Sonny.Barile

This stuff is a waste of money. One dip in the water and your lure will be tacky. It also stinks really bad on your lure and it takes a long time to go away. That alone will deter fish from biting.

Here are some more sites for you.... http://www.surpluscenter.com/ http://www.sciplus.com/

If you use a low torque motor and load it up good or severely off balance, you will have more current draw. Drawing too much current makes the motor stall. Also, make sure it is rated for continuos duty and not intermittent. Is the torque rating in inch/lbs or foot/lbs? Are we talking AC or DC?

Mark Wicking could very well be a problem. Im not even sure what will stick to braid. If I cant find anything I will default to some form of mechanically fastening it internal to the body. I have a few ideas to play with if that is the case.

I have a 3 section I started about 2 weeks ago that is only about half way carved (not much time lately). My shot at this is going to be a braided bundle of braided fishing line. About 10 strands of 30lb. Power Pro. This is an idea I had brewing for a while and Im not sure if I can get it anchored well enough or if it will fray during use but I thought I would give it a shot. This was inspired by the Hook hangers made of bundled braid that Shimano has been putting on the Butterfly jigs. They have a wrap on them and I guess if I get fraying I could try the same thing. TO keep it flexible Im thinking plumbers teflon tape? Any thoughts or suggestions on this?

Mark That is a common ballasting tactic in casting. You pour straight resin on the bottom and blended in microballons in the top part. I did it once to make a floating diver (lipless). I tilted the mold and achieved a head down lure. Worked good for a few casts then a big blue stole it. I put hours in to that thing. I said some really bad words that day!

Maybe capping the holes made it even more buoyant by trapping in some air.

onion bags.........Wifes old fish nets...........endless possibilites

There are plenty of great tutorials in there. This one was especially good because he takes you thru the build step by step and has a lot of in process pictures.

Nice work!!!!!!

They are really stiff when you form them. Great for thru wire in a casting as you can be really consistent with forming.

I meant to write HF. "Harbor Freight" I wouldnt reccomend HF airbrushes. They are cheaply made and finicky. I use the HF brush to spray glitter paints because I know these particular paints will clog the heck out of my Badger. I dont mind constantly cleaning the HF model becaue I could always just toss it if it breaks orif I lose any parts. Why I said to not thin in the original bottle is because the craft paints can be on the shelf forever and sometimes have a lot of solids or even a skin of dry paint film on the inside of the bottle. This makes for headaches and constant clogging. I pour the paint in to another jar through a strainer. I havent had any cloggiing issues since I started doing this.

BLO has it's issues too. You are worse off breathing that stuff in. Also, it spontaneously combusts. You have to be carefull with your cleanup rags as they will suddenly go up in flames just sitting there.

Do not reduce a whole bottle or in the paints original bottle. I use apple barrel and Americana paints exclusively. I reduce with water I have stored in a 32 oz jar that has 1 drop of dawn dishwashing liquid dissolved in it. Get a plumbing strainer from Home Depot as stated previously. Use this to pour paint from the original bottle in to your airbrush bottle and thin in that bottle . I have found with craft paint that there is no specific formula for all of the colors, or even between bottles of the same color. Keep at it and you will get the hang of it. Lay off of the baits for a while and just practice thinning and painting using some scrap paper. Add a little water at a time until it is just right. Believe me you will get better. I am now at a point where I can spray glitter paints thru a $5 HB airbrush. Hope this helps.

Dieter The website only listed Eddy Mebel. I figured it had to do with his name. I bucket tested my Heiddy with hooks and it took 3/8 oz of lead to get it to sink with just the very top surface out of the water. Once I add paint, topcoat, and leader, it should produce a slow sink rate. I will try to video a water test after I compete the finish. Thank you for your help.

dieter Thank you for your help. I began building a Heiddy yesterday. I have the body done with screw eyes epoxied in. Today I put a coat of sealer on and tomorrow I will try a bucket test with hooks and some lead. Regards Sonny

wood...you keep saying "we". Are you a twin? LOL

I saw this in the tutorial. Click on the colored words "swimbait" http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/15916-pvc-trim-board-shad-swimbait/