Net Man
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Everything posted by Net Man
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Thanks Vodkaman
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I have been trying to find a MSDS sheet on Etex. Does anyone know where I can find it? Thanks
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I would like to buy one or two. How much?? -
I have been doing some research on top coats. This is one that looks promising. Just wondering what you guys think??? http://www.mcucoatings.com/en/marine-coatings
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Can you still get the original DN?? I look at DN's site and they only show on top coat.
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White Base: Pearls, Irredescents, Transparents, yellow, orange, green, and your light colors Colors like red or darker blues don't really matter that much. I always use white for my base. When you use white you are getting the true hue of the color.
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Where can I get a deep little N blank. I have looked at Jann's and Barlow's and they have one that looks close but I am not sure if anyone has compared them. I think Jann's calls it a 4" Deep Diver.
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I will take a picture of it today and post it.
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I have dipped this bait in sealer 4 times waiting a day between each dip. I have not taken it apart because I am not sure how the pins come out. I guess I can try it and see. Thanks for your advice. Maybe letting it soak is the key.
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I know it has been on here before but I need some help. I am painting a Triple Trout Swim bait for a buddy. It is a wooden bait. I am having problems with the paint cracking. The bait was sealed but still cracks. Why is this happening and what can I do to fix it. Thanks,
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I have bought split rings from Jann's, Stamina, and Barlow's. I buy the stainless steel rings. I like using size 1 on jerkbaits and small cranks. None of these are strong enough. They stretch when you catch a big fish. Where can I get a small size that won't stretch???
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I have read on here many times about top coats and what is better and all of that. I started using automotive clear and it worked great but did not have the depth to it like D2T. So than I used D2T and found that it would yellow over time. Now I use the D2T and spray one coat of automotive clear over it to keep it from yellowing over time. Does anyone know what Tim Hughes or Dale Sellers are using? These guys baits look great and hold up well.
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Where can you buy lucky craft RC 1.5 knock off's?
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It is a Speed Trap. I used one big stencil to do it. Luhr Jenson Speed Trap, I believe. Did you use just one stencil repeatedly for each segment or is it all one big stencil? -
I use mylar. You can buy it at any hobby or craft store. It is clear and about .005" thick. It is easy to cut or burn and very flexible. You get about 50 sheets in a pack and will be set for years. I love it.
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Sorry about that. I guess I forgot to attach it.
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Here is the color that I need to copy. I wanted to know if any of you have painted this color before? I have most of the colors but wondering what was the best way to approach it. The tuff part will be getting the gold accents right. Let me know what you think. Thanks
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I got the DVD to see what it was like. I have been painting for about 5 years. I bought the DVD to see how someone else paints. I found some of it that was good. He made some good points about painting and shading. I thought the drying wheel was cool too. But all in all it was stuff that I already know. It is well worth it for the beginner.
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Bruce, This is a good question to ask. I can remember asking this once before. You will find that many of the guys here do not strip the bait down. Scuff it with 320 to 400 grit sand papper. If it is wood than seal it and prime and paint. I used to strip the baits down and paint from the plastic up. It takes a ton of time and is not worth it in the long run. So my advice to you is to scuff them and paint away.
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Pete, It's the seasoned guys like you and Rayburn that get the props. Us young guys are just trying to follow the foot steps that you guys have made. Rayburn has been a big help to me.
