scottishghillie

I agree with you diemai, he is not worth the trouble. Hopefully a mod will come along and delete this thread before too much longer.

the lure looked good before it was deleted by Spike whose job it is on here to do that. There is rules to follow, I also fell foul to them before. No need to go elsewhere just post the pic in to the gallery and then link to it in your posting.

"Herd to say what you need to do differently without hearing what you're doing now first" from "clamboni" Read what the guy said. "if i want black scales. i need to do a dark basecoat then go light. instead of doing all my colors then putting the mesh over it and painting the whole thing black." Basically you need to think out what colour you want the lines that make the scale shape want to be, then that is your first coat. Next layer is your main lure colours. Third layer is any blending for top or bottom of lure. for example for a simple minnow 1 paint the whole lure black 2 dry, then shoot silver over mesh 3 dry 4 top coat very simpe very easy very effective Job done.

look at wild tropical fish, the spot is more enlarged and noticable than the real eye. might be worth doing the same.

looks good but you might get the pictures deleted from this thread. top tip is to post the pic in the gallery and then post a link to it in a thread here. keeps everyone happy then and keep up the good work

Merry Christmas to you all and a prosperous New Year and I hope you all get the goodies that you deserve.

Sounds good. I wonder if there would be a demand for a clear plastic coating that could be dipped rather than a 2 part epoxy system that needs brushing on. I used a great product in Italy but havent found anything similar over here in the States yet. It was recommended for use on railings and decking. I loved the way it would totally seal the bait in plastic which made it totally waterproof. The real plus was that the longer its left the harder it got but not brittle.

Great find I dont know how many Mod's are on this site but they dont seem to be doing their jobs effectively. Anybody know how to become a Mod?

Hi there I was living in Italy for a while and I also couldnt find(in resonable quantity) a decentepoxy but what I did find was a plastic coating for fences and pavements etc. Came in a 1 litre metal pot and it cleared to a nice clear shiny semi hard finish, drip free after about 10 minutes and full hard in 24 hours. Check out the few lures I have posted in the gallery. I just dipped the finished lures or between paint layers. Trial and error was required to see which paints I could shot over the platic coat. The tub itself was red in colour and all instructions were in Italian but was sold next to the boat epoxys and fibreglass repair kits. The outlet was Leroy Merlin (if they are in Holland). I am now looking for the same osrt of product here in the States as I really liked working with it and far more economical than epoxy. I hope may help you out to widen your search.

Sure, make a lure, balance it, through drilled then cut in to sections, line threaded through a section and a bead at a time. Then line tied off to atreble hook etc. Should work JMNO

there is a tutorial on both subjects

WOW some great responses. SNAX, great looking bait, any feedback on how it produces? The more calories gained for less calories expended would be how a fish would think (if they do indeed think), as well as nearly all other animals (us included). I have read, over the years, that this is how they work. I know when I have been trout fishing in the UK that when they are hitting the pin fry that you wait for a splash of an attack then cast a fly into the distrubance. The trout will then come and mop up the fry damaged, stunned in the initial attack. And with the your fly in there too, more often than not it gets taken. I would have thought that this would be the same for all other fish.

Well strive to make a piece of wood look like a fish, then we try to fish it looking like a dying or weaker fish in the hope that a big hungry fish takes it. Has any one tried to make a lure or even paint one up to look like a distressed bait fish. Example of what i'm meaning is to paint the lure sideways, eyes on top and bottom of the lure and the pattern on the sides. Any thoughts?

Kim , does that mean you will be looking in to getting various plastic bodies as an addition to your supplies? Think there is a demand for them. Especially some of the more unusual shapes and designs.

What I do is paint a sheet of paper the colour I want the eyes to be then use a drill bit to dip in black paint to add the pupil. Once all dry I then dip the sheet in liquid plastic. After that drys I use a hole punch and punch out the eye. Neat circle every time and I can vary where the pupil is for a different look. Then superglue the eye on to the lure. Job done.

You could use bungee cords, you know what you use to lash down luggage etc. they come in all different diameters with a nice hook already attached. Another thought is the elastic cord used with tentpoles. Just a couple of ideas.

To add a belly swivel I would suggest running a through wire. Drill the lure lengthwise. Then drill the hole for the swivel which must be tight to grip the widest part of it and thread the wire though from one end to other ensuring that you pass the wire through the top swivel eye and then wrap your wire at the back end of the lure to give you your back eye for attaching your hooks. You normal process of sealing, painting and topcoating should be enough to keep the swivel in place but it should still be mobile. You could also add a grommet around the swivel which might keep the paint and epoxy away from it enabling it to keep turning smoothly. Hope this makes sense.

It would be if you were selling it as one of the original makers lure. Which it no longer is. You would have to say that it is a custom paint finish on a well known makers lure. JMO though.

The clear plastic you get on blister packs might work, for a solid wing. For a none solid one, a wire frame with fine mesh stretched over it might work, or even tissue paper (like in model aircraft design). Whatever you use would like to see a picture of the finished lure.

Nice looking blank. Now for the fun part. 1. Find the centre line of the blanks and mark it with a pencil or marker. 2. Install both front and rear eyes. These can either be screw in ones pre-made and bought, or thin stainless steel wire made and fixed in to a hole drilled at either end and secured with a good glue or epoxy, or a third option is to through wire the lure. This means drilling a hole all the way through the lure front to back and then running the same stainless wire though and then securing at the rear with wraps. There is plenty of advice here one how to do all of the above. 3. Seal the wood. Again plenty of info here on how to do that. 4. Once sealing layer is dryed, now do the float test. For a popper to work well you need the face to sit this way . You lure as it is will sit this way / . Once you have confirmed this, on the centre line drill a small hole. This you need to then refill with ballast weight. Lead is the most common metal used for that. A couple of small splitshot will more then likely be all you need to ensure the lure sits the right way up. Hammer the shot in to the hole. You may need to use a nail or screwdriver to drive the lead all the way in to hole and to ensure its just under the level of the surrounding wood. Once you have done this, all you then need to do is let the lure dry out, seeing as it has been in water. Once dry fill the hole with either wood glue, epoxy or similar. 5. When filling material is dry get the sand paper back on it and smooth the filling down to make a nice smooth lure. 6. The fun part... Painting. Again there is lots of info on the board on this. Also look through the gallery for suggestions. 7. Once the paint scheme has been applied, or re-applied several times if your like me and screw up sometimes, all that is left is topcoating the lure. Again search the boards here. Lots of great info on all sorts of products that are used to protect the paintwork and the lure from teeth (hopefully) rocks (if your unlucky) and the water. As to how it works in water, when retrieved it should spit water forward from the cup. This is what causes the commotion and hopefully results in a good take from your target species. Additionally, you will probaly find that it will send out a nice wake, this also is a good thing when fishing surface lures. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress. Hope this has helped.

I second that warning. If I had only been on here when it was posted I would have saved myself some time as I was painting some that will now need sanding back and repainting. Ah well live and learn I suppose.