? I have no complaints about Etex but it sure would be nice not to have to turn the baits for 18+ hours . Any other pros or cons? I searched this site for hours and learned alot about both products, just wondered what other Musky guys had for an opinion. Thanks, John:teef:
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