jamie

Mark Ive learned alot from taking an old trap in the tackle box apart. Ive quit trying to guess anymore and I just start cutting.

Never worked with pvc but I do make alot of musky gliders and found maple or oak to be the wood that I like best. I found that alot of lead in more bouyant wood kills some of the action, just like when you over weight a crank.One thing that I found is longer the bait the wider it needs to be. shapes of the glider also is a key to making a good glide bait.Certain shapes causes different glides( meaning a long glide vs a short glide).So your favorite bait in your box glides a certain way for a reason so start there look at the shape and how it glides. Notice length and how thick a bait is and line tie on the bait. The bait should have a slow sink( I like like near neutral bouyancy ) I would stick with more dense woods to start off but like I said Ive never used pvc so thats a subject that I know nothing about.

Husky its really no better on cable . The closer it gets to hunting season the more hunting shows are on.

My best advise is to practise on some cardboard before spraying the bait to master the final stripe. This will save your blood pressure from raising too high.

Let me know if it worked out for you.

Jr made one also , very nice bait.

Thankyou Smokeyfor the name. And I think this was a great bait also

have you tried holding the brush a little closer to the bait. 8 inchs is too far back for fine lines.Ive never used this brush before and is your paints airbrush paints.And Im not sure by what you mean by scattering is it spitting paint ? There are some nice learning vids on youtube check them out.

try T-ing your hooks. If the hooks are resting on the side of your bait and sticking this should work.

There was another guy who made a flounder swimbait about 6 months or so ago( hell it could of been a year ago, things are starting to blend together now:sauced:)I cant remember the fellows name off hand. It swam very well and there was a poolside video. now this is going to bother me, I hate when I cant remember a baitmakers name. It was the first of the flounder swimbaits that I can remember seeing( maybe not the first one made but the first one that ive seen).Maybe someone can remember this baitmakers name.

I use a center line and I also mark a line on the top and side of the bait to show what I need to trim off, that way you will trimm the same amount of wood off each side of your bait. This helps when making smaller cranks because every mistake magnifys a negetive action to the bait when dealing with smaller baits. Each side of the bait should be a mirror to the other side,The larger the bait bait the more you can get away with as far as imperfections.

Clemmy, I always use a bib that I insert while painting. A peice of masking tape on the bib will wedge the lip in place. I would hate to take the time painting to only cut a bad lip angle at the end. I guess it would really matter depending on how you seal your baits.

I always cut my lip slots while the wood is still square, before I even cut the bait out. This way your lip sot will be square. For myself its easier than trying to cut out after you round the bait over and miscut with a bad angle.

Im with BobP.

Bass champ there is a PM sent, On the brighter side after you figure things out you can cast baits in a matter of minutes.

Be sure to wear a dust mask when sanding balsa

Go to the members tuts and Pete has two different tuts on bending lexan.

I was just thinking that it would be nice to have a lure swap section added to the forum. This could be a place where you could trade baits with other builders . Each person could pay for there own shipping( I would pay to mail my bait to you and you pay to mail your bait to me)You could maybe post a pic of a bait and see if anyone would swap baits with you. What do you guys think , is this a good idea and would this be possiable?

Im with bob go with the foil, its as close as you will get to chrome and easy to do.

Go to the members tuts and look up petes tut on through wire construction. there is alot of good info on building a musky crank. It covers through wire and the lip cut with great pics as well as a walk through of the build.

Happy birthday Jerry

You can buy color to add to the mix. There are several color options.

John if you find out let me know because mine is already full.

Pete I think if I was going to try to reposition the weight I would go for less holes and go alittle deeper in the bait and try not to go past the center of gravity. put the weight from the bottom of the bait to almost center gravity with less holes ( like a lead dowel plug to fill the hole). This might work and it might not

That shad pattern is a great shape for gliders.A friend of mine makes a nice 4 inch shad glider made from 1/2 inch oak board from an old pallet he found at work.One thing to remember is longer the bait the wider the bait needs to be. The seven inch bait you were talking of would work with a 3/4 inch board. I like a sharp nose on my gliders it helps the water flow around the bait. Think of it like a v-hull boat if you are pulling nose first it slips throught he water with little effort. Now if you have a blunt nosed bait it like trying to drag the boat backwards, There is a lot more drag and water will not flow easily around the shape of the transom( you can still get it where it needs to go but there is alot more work involved).Im not saying a blunt nosed bait wont glide but there is more work involved on the bait to make it work.Mark as far as weighting a glider you have to play with the weight position to get a horizontal or flat lay in the water, the shape determines where the lead goes.And as far as a silver I just love foil on gliders thats just my . Gliders should slip through the water column gracefully with little effort( once again this is all just my opinion, Im sure someone will think different)